Megalomaniac

Hatchet, as I stated a few pages back, reducing reistantance will increase all aspects of motor performance.

R-Hops are fickle installation process, I wouldn't rule them out based on one possibly bad install.

I was actually thinking Chaoli since a PTW style motor appeared on the Chaoli website, if that is the case then they may be pretty quality, well at least the windings, of course they will still use bits of odd bric a brac as magnets...

Could any get detailed pictures of the motor? I'm trying to see if it matches who I think the motor OEM is...

Richard, can we get some info on the specs of the trigger system? As far as deans go, compared to Tamiya you get lower resistance per connector by very much. Lower resistance results in less arcing in a standard trigger, faster motor speed, and higher torque output, reducing resistance is a great way to improve the performance of the gun.

If they had pushed sample models out to a small range of testers and took advice, a lot of the backlash could have been avoided, and maybe we'd have a better product. I'd call that a win/win.

No matter who the OEM is a bad design is a bad design. Even with the best materials and machine work a bad design is still doomed. But to me as a somewhat knowledgable tech the design screams out ARES based which means ambitious but rubbish.

Berggy, your point #4 is moot, J bloody G throws half decent basic FETs in the Enhanced line which are only slightly more expensive, at a manufacturing level add a MOSFET is not at all expensive, and micro-switches are not a great improvement over contacts in anything but feel, most used are woefully under-rated or prone to vibrating apart when firing. As is point #1 If the tabs come broken from the factory I can't see them being able to stand up to player abuse.

After seeing inside the box I'm really disappointed in the design, wonky BB feed tube, odd motor angle, wasted space, micro-switch with no MOSFET (hell even some JGs come with FETs now), wonky trigger bar design. I don't know why I got my hopes up on yet another disappointing PTS-AEG.

Both use the same barrel so yes, the stock barrel nut/delta ring is a funky design though on all the models.

Cycle completion, isn't a terrible issue, an 11.1 with a torque motor and you cannot out cycle the trigger. PWM based ROF control would be nice. Battery Monitor, I'd rather it just have the option to integrate a Project Wolfdragon monitor board. Ideally an ultra-small board with nice solid FETs and simple reliable switch-gear, would do the trick. I'm hesitant to use Microswitches in a recoil gearbox, considering ARES boxes with them have issues with vibrations from just the motor and piston.

The only part I'm not a fan of is the micro switch itself, fiddley and easily broken in a lot of applications, was generally a common problem and the only real drawback of both the ASCU and AWS units, I haven't kept up with the BTC though. But why not ask Terry (Extreme-Fire) about his experiments with hall-effect sensors, no mechanical parts to fail.

Which PEQ and what size battery is that? Sticking with XT60 or converting to Deans?

Well the kit doesn't come with a new barrel nut, so if the rail fits over the 416's barrel nut, and the tab fits or is close enough to be fitted into the notch on the TM upper, then it should fit.

Hopefully we can just order the bits direct from TM, if anyone in Japan can score me a set or two, toss me a PM.

I'm testing mine on an ORGA M120. Prometheus Double Torque Gears EG Hard piston EG Hard piston head (bearings removed, and weight Swiss cheesed) Prometheus Cylinder Head Prometheus Nozzle Systema 6mm bushings Jonzey's MicroFET EG1000M+ (may switch to a Frankentorque) 7.4v 20c 1800mAh brick Standard tech work done, bevel up shimming, Thin Sorbothane (70D) for padding and AOE correction), Radius'd corners, and polished cylinder. Cycles fine in just the lower, going to fully assemble the gun once my new spades come and stress test the gearbox in a cold north-east winter.

I second the Eagle 6 spring, works well.

The armatures in the Chinese magnets are of a poor quality normally, the EG1000 armature is wound for moderate torque and speed using good quality wire. Swapping to good magnets gets you more torque without loosing any speed. Hopefully 2013 is the end of brushed motors in airsoft. As far as 11.1s and recoils, so long as you aren't getting pre-engagement you won't have a problem. I've seen two run on 11.1s, a stock which still ran until the piston stripped and now runs fine on an 7.4, and my SOCOM with torque gears which did not get PE due to lower sector speed.

The improvement is from the upgrade to Neodymium magnets, the bearings just help.

The problem is that the Western market for the TM Recoil line-up is comparably small to the standard V2/V3 Market.

@Pure Silver, the MOSFET prevents you from burning up the stock trigger contacts by reducing them to just a signal wire, not power transfer. @Berrgy, the stock TM EG1000 use regular Ceramic/Ferrite Magnets which are comparably weaker than the Neodymium Magnets, when you fit the good quality TM armature (the part that spins) with good powerful magnets you get a very strong motor. Basically the idea is that you remove the pinion, remove the end-bell (blue plastic cap), slide the TM armature out, I then lock it in a drill chuck and clean up the commutator with 800 grit sand paper and then a s

Because with a Micro-Fet around the size of a set of Deans connectors you can fit a wire-in fet just about anywhere, I'm fitting one up front on my SOCOM and will be fitting one in the stock of my CQBR. I've applied an relatively recent mod (Frankentorquing) to my CQBR and will be doing more of them with my others. I took the stock TM EG1000 Armature, cleaned the comm, and then dropped it into an ACM Neodymium Magnet Motor Can with front and rear bearings (TM uses brass bushings), shimmed the shaft to TM spec end-play, and then bedded the brushes to the comm under low voltage free spin. Th

Honzo they shouldn't be any larger, just a different curvature.

Pinion is a standard type.

Druid not any more, add a MOSFET (micro fet based on an IRL3034 should fit ANYWHERE), and sorbo, AOE, etc.... I ran my SOCOM on Prommy Dual Torques, 11.1 and stock piston with no wear.