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cocofr69

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Everything posted by cocofr69

  1. @ Nazio: you can get a remplacement outer casing for your mag: http://www.tacticalquartermaster.co.uk/cat...6925981e00b4382 i had this problem, look at the upper side of the square hole on the side of the mag, it's worn because the outer casing is not made of steel, it's too soft. I used a flat screwdriver inserted in that hole to spread a little bit the upper side and it worked fine.
  2. Right, Tangman just do this: and use some thread lock ( @Eliminator vi, j'ai compris où on met le frein filet )
  3. http://www.youtube.com/user/Latparts
  4. Two parts can be broken to cause a auto fire only, the disconnector or the hammer: http://www.airsoftbuddy.com/index_eproduct...products_id=377 http://www.airsoftbuddy.com/index_eproduct...products_id=376
  5. The pins you see from the external are fake, to access the #127 you have to take out the trigger group.
  6. Thanks In fact, the barrel is a regular AEG inner barrel, it's a drop in for the bucking and the barrel, no modification needed. You're right, i'm using Solidworks.
  7. The barrel is held by the usual clip used with AEG: About the nub, i tried to make the same that on the VSR, because The chief said it was the better for accuracy , i tried to find pictures of VSR's hopup and i found this: so i did this: @ The chief: do you think that it's the kind of solid H nub used in the VSR or must i modify it to use a AEG nub ? For the adjustement, it's the same nut as the original HU wich is used to push the arm, this allows to make a drop in hop-up without modifying the bolt or the receiver. To push the arm, there is a new part
  8. Hi all, i have think about what could be a hop-up for the WE that uses a regular AEG barrel and bucking: IT'S POSSIBLE !! It needs three new parts, and to modify two existing parts, #111 and #114. So the question is.... is there anybody out there who can machined that parts ? i can give a complete set of blueprints I'm looking by my side to find a another place to make it, i already have one but they are way too expensive.
  9. Hi there today, i have made the test of removing the rubber #118 and shoot a auto 4-5 BBs burst to see what happens, and this is the result: the BB doesn't fall, it is firmly held by #117. Then, i disassembled the parts to try to mesure the exact position of the BB in the #117, as you can see i have take out all the parts of the hop-up before testing: With a lot of care, i mesured the position of the BB in the #117: and i modified the CAD model: So the difference between the position of the BB after manually cooking and after a burst i
  10. Thanks Otto you're right, we see the ridge: in the 3D model: and in the split view: But the BB is not held by the zone before the ridge, but by the zone after it: The zone A is too wide, with a diameter of 6.2mm, to hold the BB, it's the zone B, after the ridge, wich hold the BB. But if the zone B is full of silicone, it will not hold the BB (before taking the pictures, i have clean out the barrel and #117), and then it will be the green dot that will hold the BB, or not, just like you said. The point is to avoid the green rubber #118 to have to
  11. Hi guys here is my 2 cents about the function of the part #117. I have mesured and drawn the parts of the hop-up : Assemblage_Hopup_WE.PDF - 1.5 Mb On the "detail 1", you can see the position of the BB according to the size of the different parts, it's about 1.5mm away from the green rubber on the gen 1 hop-up, it holds tight in the #117 rubber. To confirm that, i took a picture of the BB after cooking manually, and slowly, the gun: and then, the same view on the 3D model: It seems to be at the correct position on the blueprint... Then, i fired a b
  12. +1 We don't need new bodies by now, we need steel parts ! More peoples experiments trigger group issues every day, the trigger parts are made of pot metal, here is what we really need: -steel #54 -steel #57 -steel hammer -redesigned steel #59 -stronger firing pin's spring
  13. Hello all According to the idea of Renegadecow, here is the shape of a improved part #59: I'm going to see if i can make it laser cut and how much it will cost for a stainless steel part.
  14. This is a typical part #117 problem. Disassemble your hop-up, check and clean the part #117, re-assemble the hop-up and check that it hold correctly the BB (no need to put the HU chamber back in the body and outer barrel to check). If it's not holding the BB, then you will have to change the #117.
  15. The same happened to me with a STAR M16A3 body, since that i use a pair of pliers too instead of the hammer for that kind of pins.
  16. Thanks Ibico, it's a wonderfull job @ Lupus: really hope to see soon your "evil black rifle" pictures
  17. Hummmm, good choice, i like this stock too since i have tried one on my M4. You have a beautiful black rifle ! About the part that cause you your little problem, it would be a real good thing to have it in spare, alone not with all the trigger group, since it's very easy to forgot to switch to semi before closing the upper, i was near to do it too just after i had the gun.
  18. Some new parts added to AB listing, with not less than 3 new charging handles : a new version of the normal one http://www.airsoftbuddy.com/index_eproduct...products_id=188 a steel version http://www.airsoftbuddy.com/index_eproduct...products_id=241 a 7075 aluminium version http://www.airsoftbuddy.com/index_eproduct...products_id=240 and some others : the new part made to solve the #122 issue http://www.airsoftbuddy.com/index_eproduct...products_id=237 the KAC trigger guard http://www.airsoftbuddy.com/index_eproduct...products_id=238
  19. Just like Lordelpus said, it's a rebranded Dboys: http://www.gunnerairsoft.com/catalog/produ...roducts_id=1349 Hope you can cancel your order since the price is about 2.5 times less on gunner...
  20. Hi guys here is the part we need to solve the charging handle issue, a new bolt key that allows the charging handle to grab it and not "bend" while grabbing the bolt, and allows to use a RS CH without modding it :
  21. Because the WA grip is not a RS one... the RS grip has a hole where a spring and a knob fit to make the selector click, the WA doesn't.
  22. Yes, it is it's the complete front set from a M16A3 STAR. @ Chris: it's a custom made, i have take a outer barrel from one of my AEG to make it modified. There is no website where to order one, but i will order a pack of outer barrel to make them modified if i have enough pre-order here by MP.
  23. Hi guys here are the first pictures of a WE M4 with a M16A2 front set the modified outer barrel the gun complete The next step is to install a RS A2 stock. I can order a pack of outer barrel and make them modified, price would be 140$ each and delay 2 weeks before shipping.
  24. Kai, this rubber part is just behind the inner barrel, inside the part 111, you can see it on this picture : the brass ring you have lost is not a problem.
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