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Bob The Great

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About Bob The Great

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  1. I have this set of Inokatsu assembly instructions, but it should be the same. Look at steps 13 and 14. http://manbearpig.bobthegreat.com/post/Ino...520Assembly.jpg
  2. The standard WA style barrels fit my AGM fine, you just may need to replace the barrel nut if yours is for the "thick" shouldered barrels. The stock tubes use a unique thread though, so I don't think you can switch it out to a fixed stock.
  3. The ratchet would not cause that issue. If the ratchet were free-wheeling, the gun would shoot in Auto rather than Burst. Your auto sear is not releasing the hammer to fall for the second shot. If you used the same hammer and same auto sear without the rest of the burst kit (ie, convert back to Safe-Semi-Auto, but keep these two parts from the kit), I'll bet it would do the same thing in Auto. The reason you have to flip the selector is that the hammer is still being held by the auto sear, despite the bolt being closed. Moving the selector to Semi rotates the auto sear out of
  4. What exactly does it do when in burst mode? Does it just run auto until you release the trigger? If so, it could be that the selector is mis-aligned, and is not allowing the burst disconnector to engage. Alternately, the ratchet on the hammer may not be turning properly or the burst disconnector itself may be sized incorrectly and may not be catching the hook on the back of the hammer when it is supposed to.
  5. Doesn't really matter, but if you want to relieve spring tension for storage, dry-fire the gun and store it with the hammer down. Having the selector set to fire doesn't do anything with the hammer down. The reason you cannot engage the safety with the hammer down is that the hammer does not allow the trigger to return fully to its forward position, and therefore the selector cannot rotate to safe to block the trigger's movement.
  6. It's pretty simple to do if you understand the Stoner mechanism. Step 1: Remove the auto sear and spring and throw them away (or put them away for future use) Step 2: Disassemble the trigger group and pull out the disconnector Step 3: Cut the "tail" off of the disconnector so that the selector switch cannot engage it Step 4: Profit Here's an example of the mod you need to make. The finished disconnector should look like the AR-15 part. After this, the disconnector will catch the hammer every time, regardless of selector position (except safe, of course), and the
  7. A diagram like this? (see attachment) Nothing is labeled by name, but it may help you to identify missing parts, and most places seem to know what you mean when you reference the WA part numbers on that diagram. Also, keep in mind that many of the small misc parts are interchangeable with real AR-15 parts, or can be made to work with a little bit of fitting. That opens up a whole other supply source from you, since AR parts are cheap and easy to find in the US. Things like the grip, takedown pins, gas block, dust cover, stock (depending on what reciever you choose), etc can be sourc
  8. On real AR's, some people use a small bit of light grease on the buffer spring or the inside of the buffer tube to quiet the "SPPRROOIINNGGG!!". I imagine it would work on these rifles too.
  9. Ah, I wasn't aware that the JDT one had only been out for a few days. Thanks for the BoomArms link. That appears to be the one, and I went ahead and ordered it. BoomArms sure has a funny ordering method. I guess I'm supposed to just paypal the total that they emailed me to the order@boomarms.com address?
  10. Does anyone have any leads on retailers for the PGC hop up kit or the copy? The only place I've been able to find either is on RedWolf and they are out of stock. In case I can't find the PGC, what's the collective opinion around here of the "JDT" hop up on ebairsoft?
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