AG1212
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Posts posted by AG1212
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You know, posting that .gif doesn't make you the victim of unfounded hatred.
It just makes you a douche.
Also, Ollie suggesting you search doesn't make him a "hater". It just makes him frustrated with your laziness.
Like the rest of us.
Take some responsibility for your actions, accept the consequences.
Jesus, calm down. This was all tongue in cheek on my part, and I didn't get the impression that Ollie was particularly mad, more so confused and confounded. Couldn't find the MP7 thread (didn't think some silly billy would put it in the pistol section), so I though here was a good a place as any to ask
And yeah, the .gif was a joke.Anywho, back on topic lads!
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I dont even understand what happened here
To be honest with you, I don't either. But, thanks! I guess?
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LOL. Well I went through Rifles (Gas) and there isn't a thread on it, not sure where else to look.
Well I got my answer anyway.
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I gotta come clean, I'm getting the TM MP7
Couldn't find a thread for the KWA MP7, and couldn't find info on the silencer, so I asked here -
Well if using Green, it increases the FPS over the limit
Even with the silencer, 134a will give me less FPS than Green, and it's cold here most of the time so. -
From what I've read about the MP7 version, it doesn't really change the accuracy apart from the POI change.
Aye, so completely pointless performance wise
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The MP9 Inner barrel has unique cuts, so far there isn't a longer inner barrel available ( Possibly because of the FPS increase in an already powerful gun)
The Power Up Silencer does have an inner barrel section running through it which butts up to your standard inner barrel. It will adjust your point of aim, and also increase FPS.
How does it affect accuracy?
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A couple of thoughts for you AG:
1. I haven't seen a dramatic increase in accuracy on barrels in excess of the standard 363mm M4 carbine length. You might consider going with a barrel that doesnt quite reach out to the end of your outer barrel. 363 might be a tad short in your case but a 410ish might be an acceptable compromise. Going from a stock 363 to a tightbore 363 yields about 30 FPS gain. The actual accuracy effects of a tightbore are hotly debated by groups of players. Might a slightly looser barrel in a longer length get you the accuracy results you want without the FPS bump? IE, http://orga-airsoft.com/products-page/magnus-barrel/magnus-6-23mm-widebore-barrel-aeg/ (these arent compatible with the KJW but they may have something that is.)
2. Might also consider some porting along the barrel as you get further towards the end so that whatever positive gas pressure does exist is vented rather than continues to accelerate your BB.
Hmm, very interesting stuff. I do have some old clone AEG barrels that I can modify and chop-up how I please. Think I'll do some FPS and Range/Consistency comparisons between the stock barrel with reducer and whatever I can put together with those AEG barrels. Now just to find a chrono...
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Ok some folks don't know, just trying to help.
I think it'd be hard to get sub 1j on that barrel, had a job on my mates std M4 lenght tight bore and here in Scotland we are lucky to get 25 too.
You could run lower pressure gas, ie ultra or duster? Some guys on here do.
Sorry if I came off as an abrasive *rickroll*
I appreciate all the great info you've been giving me. And yeah, I guess I was being a tad too hopefull. I could run duster I suppose, but the gas efficiency will go down from what I've heard, as well as overall performance :/ I suppose I could try running some sort of mixture. Eh, regardless, I should just get the damn thing and tinker around till I come up with a solution.Cheers.
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Only an inner will increase FPS you could keep the stock inner in the 20" outer.
The RA tech ones bend and snap I'd only use the Cradle one.
Well I know that
I just don't see the point in having my gun 10 inches longer than it needs to be. So is it possible to have a 509mm-barreled KJW M4 running green below 1j? Temperature wise, Summer gets 25 degrees at most if we're lucky. -
Good V2 info.
The V2 bolt assembly is cheap from KJW sub $40 if I remeber right.
The TDC does indeed work well with the falcon rubber. Note: for those running the rubber and barrel in the UK 330 fps (cqb limit) is only just possible to achieve on propane with cradle valve.
I actually wanted to ask about FPS. Which reducer would give me the lowest FPS, RA-Tech or Cradle? The problem is that I plan on using this gun as a DMR platform, seeing as I have a spare 20-inch barrel laying around. Now obviously this would give a big jump in FPS, and I need it to run below 1j :/
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the V1 BCG still has the carrier extension issue (search in this topic about that), where the buffer smashes the detent, instead of the BCG and breaks the lower. The V2 BCG has fixed that with a it being a few mm longer, and the cradle modded V1 BCG has a carrier extension built in...
I said cheaper in the long run for that and the magazines, where you can get gen 1's bundled with a used gun, or buy gen 2 and go through a mod process, not to mention used stuff has way more bang for the buck, and KJW age well, you will have a gun that is as good as new.
How is buying a 400$ KJW V1.1 and 45$ mags separately cheaper than getting it all used anyways? You will have money left to get the cradle BCG, which superior and more durable to anything here. If i where to buy a KJW right now, i would tho that. You get V2 goodies without the crappy BCG.
I see, good points. But finding a KJW M4 second hand in this country will be next to impossible, not enough people involved with airsoft. And importing will be a pain in the *albatross*, seeing as we have a 1J limit....
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just buy a used V2, you can source them with 5 or so mags for around 400$ or so (one in good condition) and buy the cradle bolt separately. It will come out cheaper in the long run, plus the magazine "combo" you usually get with used rifles is great as you get the old gen 1 mags, no need to mod them... The v2 will have the reinforced receiver AND the updated hop up too, no one has mentioned that.
I don't see how it can work out cheaper, Ver. 1.1 from what I have read has no serious long term issues, and besides uppers are supposedly cheap to replace. I see no benefit with getting Ver. 2 if all I need to do with older versions is mod the hop, if that is even needed.
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Thanks for all the input guys, I really appreciate it.
I think I'll go for a Ver. 1.1 if I can find one, just seems to be less hassle if things go wrong, seeing as the bolt is the most expensive thing to replace.
I'll read the first 20 pages anyway, as advised.
Edit: Is this a 1.1? They list Ver.2 separately and it seems to have no serial number: http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/other-gun/gas-blow-black-rifle/kj-works/kj-works-m4a1-carbine-gas-blow-back-rifle-tanio-koba-design.html
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1. Early V1 can break lowers and upper reciever tabs. Neither is an expensive replacement.
2. Cradle Airsoft velocity reducer.
3. Yup AEG front and back, gbb or real grips.
4. Ready to go out the box. New Cradle bolt or a V1 bolt with cradle piston and you should be reliable. Hop mods are what it needs most, with TDC mod from Cradle or DIY to be as good as it gets.
5. Several minor ones, one major one the V2 bolt. V1 has differences with early and late ones. Also I've seen a V2 supplied with a V1 upper. Since the bolt is the only major one IMHO then I'd say get a V1 bolt regardless of which version rifle you get.
6. They can be modified to suit but you are better to buy a barrel to suit.
Thanks very much for taking the time to answer my questions.
Just unclear on a few things: on V1s the receiver tabs and lower receiver can ''break''? Break how? Surely replacing the receivers is expensive. Also, what is wrong with the V2 bolt exactly?
Thanks again.
Edit: As for Cradle Airsoft's V.1 bolt, 140$ for a BCG? Really? That seems a bit steep, surely it's cheaper getting a bolt directly from KJW.
So if I get a V.1 I need to replace the receivers, if I get V.2 I need to get a V.1 bolt. Which is cheaper?
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1.What are the major points of eventual failure with this system, if any?
2. Is there a reliable way to get it to shoot sub 1j?
3. What furniture does it take? I assume AEG front end and stock, WA grip?
4. What upgrades are necessary to get this platform more reliable and skirmish ready?
5. What is the difference between Ver. 1 and 2?
6. Can it it take AEG inner barrels?
Please and thank you.
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Since you're essentially taking out all the important CB bits and putting in the OB ones, it shouldn't be an issue. Just make sure to put a shock buffer in the hinge plate so it doesn't crack. If you can, change out the stock hop-up rubber with aftermarket ones. That's it - your gun should be GTG.
Awesome, thanks for the reply.
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Need a bit of advice:
I can get a used, non-working closed-bolt SCAR for 150e, Is it worthwhile getting it and a open-bolt kit? It'll end up costing 200e aprox. Would I need to upgrade anything else to get it Skirmishable? (apart from mags obviously).
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Define effective.
If I had to pick a range at which I could hit a human torso every single time, 20m.
Which is actually quite far in terms of airsoft if you get a tape measure, a target and spend some time shooting at it.
The problem is that it doesn't seem like a great distance compared to people claiming to be able to get headshots at 100m with a vsr-10.
If you follow.
Aye, I'm not looking for anything particularly magical, if I can hit targets at realistic ranges (such as 20m) I'm happy.
Cheers.
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Howaya,
What sort of effective range can I expect from one of these (Irish version shooting at ~320 with GG)?
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I am thinking of picking one of these up. Just wondering what the major issues with these are? I don't mind tinkering with it, but I sure as hell don't want to be spending loads of cash to get it working.
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Marui G17
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Bro, that is awesome. Most paint-jobs of the same vain usually seem tacky to me, but that is badass.
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Snoopy's Initial Impressions on the Tokyo Marui MP7A1 GBB
in Pistols (Gas)
Posted
Soo, any updates? Skirmish reports? Pictures, videos?
Thanks