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Thanks OGGY! The grey bit behind my flash-hider is a CW/CCW adapter. The silver bit right behind the hider is just a washer. I use the CW G&P steel outer than came with the WOC that this was based off of a long time ago (the barrel is the only part that remains externally, but internally everything is still G&P, until they break). The VFC NTSS kit is CCW, so for now I have to use it. The adapter was originally anodized black, I later stripped and refinished in Alumahyde "SS," but as you can see the match is terrible. I have considered using a normal FSP. I like the unobstructed sig

Didn't change too much, mostly stuff from spare parts bin, but I feel it looks it a bit more "legit". ACS -> LMT, SF brake -> KAC hider, TD panels -> KAC panels. The RIS is indeed a DD one. What I like about the LMT is that it's a bit shorter than the ACS. For me, the ACS sits flush against the receiver for nose to handle, and the LMT sits at the first notch. First notch is better because it frees the ASAP for shoulder transitions.

Trying to get more "legit Block II" on this. Soon to replace the ACS with a black LMT SOPMOD. $40 extra for FDE is not worth it in my book.

Well at least the upper looks done. You can just slap it on a lower and tune. I'm sure the hop-up and BCG are far more troublesome than lower parts. Is the a carrier a Prime carrier?

Nice to see it done! Yours puts mine to shame.

Repost from GGI, but new 7.5" upper for my WAM4 Iron Airsoft LaRue Stealth Upper PRI M84 Gas Buster with Combat Latch Prime Noveske Diplomat 7.5" Steel outer barrel/gas block King Arms Noveske KX3 LaRue BUIS (VFZ Mount) Troy Fixed Front Sight LaRue 7.0" FF Tube Magpul AFG G&P internals (BCG, hopup chamber, short inner barrel) The lower and the 553 are old so I won't give the parts. The barrel and KX3 are steel, so this thing is pretty solid. Feels very good in the hands.The LaRue tube installs without a hitch on the Iron upper, but tightening down the barrel nut def

Quick question: does the light attach to the rail in the same fashion as the real Scout light? I would like to install it on a Scout mount.

http://www.vltor.com/casv-m.htm

Just keep in mind your normal mags may have difficult fitting after the magwell is installed. You need those extended Match magazines.

That is suh-weet!! Nice change of pace from all the straight-from-the-box VFC "SR15 E3"s.

Agreed. If I took 23bbs to the goggles at near point blank range, I'd probably replace my goggles regardless of the make and model.

Here is the 16" DYTAC I recently purchased for WA platform: http://www.redwolfairsoft.com/redwolf/airsoft/Accessories_Outer_Barrels_GBB_Dytac_16inch_mid_length_Barrel_Assemble_for_WA_Western_Arms_M4_Series_Black.htm Redwolf has both the black and silver version in stock. But you're right, I don't see one for AEGs anywhere. rm: http://www.gp-web.com/en/newspop.php?nid=1544 It's 16" and steel, but has those KAC dimples, which you may find cool. An AEG version is also listed on their site.

Compared to what? I think they are light as hell! The 16" DYTAC I have on an SPR upper is terrific. Despite the barrel being 4" longer than the 14.5" (there's a 2" extension to make it an SPR), I can steady it with one hand on the pistol grip. If I tried to do that with the steel barreled 14.5", I'd get tired real fast. Of course, this goes for any aluminum barrel, not just the DYTAC. For all practical purposes, aluminum outer barrels are just better: cheaper and lighter. I still like the steel ones for "realism". Otherwise, excellent looking shooter!

Fingers, I like that just as it is.

IDK, would prefer the LMT to the CTR.

If it's actually properly machined, all those super sharp edges should be deburred before they're done (so they don't slice you open). They are most definitely CNC milled (judging by machine marks), as that is probably far cheaper than finding an artisan with the skill to finish these by hand with good consistency. The difference between milled from billet and milled from casting is just that: the quality of the casting is not as great (from my experience, the material is more brittle). But the places that sell these billet airsoft pieces are all small time, low volume shops. That's why a real

shin, uscm, Thanks for the info. I do realize there are other versions of the TTB, but none of them are as current as the one VFC makes. Also, the VFC version is "chipped" to (hopefully) accept their NTSS copy, and it'd be cool if I could fit that on there.

I don't know if you guys know: Does VFC sell the triple tap brake that comes with the PDW separately? Also, I remember there was some discussion on this, but how have you guys managed to strip the finish and polish your TTBs?

Another vote here for either a 9" or 10" rail, just to show that barrel a little. Never liked rails that covered up the entire barrel. Sure, more real estate, but not too great looking IMO.

Is that a Marui SR? Awesome! Looks like you kept it mostly stock too. Brings back many memories. I think we can tell from this thread that VFC has successfully commoditized the super-accurate KAC look. I remember 5 or so years back, when Marui was still king and before the SPR craze, they were the first people to start making replicas of KAC rails, and anyone who wanted a KAC had to assemble it themselves, maybe even splurge for a real KAC rail. Nowadays, it seems like everyone and their mother has an SR15 IWS.

The enlarged bolt release and mag catch also look custom made, because I've never seen ones like that before. I'd actually really like the extended bolt release, it'd be the equivalent of a Magpul BAD for lefties.

Nope, that's the old one. The Stealth upper is going with a 20" build that I'm slowly piecing together. I posted a preview on GGI.

Repost from GGI, but a WA M4.

I'll rephrase my question since I can't find a red trigger: how difficult is it to install a trigger intended for a real 2011 on a Hi-capa? Magwells?