slu
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Posts posted by slu
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I hope someone picks this up and makes aftermarket stuff. Given that WE will take care of the bolt stop, I hope add-ons, particularly receivers, barrels (inner and outer) will start showing up.
Airsoft Buddy:
Any word on the selling of uppers and lower seperate, or selling parts kits for the WE? I would hate to purchase on and simply swap out half the parts.
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Again, thanks for all the updates. I hope AB can get that bolt stop taken care of, and hopefully an aftermarket won't take too long to develop.
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It's great to hear these positive reports from Lupus, Jin, and others.
If you guys ever get adventurous or run into loads of spare time, I'd love to see a full dissassemble/assemble guide.
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To sum it up: if these can shoot as far as AEGs, say good bye to AEGs and call back the old-schoolers!
Slu: I do know that. Look around you: most of us cant buy RS accesories in our own countries (thank god) and if you can find a RS modstock for 28$, like Element's, Id like to see it.
Not sure what you mean by thank god, but I do understand your concern if you don't want real parts, for all types of reasons. But, like I said, a lot of airsoft stuff is "real steel spec."
I'm not even totally sure what the difference between a real buffer tube and an airsoft buffer tube is, whether it be threading or diameter, but with some luck I'm sure you can find an "airsoft" buffer tube with proper receiver threads. I'm just stating my opinion, which is that if WE implements the changes you propose, I would be far less likely to get one of these.
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And how many times the price of a regular, high-end or chinese, accesory are the parts specifical for the WAM4?
Money is a factor for most of us, you know.
chas, a lot of this type of stuff is actually cheaper for actual firearms than for airsoft guns, particularly the pistol grip. Along those lines, like a lot of people already said, a lot of airsoft stuff is "real" spec.
So, I believe a lot of people want something that is compatible with as much real stuff as possible, and this is actually one of the major reasons I'm interested in this.
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To follow onto that Lupus, you mention the handedness of the threading. Do you know if its 14mm? I.e., can you thread an AEG hider on to test?
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Well this suggests that certain parts can just be replaced from the Asia version to the Export version to make it slower, and these part(s) have already been made. Hopefully its something not too complicated.
They take longer time in barrel so when they finally come out they have more inertia than lighter bbs.I will go off topic for a bit. I've heard this a lot of times. Though it seems intuitive, I believe it is wrong. First off "more inertia" just means more mass. Yes, a more massive BB has more mass than a less massive BB, but it has nothing to do with how long it spends in a barrel. I think by inertia, you meant momentum.
Second, assuming an ideal (frictionless) operation, no energy is lost. That means all of the potential energy stored in your gas as pressure (above atmospheric pressure) is transferred to the BB. This means that same gas, same pressure, same BB muzzle energy. This example is clearer with an AEG or something that rides off of a spring, since we are all more familiar with the concept of potential energy when it comes to a spring. Same spring, same compression, same muzzle energy on the BB.
Another way of saying this is that work done on the BB by the pressure of air (which equals its kinetic energy at muzzle exit) goes as Force * Distance Applied. Now, this force, the pressure force, does not depend on velocity, only position along the barrel. So its obvious that for the same pressure force, and same barrel length, the net work is the same, regardless of the BB mass.
So why is it that higher mass BBs have greater muzzle energy? Well, in the real world, there is such a thing as friction. Generally, friction goes as velocity, or in the case of drag, velocity squared, and is a force that opposes motion. So, since the larger BB is more massive (it has more inertia, like you pointed out), it accelerates slower from the pressure force, and hence it's velocity in the barrel is always slower that that of a less massive BB. This means Ffric on the more massive BB is always less than Ffric on the less massive BB, hence, the more massive BB loses less energy to friction.
I hope that dispels this "more time spent in the barrel" myth.
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It's not entirely necessary to cut down the entire barrel I think. Making a port on in the barrel large enough that you essentially bleed off all pressure at that point would do the same thing (i.e., equalize pressure with atmosphere at best case, or drop pressure dramatically in the worst case).
Obviously, the larger drop in FPS, the earlier you cut the port. But that's really an awful waste of gas.
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omg does that mean its now stateside? airsoftgi, when are you planning on stocking those puppies?
And if you are, what's your price?
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Good to hear Lupus. I don't know if you have any add-ons you could test fitment of? Is it a military or commercial buffer tube? Can front sites designed for AEG aftermarket barrels fit on this barrel? Is the barrel thread standard airsoft 14mm-?
What's the word on the hop up?
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Thats what I did for my TT MC cover. simply added a small square the top and one on each side plus a strip on the comm wire cover at the rear.
What type of thread did you use?
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I guess that's perfectly doable with their off-the shelf covers by just sewing some velcro on?
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Anyone know if the Tactical Tailor covers come with velcro?
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Can anyone give info on all the ###### that you guys put on the helmet?
I understand the Cat Eyes/horizontal helmet straps, the velcro tape. But what, for instance, is that length-wise strap that runs along the top of your helmets?
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YES! I had thought they would be compatible, but I didn't know for sure, so I held off from buying one.... Do you have a link for the xM110 tool? I am going for the Integrated sight Midlength one (as featured on the KAC SR-15 IWS that mine gun is built to replicate). Now I just need to speak with Op Parts about getting them to get one for me.... Thanks man! You answered a question I have had for months! Also, did you have to rethread the upreciever? (what metal body are you using?)
Glad I could help someone out. I was also worried when I got it, and having found no one before me, decided for once to be the guinea pig.
Here is a link to the XM110 Tool on UN.
It's compatible with any receiver with a "real steel" thread. Mine is King Arms. It attached with some elbow grease, didn't damage the threads at all.
OpParts is also the place I got mine from, by coincidence. I didn't realize they had the IWS URXs (so called "URX III"), keeping in mind the XM110 rails/rails designed for SR25s probably will not work on any airsoft receiver, since all airsoft receivers have an AR-15 receiver thread. They are really great people. An IWS setup on a GBB M4 would be friggin incredible.
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DAMN! Real urx? What tools did you need to do the install? I wanted to get a real one, but $300 for a wrench that is a must to install is crazytalk.....
I didn't spring for the KAC tools, their insane price is really to prevent people other than dealers from buying them. You'd have to be installing a lot of URXs for money to make purchasing a set worthwhile.
Luckily, G&P makes the tools for installing their URX-based front end kits, and they work fine for the real deal, since G&P URX clones directly copy the attachment methodology. The set comes with a wrench (that has handles, so you don't need an armorer's wrench as you do with the actual KAC wrench) and a small railgrabber that allows you to align the upper receiver and the rail (which isn't nearly as robust as the KAC one). Regardless, it does the job fine for airsoft purposes.
However, if you are springing for the rifle-length URX, make sure you get the "XM-110 installation tool," not the plain-jane "URX installation tool". The "URX installation tool" is too short to install the rifle-length URX (and maybe even the midlength one). They both cost around $50 plus shipping.
What was painful was that, when I did this earlier this summer, I didn't realize the "URX installation tool" wasn't long enough (at that time G&P didn't have the "XM-110 tool"), so I actually had someone weld on a 4" extension to the tube. It worked fine though, as you can see. The installation is really a breeze once you have the wrench.
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Didn't go over too well on the Armalite picture thread, but maybe you guys will like this more. A SAM-R replica except with a KAC rifle length URX II. Hopefully this qualifies. The front sight is technically KAC as well but is a knock off from G&P.
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Hispeed:
How did you get a PEQ-15?
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Holy image dump, Batman! (Some reused, some not)
Trying brightening up the last two, either in photoshop (in which case you'll probably get tons of artifacts)or just throw some light on there when you shoot. The would look great with more light.
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where would i get RS front ends for my next project.
im trying to get as much RS on it as possible.
cheers
Being in the UK it's fairly difficult for you, but for US folks there are several places online.
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Sweet. An actual DD RIS II? That is super.
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"SAM-Rish" build done over the summer.
WE Gas Blow Back M4A1 Carbine
in Rifles (Gas)
Posted
Depending on the arrival of aftermarket parts, installing a longer barrel should be no harder than doing it to your old AEG. As for performance, I can't say anything since I have no experience.
I really hope WE sells the peices, or at least sells spare uppers to facilitate upper-swapping. If the FPS-adjustment peices are sold as well, it'll be easy to use one lower for both longer range and CQB, which would truly be my ideal setup.