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slu

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Posts posted by slu

  1. Woo! New gun!

    Still needs a few bits.. VFG, Sling + somewhere to attach it but on the whole I'm pretty happy.

     

    ptwb.jpg

     

    I like this! 16"? Not a big fan of the MBUS, but if your outer barrel is aluminum, I bet that thing is light as hell. Must handle very well.Silver buffer tube is very bling bling. Don't get it gold plated. Is this a TM EBBR? GBBR?

  2. KAC Mk12 actually. I'm not sure if that's still the case though since I haven't seen any Mk12's in stock anywhere. KAC may still be producing them for the military though. I've seen some FSP's used but they appeared to only be in testing. The M4's seem to have gotten a little farther in the testing phase based on those pics I linked (or they may have started being issued already.)

     

    -OGGY

     

    And slu, black LMT's all the way. I love mine! :)

     

    I see. However, Badger Ordnance makes a Mk 12 gas block clone, that's the one I put on my SPR upper.

  3. That looks great slu! I've got two questions for you; what is the white/grey bit behind your flash hider and have you considered using a issue FSP?

     

    -OGGY

     

    EDIT: I think you will appreciate these pics of real Block II M4/M203's:

    http://www.militaryblog.jp/usr/g75goodenough/qalat.jpg

    http://www.militaryblog.jp/usr/g75goodenough/2zfpbti.jpg

     

    Thanks OGGY! The grey bit behind my flash-hider is a CW/CCW adapter. The silver bit right behind the hider is just a washer. I use the CW G&P steel outer than came with the WOC that this was based off of a long time ago (the barrel is the only part that remains externally, but internally everything is still G&P, until they break). The VFC NTSS kit is CCW, so for now I have to use it. The adapter was originally anodized black, I later stripped and refinished in Alumahyde "SS," but as you can see the match is terrible.

     

    I have considered using a normal FSP. I like the unobstructed sight picture with a flip down, though I agree it loses authenticity. The sight is an ARMS #41B, so folded up it bears passing resemblance to the stock FSP.

     

    Thanks for sharing those photos. I've actually never even seen a real Block II M4 in use, much less ones with M203s. I'm glad to see black LMTS! Those are not FSP models, though, I don't even know if FSP cutout models are being used. Any idea what low profile gas blocks they use?

  4. Trying to get more "legit Block II" on this. Soon to replace the ACS with a black LMT SOPMOD. $40 extra for FDE is not worth it in my book.

     

    dsc0007ye.jpg

     

    Didn't change too much, mostly stuff from spare parts bin, but I feel it looks it a bit more "legit". ACS -> LMT, SF brake -> KAC hider, TD panels -> KAC panels. The RIS is indeed a DD one. What I like about the LMT is that it's a bit shorter than the ACS. For me, the ACS sits flush against the receiver for nose to handle, and the LMT sits at the first notch. First notch is better because it frees the ASAP for shoulder transitions.

  5. I dunno about that lol....I can't wait to finish it though.

     

    I'd imagine it'll be interesting to troubleshoot all the issues I anticipate it will having....GBBRs can be such a pain...

     

    Well at least the upper looks done. You can just slap it on a lower and tune. I'm sure the hop-up and BCG are far more troublesome than lower parts. Is the a carrier a Prime carrier?

  6. Repost from GGI, but new 7.5" upper for my WAM4

     

    dsc0004y.jpg

     

    Iron Airsoft LaRue Stealth Upper

    PRI M84 Gas Buster with Combat Latch

    Prime Noveske Diplomat 7.5" Steel outer barrel/gas block

    King Arms Noveske KX3

    LaRue BUIS (VFZ Mount)

    Troy Fixed Front Sight

    LaRue 7.0" FF Tube

    Magpul AFG

     

    G&P internals (BCG, hopup chamber, short inner barrel)

     

    The lower and the 553 are old so I won't give the parts. The barrel and KX3 are steel, so this thing is pretty solid. Feels very good in the hands.The LaRue tube installs without a hitch on the Iron upper, but tightening down the barrel nut definitely requires an armorer's wrench or similar tool.

  7. Here is the 16" DYTAC I recently purchased for WA platform:

     

    http://www.redwolfairsoft.com/redwolf/airsoft/Accessories_Outer_Barrels_GBB_Dytac_16inch_mid_length_Barrel_Assemble_for_WA_Western_Arms_M4_Series_Black.htm

     

    Redwolf has both the black and silver version in stock. But you're right, I don't see one for AEGs anywhere.

     

    rm:

     

    http://www.gp-web.com/en/newspop.php?nid=1544

     

    It's 16" and steel, but has those KAC dimples, which you may find cool. An AEG version is also listed on their site.

  8. Can anybody say, Recce? :D

     

     

    That said, does anyone else that owns a DYTAC barrel think they're abnormally heavy? :(

     

    Compared to what? I think they are light as hell! The 16" DYTAC I have on an SPR upper is terrific. Despite the barrel being 4" longer than the 14.5" (there's a 2" extension to make it an SPR), I can steady it with one hand on the pistol grip. If I tried to do that with the steel barreled 14.5", I'd get tired real fast. Of course, this goes for any aluminum barrel, not just the DYTAC.

     

    For all practical purposes, aluminum outer barrels are just better: cheaper and lighter. I still like the steel ones for "realism".

     

    Otherwise, excellent looking shooter!

  9. If it's actually properly machined, all those super sharp edges should be deburred before they're done (so they don't slice you open). They are most definitely CNC milled (judging by machine marks), as that is probably far cheaper than finding an artisan with the skill to finish these by hand with good consistency. The difference between milled from billet and milled from casting is just that: the quality of the casting is not as great (from my experience, the material is more brittle). But the places that sell these billet airsoft pieces are all small time, low volume shops. That's why a real upper/lower (milled from 7075 aluminum forging and type 3 hard anodized) costs around $200 in the States, but an airsoft upper/lower (milled from aluminum billet, but from cheaper 6061 aluminum and some kind of softer anodization) costs $500.

     

    Arion:

     

    After you use them, they don't look that perfect anymore. I think that's true for everything.

  10. I am not sure if VFC sells it separately.

     

    However you could always check out the G&P or King Arms version. I believe they retail for around $25 and are very solid. Redwolf and WGCshop both carries them.

     

    -Shin

     

    shin, uscm,

     

    Thanks for the info. I do realize there are other versions of the TTB, but none of them are as current as the one VFC makes. Also, the VFC version is "chipped" to (hopefully) accept their NTSS copy, and it'd be cool if I could fit that on there.

  11. I don't know if you guys know:

     

    Does VFC sell the triple tap brake that comes with the PDW separately?

     

    Also, I remember there was some discussion on this, but how have you guys managed to strip the finish and polish your TTBs?

  12. My SR16, soon to have the stock replaced with an ACE stock when the lipos arrive :)

     

     

    Is that a Marui SR? Awesome! Looks like you kept it mostly stock too. Brings back many memories.

     

    I think we can tell from this thread that VFC has successfully commoditized the super-accurate KAC look. I remember 5 or so years back, when Marui was still king and before the SPR craze, they were the first people to start making replicas of KAC rails, and anyone who wanted a KAC had to assemble it themselves, maybe even splurge for a real KAC rail. Nowadays, it seems like everyone and their mother has an SR15 IWS.

  13. The enlarged bolt release and mag catch also look custom made, because I've never seen ones like that before. I'd actually really like the extended bolt release, it'd be the equivalent of a Magpul BAD for lefties.

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