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kruck

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Posts posted by kruck

  1. Got mine with two spare mags. Also got a silver barrel and wood grips on the way, as well as a tightbore and a falcon hop rubber (if I need it, I'm usually pretty happy with the stock one, but $6 is cheap enough to keep a couple handly ;) ).

     

    The only problem with mine is a couple of small dents in the inner barrel, presumable from the factory, which are making it shoot about 1.5ft high at 6m or so. Incredibly irritating to skirmish with, but at least its consistently in the same place! I got it from JDairsoft in the UK, but couldn't be bothered to send it back as I wouldn't have had it back in time, I already had a replacement barrel on the way and it was still skirmishable.

     

    The ASG markings on the right side are a bit fugly, but nail polish remover should eliminate them in short order.

     

    Also, no dots on the sights make aiming a tad slower, but nitesiters will soon fix that :D

     

    Oh, and the recoil spring is a little wimpy but it does the job at least.

     

    Other than those things, it is the perfect handgun for me. The controls are perfect, the grip is perfect. Trigger pull is lighter than a TM 1911 (something I didn't think was possible) although slightly longer. Gas efficiency is about 3.5 magazine loads per fill of gas, so about 75 before it farts the last of the gas out. Can't really give an accurate report on range because of the barrel dents, but I was getting hits out to 40m with no issue at all (just a few more shots than I might have liked to "sight it in"). Incredible for snap shooting, very fast cycle speed (faster and snappier than a TM 1911, which again, I didn't think was possible). It can empty all 23rds without a hint of cool down in rapid fire. Can't wait to skirmish it again!

  2. Big. Probably the biggest handgun recoil I've felt, including a desert eagle and upgraded & metal 1911s (and many others).

     

    Haven't tried duster/134a, but I imagine it would be pretty wimpy, if it even cycles properly.

     

    By design, the mag release is almost impossible to press accidentally. Its a typical HK downward lever style, rather than push button. The spring in it is stiff but not too stiff, so you won't lose any mags.

     

    I've skirmished mine a couple of times now. I lowered the FPS by widening the shaft of the floating valve with heatshrink, taking it down to around 330fps w/ .2g. The RATECH NPAS is also compatible, should you want easy adjustability.

     

    I haven't fully tested the range or set the hop, but I got a few hits out to around 40m with out any hassle, I'll give it a thorough testing when the wind dies down a bit.

     

    My mock extractor is pretty secure, its held in with a grub screw and has to be removed as part of the takedown process, so I can't imagine how the OPs managed to go flying - when I read the OP before I got mine, I imagined it was constructed similarly to the USP/USPc series, with the mock extractor clipping onto the slide, as I've had those go flying before but the MK23's seems solid.

     

    Accuracy is very good. I'll post some pictures of groupings when I do the range testing, but for now suffice to say it is easily as good as a stock TM 1911.

     

    The rear sight is adjustable by loosening the screw and moving it from side to side. This is also part of the slide disassembly process, so you'll have to re-zero it after messing with the slide internals. Or guess ;)

     

    Slide internals are typical System 7, very good stuff. If you take the nozzle return springs off, make sure you reattach them with glue/crimp them to avoid them coming off during firing. This also happened with the USP/USPc, as long as it comes off at the BBU end and not the loading nozzle end, they won't get chewed up and won't need replacing.

     

    Trigger pull in double action is long and hard. Single action has a bit of a dead zone before first pressure, then it is quite light and short pull to release the hammer. The decocker functions perfectly, you can also manually decock by thumbing down the hammer. The safety can only be applied when the gun is cocked, the decocker will not function with the safety applied.

     

    As said previously, the outer barrel is 16mm positive thread, and fits TM SOCOM silencers with no problem. The gun cycles a little slower and kick is reduced with the silencer attached, noise is also significantly reduced, since the threaded part of the barrel past the end of the inner barrel acts as a loudener of sorts, similar to the USP Tactical, so the silencer completely eliminates this. The action is slowed and slightly quietened also, albeit not significantly. The gun, without the silencer, is VERY loud indoors. Probably the loudest handgun I've fired indoors, not as loud as an MP9 or most GBBRs, but still very intimidating in enclosed areas.

     

    Cycle speed is very good. The magazine can dump all 26 rounds without a hint of cooldown, and no drop in felt recoil. Fantastic gun to fire. Gas efficiency is also very good, managing to fire almost 5 full magazine loads on one fill of gas (about 125 rounds before the gun farts out the last of the gas). This test was done rapid firing and reloading as quickly as possible until all the gas was gone, at room temperature. Despite the large magazine the gas efficiency isn't quite as good as the USP series, which managed about 150 rounds in the same test, although the MK23 has a much larger slide to cycle and a much heavier kick.

     

    The MK23 seems to be very sensitive to rain, and it gets in through the hammer area quite easily. I had to dry it out at lunch time and relube to get back to peak performance. The recoil spring guide needs lubrication for the gun to cycle correctly, which although irritating isn't exactly a chore. It's also very big and has to go in my dropleg holster (which I hate). Also, the slide release will disengage automatically when you insert a new magazine (which I also hate), I hold the slide release up with my thumb as I insert the new mag, then release it. No biggie.

     

    In conclusion: Get one. They're $180 and $40 magazines at UNCO, mine cost £180 shipped with 2 mags to the UK and then tax & handling was another £50. Definitely worth it.

  3. Except both of my rear sling loops snapped off in the first skirmish. They're too weak and I wouldn't trust them to hold your MP7.

     

    I got a RIS sling mount from FAB defence iirc, it was super cheap (about a fiver shipped) and works perfectly :)

  4. I had this problem when I first skirmished it. It turned out it was the recoil buffer detent pin (or whatever its called) had unscrewed and was causing cycling issues, and occasionally a BB jammed as you describe.

     

    Otherwise, you might try shimming the magazine so the inner sits a bit higher in the shell (0.5-1mm). I did this by using some card shims underneath between the shell and inner magazine, when they screw into each other in the base (or a washer would do, perhaps). I'd take a picture and show you, but I sold my M4 ;) This helped my feeding issues and improved the reliability of the bolt lock.

     

    Hope that helps.

  5. Y'know those nifty sights on the Mossberg 500's? Does anyone know if you can you buy those seperate at all? ill even buy Real steel.

    I've got a set or two hiding somewhere, PM me if you want them and I'll try and find them ;)

  6. Can anybody reccommend a red dot sight that is able to cope with the recoil. Have a 552 acm/element one which just turns off after every shot. Not looking for anything to fancy (or expensive). Cheers

     

    G&P 552, worked great on my g39, working great on my open bolt M4 :)

  7. I'll take some pictures in the daylight tomorrow if you still need them.

     

    But in words, there is a pin about halfway down the bolt, push it out from the ridged side - this is what holds in the return spring.

     

    The guide on the left of the bolt just lifts out.

     

    Unscrew the latch thingy on the top (the flat head screw) and then take out the guide from beneath that, then the loading nozzle will slide out as the guides aren't holding it in any more.

     

    Then there is a tiny little pin that holds the two halves of the loading nozzle together, and the other end of the return spring, push that out, it doesn't take much force, then pull the two halves apart.

     

    Whole process takes maybe five minutes.

     

    Apologies if anything doesn't make sense, sleep deprivation.

  8. G&P eotech 552 fine on G39 for a thousand rounds or so, had it on my OB M4 for about 700rds now (which kicks harder than my G39 did, probably the temperature - I had the g39 in winter) and its still fine. Depends entirely on the optics of course, but this one's great :)

  9. Just ordered the open chamber CQBR from airsoft global, came to about £240 shipped, and got the NPAS on the way from tactical quarter master. TQM say they'll start having the open bolt ARs in a couple of weeks, at around £300.

     

    Also, do we think it's worth starting a new thread for the Open chamber ARs? I have to say it, this thread is incredibly bloated...

  10. They're bombproof. I've had about a dozen of them over the years in various guns (both 5mm and 7mm), not had a single problem with them and you can tighten them as much as you like, they won't snap tongue.gif.

  11. You should be able to get the broken bit of fill valve out with a pair of nail scissors, if you jam the slightly separated blades in you should be able to unscrew it quite easily (hard to describe, I'll take a pic if you need). Replacements are about £2 shipped from RSOV, you're after the 7mm hornbill fill valve - probably worth getting one for each of your mags as the WE fill valves are utter ######.

  12. Just put in my order for the G39E from Evike last night. I'm very excited. Now, over the past few days I've been going through all 47 pages of this thread and I just have a few questions:

     

    Seeing as this is my first G36, and everyone agrees that you should strip it and clean it, do you guys know of any videos off hand showing what exactly to clean? Or does it just break down like a G36 AEG and I just clean anywhere I see WE lube?

     

    I found someone's guide to a Teflon mod already in here (Thank you Kruck)

     

    Aside from the wobbling inner barrel, this cocking while in full auto (Shouldn't be an issue for me as I'm only going to be using semi), the lube issue, tightening all of the screws, and the teflon mod. I'm new to GBBRs except for my KWA KMP9 (Amazing SMG if you're in the market for one) so I have basic maintenance down but nothing else. Am I missing anything?That's all I have on my list next to me here.

     

    Again thank you all for being very helpful.

     

    No problem ;)

    By the by, if anyone wants to copy that guide over to any other forums, feel free :)

  13. It isn't that bad. I might have mentioned it in the disassembly guide, but if you have the front of the bolt facing upwards, the spring should just dangle where it needs to be while you slide the pin in. I suppose if you disassemble the "other" way (the way I didn't cover in the guide) it could be quite tricky.

  14. The dangerwerx valve for the MP9 might work. I've heard the KSC and TM valves are cross compatible, but I wouldn't know..just a suggestion. The floating valves from TM GBBs are the same as the stock WE G39 valve, so no point in swapping them in.

  15. Finally finished my TRP build.

    IMAG0393.jpg

    IMAG0396.jpg

     

    IMAG0397.jpg

     

    IMAG0406.jpg

     

     

    I learnt a valuable lesson. Avoid Guarder steel bits. The slide stop, safety and grip safety all required a lot of modification to work correctly. Other than that, apart from the amount of time it took, I'm quite happy with it.

     

    When I get around to really finishing it, it'll have a metal outer barrel and Guns Modify tritium sights. Stainless steel grip screws probably wouldn't go amiss either :)

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