Richard Y

The gold contact bar conversion kit should be looked at .. It comes with a handy block which you can screw in place after the quick change has been removed. Then your bars won't slide out after the quick change connections on the stock have been removed.

yes, HK416, SCAR and M4 Next Gen Recoil Shock Series use the same Contact switch sets and same cut off levers.

Yeah ive got a pre production on the way hopefully. Looking forward to testing it out, i will report back any issues. Its rear wired so i will get a sopmod in and see how much needs to be done from out of box to get it in a normal bog standard sopmod.

You can dremel over the castle making it thinner but but tbh if I did it again I would just remove the caste nut .. The stock will hold the tube against the gun. So it doesn't wind out.

I'm sure if you go back a hundred pages you can find the posts when I made that m16a3. I've still got some adaptors somewhere. Basically an end cap with a piece of metal long enough to fill the void with a threaded hole in the end. Thread the end cap on , stock on , tighten up . Typically though you will have to lose the locking ring and use the stock to hold the stock tube against the lower. And mod the stock insides. Not everyone's cup of taw full stock but hopefully marui do there own in May, line survivor film might just have been enough screen time if a full stocked m4 to do it h

Shs motor, shs bushings, shs gears. Otherwise yeah

I posted a video of a Sopmod with MOSFET, running a crappy 8.4v 1300mah pack which I could spam crazy fast. It honestly makes all the difference in the world for a next gen because they have to work the extra recoil unit, usually going through a quick change system. It's an instant 20% increase in power and bypassing the trigger for the main current means faster activation.

Shs high torque is cheap as chips and really powerful. http://eagle6.co.uk/shop/upgrade-part-s/upgrades-aeg/motors-parts/shs-high-torque-motor-long-type.html

Notice how one has stock tube contacts http://eagle6.co.uk/shop/prometheus-gold-stock-terminals-for-tm-sopmod.html And the other is just bars and a end cap / block. http://eagle6.co.uk/shop/prometheus-gold-stock-terminal-custom-for-marui-next-generation-hk416d-ebb.html

With the standard quick change trigger talk adaptor, shortening the end caps you can get a split pack 7.4v 2000mah nano tech in there as long as you make the wires very neat.. That's still using the quick change. There's two contact gold bar sets. One is for hk416 but basically this is just bars and a plastic block which you screw on to the end in place of the quick connection block on the Sopmod. I like to use the Sopmod stock even if I rewire as any after market ones with battery's always seem to have wobble. So if you direct wire you could combine both contact sets or just fit

Yeah it's the combo both the contacts and the bars being plated which work well. You have to watch it though as sometimes the wider contacts can sit just a little to wide so they aren't fully pushing down if you can picture it .. Some feeling needed as always Test your rps with out the stock and you will know how much rps your losing through it. It might be nothing .. There's just a massive gap between your socom and hk

Yeah defo try the gandp motor... That's a vast difference that said you will be losing x y z in the hk 416 quick change system, maybe the gold terminal kit could give you a better surface area contact on the stock tube terminals. Take the hk stock off and repeat one of the tests but with the wires directly pushed into a tamiya connector or solder on a quick deans for testing. And see the rof diff without the stock The problem with recoils is there's a zone where there trigger response and rof is perfect between 12 - 18 If you drift into the 10 rps territory it's like firin

Yeah at some point I've done just single parts for testing and comparison it's shockingly time destroying but I don't remember specific rps results just fps bumps, back in the day fps was always the bench market for a part improving a gun now we look for that rof efficiency too. It's my Infos the same as all gun techs, you just draw conclusions over time based on what ever results you see when working on guns. There's zero science or proof of anything Airsoft all we can do is change something and test and even then that could be skewed by that particular gun. Like if I fit an aftermarket

Ut oh, what's it clocking in at ? How did the gears sound when you tested them manually without cylinder set nice and smooth ? What about other things like trigger response does it feel snappier with the higher torque, I always felt like single shots where faster in response after fitting the gears.

I think your just pulling it to slowly as sixtyniner says , a bit like when players spam the trigger and release to soon potentially causing a lock up, trigger disciplines a big part since it needs that full trigger pull to properly disconnect the blade. If the blade never gets there it's gunna miss the first few bounces of the cut off lever. Ive sat the hk416 and m4 triggers side by side they are identical, I thought at the very least cosmetically they would be different, as are all the other gearbox parts apart from the selector plate which has an extra bit on to fill the void of the wi

I put another post further down explaining vented piston heads and how they work, yes I have tried it which is why I suggested it, only about 50 times haha. I did say to try expanding the piston ring first, it's reliant soley on the o ring filling the gap, if the o ring no longer does that it doesn't seal, and rubber contracts over time. The issue with non vented is longevity and consistency, how long till a tiny gap appears or more gap then more, ever decreasing fps. The venting works, the air goes in the holes and expands it, enough to form a "more consistent" seal. I've seen more consis

Sexy stuff, I've not had the issue with any sets but it could be wear or even an off spec set. At the end of the day the shs is only meant to be a budget alternative. You could put a blob of resin glue on the tip of the cut off. The part that lifts the trigger blade , make up the last mm or so missing. It's easierly removed and you can sand it back if you go to far.

Video tutorial on how to tighten the scar l front sight if it develops wobble http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=aui-ypSPenU&feature=youtu.be

I will order my allotted 5 units given the chance matey, Ive been requesting this product for 3 odd years haha, it's exactly what we need, but if frank only has 100 or so units he doesn't really need me to sell them from my shop, they will sell just fine from his site. Happy to spread the love though I suspect there's already 100 Sopmod owners pressing f5 on that page ..

I'm assuming frank tested first the prototype in a tm gearbox, though the wire issue has me wonder .. I would test this btc unit in franks test tm and see if the current batch has been produced off spec .. Or if it's specifically just your guns. I'm assuming if you built up the height of the cut off lever with a hard epoxy that it would cure the issue because it's stopping a mm too short. That or something is physically fouling the operation of the lever .. You could try removing and sanding the top and bottom surfaces then buffing them. Making it slimmer, lighter and smoother, then app

The army gearbox is off spec plus those big oversized bushings that come with it .. Really it's not the best gearbox to be testing with especially if you will be passing the testing results back to frank. If franks made it based on the m4 he said echigoya sent him ages ago then that could be some of your issues.

everything wii tech is horse poo hence me not stocking it. You've probably just got the balance off when you altered the switch contacts. When it comes to working on them i tend to leave the contacts and don't move them, from past experience any time i tried to alter them it caused problems, either the issue your describing to much power being sent through before the cut off lifts the trigger blade, or too tight and it catches the trigger blade and it will physically stick even when you release the trigger. Its a pain in the butt, either replace the contacts with new or just keep playing

look there it is .. i hate that barrel locking nut so much..!!!! you could prob fudge that to go on but good to know its not a straight fit.

Err becareful with the wire routing so you can still fit the frame trigger pin, else you could try and jam it through and muller wirers , just based on pic above.

No luck, with the one I had, will order a other at some point for another go. I'm told there's specific c spanners for the job. Best to check real steel websites for a tool.