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Bagpuss

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Posts posted by Bagpuss

  1. The other option is do as per m14, which is pretty much the same with the exception of shaving down the final tangs to 1.84 mm rather than chopping them off and cutting groves. I sanded mine from 3mm or so to 1.9 mm and that gave me and adjustable range from 260 fps up to about 370 at room temperature, which is fine.

     

    You could try that first then cut down to the linked article if it doesn't suit you.

  2. Cheers They didn't have a high flow in but I got a standard as a spare.

    I ve found with the NPAS and shaving down the nozzle tangs to approx 1.9mm that tphe fps is a little variable, ranging from 290 fps to 340 fps. I though best get a spare in case :) I was hoping with a hihgh flow i could just drop it in with the npas.

    (i don't have a mmilling machine tomget to 1.82mm :) ) The two tangs were 3 mm as standard and i couldn 't get above 220 fps with the npas ( although the chrono did measure the propane exiting at 1438 fps once)

  3. Looks to be a standard gbb pistol hop up rubber. One thing i noticed after re assembly that the feeding end of the rubber doesn't always seat properly in the lip of the chamber. A gentle run around the edge with a small flat bladed screwdriver gets it back to round rather than oval.

  4. woo hoo, cheers guys. This was my method - a bit of cloth over the plastics to provide a bit of a puffef the pour a kettle full of boiling water over the nut.This was then followed by several big doses of " shock unlock" lubricated freeze spray around the area then the gas microsortch on heat gun for 5 minutes. Don't use the naked flame as the freeze spray is ether. Then with a correct sized allen key, sloted in long end in, lay the gun on its back and rotate e nut towards me and give it a big FOAD, but smooth pull. Repeat this process a couple of times and once it moves it comes off with ease.

    A little less threadlock on the reasemble. The barrel was reasinably clean but a good polish out with brasso made it come up a treat. Two slivers of plasti card either side of a black element h nub centralised it lovley, now there is a good range of movemement. As oers have said, the supplied nub is a bit of a beast.

     

     

    I wonder if WE have a bulk load of thread lock that was near its used by date?

  5. bagpuss! just give it some welly mate its not like that fragile cateram of yours :bleh:

    Heh don't you start, swmbo called me at work saying she noticed a scratch on the side of my MR2. She waited until I got home before she told me she had also reversed it into the front wall, spend most of this evening layering up the paint to repair the gouges in the bumper.

    Its a pitty there isn't a spanned to do the job. My c spanner I use for m4 barrel nuts levers on the body and I don't think an angle grinder spanner is quite the same spacing.

  6. Yep, when the hairs on my arm are sizzling i've got it wrong :)

     

    I'm using the heat gun acessory of my butane micro torch with wet cloth on the plastics and running the heat gun up around the barrel. Give that its alloy and hence a good heat dissipator I'll try a preheat with hot/ boiling water to get a bit of initial heat into it.

    I'm aiming with the torch at the knurlled surface around the upper half of the nut, keeping to moving to avoid hot spots. I think I'll have another go this weekend.

     

    Are they using thread lock on the nut or relying on tightening it up so tight that the alloy parts adhere to each other?

     

    I'ts much easier working on car or motor cycle steel nuts, you just weld a blob of metal on to the nut and that usually works enough heat in :)

  7. Thank, i'm turnining it correctly then, but for the love if itm it aint going anywhere. Its almost like there is a locking pin in there. Normally with threads once ther start moving they shouls be fine, but it just rotates my about 1 mm of movement. Its not like i'm some 3 stone weakling either :)

  8. I got my g39 c this week. I've attempter to remove the barrel nut. Tried allen key with extension, some heat with a micro torch on heat gun. I can get about 1 mm movement but that is it. did anyone else find they got a bit of play but bugger all else?

    I'm concerned about rounding off the slots in the barrel nut as its only ally. I also assume its a regular" righty tighty lefty loosey" thread rather than the reverse thread of the flash hider?

  9. After an overhaul, the hop up rubber had a tear in it which wasn't good. I changed the hop up rubber and put a spare H bucking in whilst I was at it. That gave be an extra 10 meters of range with little effort. I've since put in the upgraded stainless nozzle, bearing spring guide & cylinder head along with a gaurder vented piston head and a systema cylinder ( I don't like the non vented head that comes as standard).

     

    With all this I still only seems to get about 285 fps (after a few mags bedding in). I put a Mad Bull M110 in and it made no difference (but then it only gave 310 fps on my CA249).

     

    I've tried opening up the gun then holding tissue around various areas (this would show if air was venting out around the hop up or magazine feed) but there seems to be no leaks. The pressure is good on the piston head, certainly when giving even a slightly vigorous push the pressure builds up. My only conclusions are that either a) the round is skittering along the long barrel and slowing down or B) the gear box area is slightly longer than a regular V2/V3 box and hence the spring is under a lot less pre-load (which I suspect is the reason but I can't verify). I could be that because of the QD spring guide, the length of the spring travel is a few mm longer than normal.

     

    I've ordered a couple of guarder springs to see if they make a difference so I guess I'll know later in the week.

  10. HI,

    Just as an update. I think the barrel is more 610mm than 640 (measuring from the bb feed to end of barrel). It looks like a 650mm barrel would reach just up to the openings of the flash hider so I think that is suitable.

     

    I've been trying to get the power up on mine (did 295fps out of the box), but after changing to an M110 spring, ptfe taping the cylinder head and changing the piston head O ring to the next imperial size up its made no difference. The seal is really good so I need to check the hop up next. It looks like there is no adjustment in the hop up. I suspect that the bucking has fallen out during barrel cleaning so I'll put a H hop up in tomorrow. All I can think of is that either there is a massive leak around the nozzle/hop unit or the bb is bouncing off the barrel on the way up and loosing fps that way.

  11. I spoke to dingodogs, apparently its quite a common problem with the SA80 type AEGs from ARES, a bit of mag wobble causes arcing. A blob of silicone sealant over the solder point added sufficient insulation for me.

     

    It also cured the weird ROF problem with is slowing down then speeding up. The shorting of the live wire was draining power.

     

    Do you know the inner barrel length BTW. I'm probably going to get a tightbore for mine?

     

  12. I spoke to dingodogs, apparently its quite a common problem with the SA80 type AEGs from ARES, a bit of mag wobble causes arcing. A blob of silicone sealant over the solder point added sufficient insulation for me.

  13. Well its now been christened on its first outing. Its only 300fps, but has a really nice effective range, certainly up with some of the 320-330 fps guns I was up against.

     

    The gun performed well apart from one very big problem at first (which I have yet to properly resolve). After a few shots the AEG, on full auto, started to stink then the RPM became random. The smell was of burning solder. As it got really bad I dropped out the mag and had a look inside. The lead wire to the gearbox is the positive and has no insulation on the solder point. The result is that under use if the mag catches the wire it earths heats the solder up and stinks to high heaven. The battery drain causes a lowering of RPM, hence less vibration, so the RPM climbs again.

     

    As a quick fix i put a line of insulating tape up the mag well and it stopped misbehaving immediately (of course its a temporary fix at best)

     

    I thought I would check and see if this is a one off or any one else noticed this.

  14. Anyone noticed that the trigger on the Ares L86LSW has something like a 2 stage pull. On semi or spring release its a straight pull to fire, but on full auto, when you pull the trigger its as if it stops against a catch then a little more pull and the trigger moves all the way?

     

    I've found the ARES steel version with metal gear box very nice. Good weight. As said here earlier, check the screws haven't got loosened in transit and all is fine. Putting magazines in requires a little more "positive action" than many cheap softs, which is nice as the magazines are nice and secure.

     

    The only negative so far is the front grip removal and re-assembly to replace the battery. Its *very* easy to cross thread the forward sling mount as its softish alloy with a steel screw. I get the feeling that mine will get a helicoil thread insert at some point in the non too distant future for strength.

  15. Has anyone tried bonding the two body sections together, e.g. epoxy resin glue or cyanoacrylate? I don't think PU adhesive (e.g. Sikaflex) will work as it a) is designed for some flex and B) you need a certain thickness of bonding agent. Another option could be the low temperature ally welding rods, but I suspect they would melt at a higher temperature than the body :)

     

    The other option is thread inserts, but I just think that there isn't enough surface for the screws to bite to.

     

    I was thinking of cutting small groves in the mating surfaces to increase the body area and soldering the spade connectors inside the body*

     

     

    (*) I've found the only reason to split the gun in two is if you don't disconnect the mosfet on barrel removal. Its possible to disconnect the spade connectors very easily. Once you have had to open up the body once or twice, its not quite the same after, due to, as mentioned, poor screw threads.

  16. I did consider a tightbore myself (my CA 249 has one), but I guess it depends on what sort of role you plan for it. I quite like the standard bore for the slight spread (its not bad as is). I found it to be considerably better after a good clean out and polish up with brasso (autosol isn't too bad but I find it a tad agressive for brass).

  17. Mine is running sweet, about half a dozen refils later. There are a couple of bad points though which I'll point out:

    1) Hop up bucking is pants, changed for a bit of "bic/biro" refil and its significantly better.

    2) When ejecting the barrel with the barrel release *make*sure* you disconnect the forward plug to the mosfet, else you end up disconnecting the negative lead right near the center of the weapon

    3) the screws, even with shakeproof washers do work loose. Holding the weapon by the foregrip does seems to cause wobble much more easily.

    4) over turning the mosfet power selector can work the front nut loose and cause it to stick on one rpm, just tighten it back up. There is a slipper mechanisim on the potentiometer to prevent you breaking it with excessive use.

     

    The leads that run down the gas tube to the gear box have a spade connector, too much of a pull here and they can disconnect.

     

    I particularly like the modular nature of the assembly. The 3 pin plug on the front of the gearbox is a really good idea, allowing dead easy gearbox extraction. Its a pitty you have to extract the gear box to get the spring out, unlike the CA M249, looks like it only a small bit of intererence too.

     

    It seems to run well on a big 8.4v battery even if the manual states 9.6 or above. I've found turning down the mosfet to the lowest possible rpm then poping away nearly as effective as high rpm. Something about the methodical plugging away that keeps people's heads down :)

     

    On the whole my CA M249 is rather grumpy now as it spends a lot of time kept in storage rather that comming out to play :) Every time a get a weapon out for a game I keep picking up the pig for a play.

     

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