[G36 Picture Thread]

Could you post a pic? I wonder what it looks like with an ELCAN.

 

page 43 of this thread

 

[G36 Picture Thread]

Wonder if my Elcan will look ok on the G36c.

 

A ELCAN looks great on a G36C, but looks better on the K. I have a ELCAN for all 5 of my G36 rifles, and absoultely love them.

 

[G36 Picture Thread]

2) can I get a pic of a K with a 6 hole hand guard on it?

cheers,

KM

 

I posted a photo of my K with a 6 hole forend back on page 43 of this thread. It also has the bipod, so if give a pretty good idea how much of the K flash suppressor is hidden.

[G36 Picture Thread]

A thing to do to minimize the poor eye relief issue with the scope is to keep the "c" stock, instead of the "K" or "E". Just like Devilhunter did it seems.

 

I have almost every replica G36 scope, and I have had eye relief issuse with all of them. It didnt matter what length of shoulder stock I was using. I don't have a real deal hensolt so I can't speak to that, but the replica is a piece of ######. As shown below, I use a replica ELCAN. It is the only scope I have found that I can use with goggles. The 80.00 price can't be beat. The reticule is the 3 post design, and it has 4x magnification. I can watch the plastic fly to the target.

 

 

 

 

[G36 Picture Thread]

Or just buy the JG one.

 

http://www.rsov.com/index.php?target=produ...product_id=2883

 

As seen on the newest line of JG G36's.

 

 

This is NOT a JG handle. It is a ACM G36 handle. Rest assured these are not JG products. They come in an unmarked ziploc bag. I made the mistake of ordering one from RSOV. Great service as usual, but the product itself is an epic failure. Again, this is NOT the fault of RSOV. I was attempting to mount it on a JG G36K that came with a C scope rail. This was before the release of the JG G36K with scoped carry handle. BTW, the scoped handles on the newest JG G36 rifles is hard plastic, just like the body and forends. They are not the rubbery ###### that this thing is made of.

 

Handle was warped as bad as in the above linked photo. It absolutly wouldnt fit no matter what I tried. Scope unit itself almost fell out of the housing even with modest rubber mallet taps. Tremendous amounts of parting flash everywhere. The material is NOT hard plastic that can be trimmed. It is soft and rubbery, so trimming the flash wasnt easy. I finally managed to get the thing on the gun, and found it was too short in the front. There was a 1/8th inch gap in the back between the unit itself and the gun.

 

I did some measuring and the channels that the gun is supposed to slide into are too shallow. This explains the gap between the handle and the gun. Milling deeper channels might be possible, but due to the softness of the material will be messy. If you have a dremel, it would be possible to mill everything deeper by hand, but the effort really isnt worth it. In the end, the plastics are still 2 seperate materials, the color wont match (paint it I guess) and the optics are un usable with goggles.

 

In this instance, you get what you pay for. The only reason mine isnt in the bottom of a landfill is becasue I can use the optics themselves for another project.

 

If you really want the little rail on the back, find a seperate rail, cut it to length, and add it to a scoped handle.

[review of the Ares amp dsr-1]

Well, I recieved my DSR-1 this afternoon. I am impressed with the build quality, but the performance leaves much to be desired.

 

I tested mine in the basement with .20 and my Speeder 2000 chrono. The best reading I got was 417fps. Most readings were in the high 290s which is pretty crappy. I tried both magazines, and also tried both propane and green gas (I know, nearly the same thing). Both were epic failures.

 

As this is my first gas sniper rifle, I am at a lose as to what to do to increase performance. I lubed the bolt, checked the nozzle. Everything seems fine. I didnt see anything "jump" out at me. The "pcs" on the mags has the spacer washer in place, so none of the airflow is restricted. I didnt find any broken Orings on the magazines themselves. I dont have the proper tools to remove the valves so I didnt try.

 

This weekend Ill be trying again with a different chrono, as mine you have to shoot through a nozzle to get the reading. If the weapon isnt properly aligned this can give poor results, but I tried several different methods and none were able to record a high reading. Thus I am slightly disgruntled.

[review of the Ares amp dsr-1]

How is the Star AW-338 Sniper Rifle ? Is it a decent rifle?

 

I do not own one of the Star AW-338 rifles. The DSR-1 is my first foray into gas sniper rifles, so I am expecting good things from it for the price I paid.

 

[review of the Ares amp dsr-1]

usmcCorps- Since the manual PDF circulating about clears says Star on, I am guessing it is safe to say they are the manufacturers? Or is ARES the original manufacturer and Star made the manual? Correct me if I am incorrect. I am wondering if spare/replacement parts will be easy to come by. Since it uses the same gas system (at least it would seem) as the Star AWP 338 rifle, might there be some part interchangability?

 

I guess that we DSR-1 owners hopefully wont need to be replacing anything on them soon, as this may or may not be a limited production run.

 

I have not recieved my rifle yet, but it has made it stateside so I am confident Ill have it either today or tomorrow.

[Flecktarn Pictures]

Can't you just put the hydration bladder inside the back pocket?

Works for me.

 

*Slaps forehead* I didnt even know there was a back pocket there. After seeing the photo you posted I took a look again at my vest and sure enough!!

 

I thank you good sir. Saved me a bunch of cash.

[Flecktarn Pictures]

I have been trying for a while to find a hydration system that will attach to my IDZ vest. The vest was purchased from Flecktarn.uk. I found this which is promising because it comes in fleck, but I'm not sure if the webbing is compatable.

 

I would appreciate any input/help/suggestions that you fellow fleck users can provide.