Richard Y

been there done that .. trust us the spring is too long.. cut more off it. ive ran sopmod m4 on a 1200 mah 7.4v at 450 fps with just shs gears and an shs hi torque motor... so yours certainly should be doing better. Remember just because it works doesn't mean its still not to tight either the shimming or the spring length.. the spring I used was fringing tiny.. it was shorter than a midgets penis but I used a cut down m170 I think if memory serves. go big on the spring but cut it extra short. or order up one of my m120s that will get you 400 ish fps

the only torque options come from Prometheus or seigetek http://eagle6.co.uk/shop/parts-upgrade-s/internal-parts-upgrade-s/int-tokyo-marui-next-generation-recoil-shock-series/ng-gears-gear-sets.html ?

The next gen new v2 gearbox is shorter so it needs shorter springs. http://eagle6.co.uk/shop/parts-upgrade-s/internal-parts-upgrade-s/int-tokyo-marui-next-generation-recoil-shock-series/ng-gearbox-main-spring.html ? if you are going to cut your own always as a rule go larger and cut shorter, if you want more than 400 fps then get an even larger spring and cut it shorter! your lock ups have nothing to do with gear ratio as that is standard its simply not enough room and the gearbox is doing way to much work. remember there's a RECOIL system on it as well, and its only a 7.4v 2000mah bat

Doubtful that its a tolerance issue, the front sight is separate from the outer barrel, install the outer barrel then tighten the outer barrel castle nut with the correct tool making sure it is very tight. with the inner barrel removed you can undo the front sight grub screw and tilt the front sight to what ever position you deem "straight" then tighten the grub screw. you'll only be able to move it left or right a very mm but its probably enough to get it correct for you. If your not getting epic accuracy then there's something probably wrong. that or you need to go up to heavier amm

+1 you definitely need the correct pipe wench..

No

Next gen contact switch sets only

thats correct, the way AEG's for is you need to pull the trigger back and although the mechanism to discount its self. If you try and fire and release it your self like a real gun it will potentially lock up. If it gets really bad then try more voltage.

you should try a stronger battery then if that doesn't work it might be best you take it apart to make sure everything is ok and moving smooth like shiming / gears etc.

If the stock tube ring is done up tight then there will be no wobble, especially if its a new gun. maybe your confusing stock wobble with stock tube wobble.

The trigger just pivots and moves a blade backwards, the click is the trigger dropping off the bottom of the electrical blade which allows it to ping back to a resting position and another click as the trigger slips back under the blade ledge ready to start a new blade pull. My money's on broken contact switch set spring maybe / set. regardless of the issue its gearbox open and inspection time if it's not working right, just continuing to use it will only damage parts more, might as well dive in and find out what's wrong. If you have little knowledge about what's broken or not when you g

They use next gen gears.. same as m4 recoil. http://eagle6.co.uk/shop/info-interactive-ngrs-aks74u

Yeah it's so close to v3 I don't see why a v3 trigger get wouldn't work. Nice guns the g36s not entirely sure why they arnt more popular ..

It's normal, just put some white lithium grease on the spring guide, between the guide and the spring and it will make it a little quieter.

Then yes if it's rear wired and your using a normal aeg stock then your only option would be to solider straight to the wires.

most common at the moment is soldiering wires directly to the end metal bars, thus restaining the quick change bars and solid stock feel, but simply removing the end connection which fits the quick change. then most wire in parallel for more battery power.

they are interchangeable but the 416 lower is 2mm wider. so thats a 1mm difference on each side.

sometimes you can undo the piston head by hand .. Sometimes you can't. You just have to try and see. I find a rag in each hand for purchase best. And yes it's common for original cylinder heads to loose compression at the base of the nozzle guide. Not that common but enough to say I've seen it before

video link below about 24mins in, and as above if you have the older style end cap which doesn't have the o ring and instead uses loctite you may need to heat with a lighter before it will come loose. http://youtu.be/hv8_FqCn_Ho?list=UUIHcndZaGIOO8l4FVv0JQtQ

yeah probably the maid and metal base plate combo. Could even be a bent com shaft on the gaurder motor. I had one once arrive and the pin gear shaft was pointing at 30 degrees off where it should have been. maybe it was dropped or stood on or something.

the lower is 2mm wider to allow for 1mm either side of the extra selector. the gearbox shell is the same as the m4. Its the pistol grip which holds the ambi cog in place at the back. theoretically it could work on an m4. but you might have to overcome the lack of space issue. probably sanding to get 1mm back. And obviously the right side doesnt have the part the gold pin would "click" into and also the stopper to manually stopper it being turned to much. Link to HK416D parts diagram - http://eagle6.co.uk/shop/info-interactive-ngrs-hk416d

Remember this is a personal choice, users don't have to remove all this, in fact the whole point of me pushing for a BTC fet 4 years ago was that it would make this a more viable option. I have installed a fet with 8.4v bats and got very usable ROF, so on recelled sopmod pack, or 7.4v with lipo converter its going to be more than fine.

The laylax bits are high quality and extremely strong, exactly what you'd expect from them.