slu

Again, thanks for all the updates. I hope AB can get that bolt stop taken care of, and hopefully an aftermarket won't take too long to develop.

It's great to hear these positive reports from Lupus, Jin, and others. If you guys ever get adventurous or run into loads of spare time, I'd love to see a full dissassemble/assemble guide.

Not sure what you mean by thank god, but I do understand your concern if you don't want real parts, for all types of reasons. But, like I said, a lot of airsoft stuff is "real steel spec." I'm not even totally sure what the difference between a real buffer tube and an airsoft buffer tube is, whether it be threading or diameter, but with some luck I'm sure you can find an "airsoft" buffer tube with proper receiver threads. I'm just stating my opinion, which is that if WE implements the changes you propose, I would be far less likely to get one of these.

chas, a lot of this type of stuff is actually cheaper for actual firearms than for airsoft guns, particularly the pistol grip. Along those lines, like a lot of people already said, a lot of airsoft stuff is "real" spec. So, I believe a lot of people want something that is compatible with as much real stuff as possible, and this is actually one of the major reasons I'm interested in this.

To follow onto that Lupus, you mention the handedness of the threading. Do you know if its 14mm? I.e., can you thread an AEG hider on to test?

Well this suggests that certain parts can just be replaced from the Asia version to the Export version to make it slower, and these part(s) have already been made. Hopefully its something not too complicated. I will go off topic for a bit. I've heard this a lot of times. Though it seems intuitive, I believe it is wrong. First off "more inertia" just means more mass. Yes, a more massive BB has more mass than a less massive BB, but it has nothing to do with how long it spends in a barrel. I think by inertia, you meant momentum. Second, assuming an ideal (frictionless) operation

It's not entirely necessary to cut down the entire barrel I think. Making a port on in the barrel large enough that you essentially bleed off all pressure at that point would do the same thing (i.e., equalize pressure with atmosphere at best case, or drop pressure dramatically in the worst case). Obviously, the larger drop in FPS, the earlier you cut the port. But that's really an awful waste of gas.

And if you are, what's your price?

Good to hear Lupus. I don't know if you have any add-ons you could test fitment of? Is it a military or commercial buffer tube? Can front sites designed for AEG aftermarket barrels fit on this barrel? Is the barrel thread standard airsoft 14mm-? What's the word on the hop up?

What type of thread did you use?

I guess that's perfectly doable with their off-the shelf covers by just sewing some velcro on?

Anyone know if the Tactical Tailor covers come with velcro?

Can anyone give info on all the ###### that you guys put on the helmet? I understand the Cat Eyes/horizontal helmet straps, the velcro tape. But what, for instance, is that length-wise strap that runs along the top of your helmets?

Glad I could help someone out. I was also worried when I got it, and having found no one before me, decided for once to be the guinea pig. Here is a link to the XM110 Tool on UN. It's compatible with any receiver with a "real steel" thread. Mine is King Arms. It attached with some elbow grease, didn't damage the threads at all. OpParts is also the place I got mine from, by coincidence. I didn't realize they had the IWS URXs (so called "URX III"), keeping in mind the XM110 rails/rails designed for SR25s probably will not work on any airsoft receiver, since all airsoft receivers

I didn't spring for the KAC tools, their insane price is really to prevent people other than dealers from buying them. You'd have to be installing a lot of URXs for money to make purchasing a set worthwhile. Luckily, G&P makes the tools for installing their URX-based front end kits, and they work fine for the real deal, since G&P URX clones directly copy the attachment methodology. The set comes with a wrench (that has handles, so you don't need an armorer's wrench as you do with the actual KAC wrench) and a small railgrabber that allows you to align the upper receiver and the rai

Didn't go over too well on the Armalite picture thread, but maybe you guys will like this more. A SAM-R replica except with a KAC rifle length URX II. Hopefully this qualifies. The front sight is technically KAC as well but is a knock off from G&P.

Hispeed: How did you get a PEQ-15?

Trying brightening up the last two, either in photoshop (in which case you'll probably get tons of artifacts)or just throw some light on there when you shoot. The would look great with more light.

Being in the UK it's fairly difficult for you, but for US folks there are several places online.

Sweet. An actual DD RIS II? That is super.

"SAM-Rish" build done over the summer.