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Tacitus

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Posts posted by Tacitus

  1. Very nice Nikon!

    I'm also using a cylinder head by Modify, but mine is GB-04-02 Aluminum Cylinder Head for Classic Army AUG/G36C ... I think.

    Seems to work well also.

    Btw, I have used mainly Modify parts for couple of years and they have very good quality. Only problem is there's no good retailer in Europe.

     

    http://www.airsoftworld.net/

     

    They have a bunch of Modify parts.

  2. Oh I wasn't having any problems (or any problems I had I've solved them myself - then reported here back in Dec '10 - finally responded to your old question back then too about piston lengths).

     

    Digging back a little history, my friend did experience lockups as the spring he bought was just too long, and he also misaligned the spring guide during installation. I just remembered it recently in the past few days and thought it worthy mentioning on this forum as something ACR modders need to watch out for.

     

    Woops, somehow I missed your post. Sorry about that. I also totally forgot about my promise to measure pistons, so I'll get on with that shortly. Thanks for reminding me. :rolleyes:

     

    Finally I had time to put things together:

     

    Siegetek torque gears

    5KU 8mm bearings

     

    Thanks for sharing your list, it's good to know of a few more parts which work.

     

    I'd be cautious of using those bushings though, because RiotSC only recommends Modify tempered stainless steel bushings, or ceramic bearings. The gear axles are so hard that they will wear down other bushings over time. Unfortunately I can confirm that neither of Modify's 8mm offerings are compatible with Siegetek gears in the Masada gearbox. My next try would be Kanzen ceramic bearings, but they are known to be fragile so I wouldn't run them hard, if they even fit. But let us know how the 5KU bearings look after a few thousand rounds.

    • Like 1
  3. Now I just THINK you're trying to get on my nerves and make me repeat myself so that you can bash me again, therefore you may answer your own questions.

     

    I'm sorry if you got that impression. All I've been trying to do is clarify what you've been telling us. We are all trying to get the best out of our Masadas, so we need accurate information.

     

    For the gears, he sanded a -little- bit of the gear axles as they were incredibly tight with the bushings.

     

    Aaaah ok. That's interesting, because my stock bushings worked fine with those gears. However, in the past I received a Siegetek bevel gear with an axle that was slightly too thick to fit into any bushing. Apparently there can be imperfections in the coating process. RiotSC is very good about replacing faulty gears though, so manufacturing defects aren't a concern. Other users have reported no problems with Siegetek gears and stock bushings, so yours might be another case of slight manufacturing imperfection from Ares, Siegetek or both.

     

    Now of course one may say that the spring I'm using already is too long that it's preventing the piston from compressing however (you'll have to take my word for it that) I've used the same spring in other V2 mechboxes with a clear Sharp Shooter with no problems.

     

    Sorry, it's been a while and I don't remember what problems you were experiencing. Are you saying you've had gearbox lockups with certain spring/piston combinations?

     

    Nobody has mentioned solid spring length, which is the only measurement you need to think about if you're concerned about spring length causing lockups. Extended spring length tells us little, because different springs are made with different wire thickness. You have to accurately measure the wire diameter, then multiply that by the number of coils to get the solid spring length. Then put your piston of choice into the gearbox along with the sector gear and spring guide. Move the piston to the release position, then measure the distance between the spring guide base and the front inside wall of the piston.

     

    There's plenty of room for the PDI and Guarder springs I've tried (PD1 120/130, Guarder 110-130), but of course I wasn't using the ridiculous weight that came with the stock piston.

     

    Ah I C...ok so it's not necessarily the the gear axles itself then. Did he try other bushings?

     

    Doubt it, I don't see why he would for such a build.

     

    Why on earth would an airsoft tech try other bushings if the ones he's using seem too tight?

     

    Sarcasm over, RiotSC told me the only 8mm bushings you should use with his gears are Modify 8mm tempered stainless steel. His gears are so hard that over time they will wear down softer bushings, so I would regularly inspect the bushing holes to make sure you're not about to destroy something in there.

  4. I guess some people are just not technically minded and don't understand the need for clarity. When it comes to technical matters, I stand by my previous statement: Vague descriptions are useless. Describing technical details in vague terms, the way you continue to do, is a waste of everyone's time.

     

    Your guy is not unique in his pursuit of perfection. All good professional technicians focus in on the smallest details in order to make everything work as well as possible. This is exactly what we're trying to do right now with the Masada, and you claim to have some helpful information about it, but you are unable to communicate it properly.

     

    So now you're suggesting that the gears didn't actually need any modification at all, but your tech decided to sand them anyway?

  5. He said he did not have to do much with the gears, maybe just some work here and there with sandpaper.

     

    Sounds like he's being intentionally vague. I hate it when professionals try to hide stuff from their clients. It happens all the time unfortunately... People try to make the job sound more complicated in order to justify a higher fee.

     

    I guess the 'gear modification' thing is BS. Besides "maybe just some work here and there with sandpaper" is about as useless as you can get.

  6. Sorry, didn't feel it necessary to comment on a place where the only interest is to criticize everything one has to say and look at all possible fault in it. I responded nevertheless.dry.gif

     

    I'll be sure to post of any info I get about the gears here and there when I get it.

     

    ASM is about sharing information accurately. Everything has to be scrutinised, it's nothing personal. If you try to present misleading or vague statements as facts, it will get noticed. For that reason, it contains a goldmine of useful information which you can read.

     

    Anyway, I'm looking forward to hearing about what your tech did to your gears!

  7. its one of the best and most natural feeling AEGs I've ever laid my hands on.

     

    Me too :D

     

    I tried contacting Magpul PTS but they won't sell a lower receiver part only. Figured I could ask here to see if anyone knows where I might be able to get one without having to buy a whole gun.

     

    I don't think spares are available, which is a shame because it's been out for a while now.

     

    Piston would not go in whatsoever (and he tried several, trying more this week). And he mentioned doing something to the gears a while back but he didn't mention it again when I asked him about them, but I directly asked about the gears so I should have an answer for that in a bit.

     

    Lol! So why did you include the piston in your parts list?

  8. Thanks! Good to be able to add some more parts to the compatible list.

     

    I have a few questions: Did the piston go in at all? If so, specifically what modification was needed? If not, why is it on the list?

     

    Also, you mentioned over on ASM that the gears required modification. Can you specify what needed doing exactly?

  9. I can get information from my tech about what he did to what to make it fit.

     

    That would be wonderful!

     

    As of right now all I know is that all aftermarket pistons were too big making it impossible to pull back.

     

    So where did 32 RPS at 410 FPS come from?

     

    I'd have to disagree with that statement...I'm running an unmodded red Element in my ACR at the moment.

     

    Finally someone with some useful information! What else have you got running in your Masada? How's the performance?

  10. No need to get so heated up Tacitus. I'm sure we could ask hmg to get his tech on this forum and ASM. How about that hmg?

     

    I'm not heated up, I'm just keen to keep useless information out of this thread. There are many problems that are unique to this gun only, and we need to figure out with as much accuracy as possible how to get the most out of it.

  11. I never claimed I built my masada...

    ]I put an AWS Pulse mosfet in it, and a bunch of other upgrades ending me at 410 fps at 32 rps. Not bad from a torque motor and a low powered 11.1v lipo ^_^

     

    You appear to be suggesting that upgrading the Masada is as easy as any other AEG. What you don't seem to have understood is that the Masada is off the standard TM spec. This means that most aftermarket parts need careful selection and/or modification in order to become compatible. If you had worked on your gun personally, you would have realised this.

  12. Yah, I can do simple things inside the gearbox but I leave the building to him. He doesn't just upgrade, he does every single thing he can to make it perform optimally.

     

    The only reason anyone is talking about AEG tuning in this thread is that the PTS Masada is off-spec enough to introduce problems unique to this gun. Claiming you personally built yourself a great Masada doesn't help anyone figure out how to overcome these unique problems, because you didn't actually build it yourself and therefore don't know exactly what has gone into making it run nicely.

     

    I posted a reply to your post over on ASM by the way.

  13. I just spent about 3 hours reading through this topic as I am the new owner of a Magpul PTS Masada. I see that a number of you have had the same issue that I have regarding the hop-up shooting to the left or the right from the factory. However, I could NOT find a solution to this. Could somebody Please please please tell me how to correct this or direct me to a page where I can find this? I have no idea what to do.

    Thanks so much for your help and I apologize if I am beating a dead horse.

     

    First, set you hopup to minimum. Then remove the outer barrel, then from that take out the inner barrel. At one end of the inner barrel there's a rubber cylinder that fits over the barrel, this is called the bucking. Inside the bucking there is a mound which is supposed to sit inside the barrel (there is a window cut into the barrel for this purpose). As a BB is fired, the mount is the thing which causes the BB to spin, so the mound must be aligned with the exact top of the barrel. But if the mound is somehow malformed you will need a new bucking, so take a good look at the mound to make sure it looks even. If it looks okay, you can put it back on the barrel, making sure it's at the exact top of the barrel, then carefully re-assemble the rest of the gun. If the problem persists, you will need to disassemble the hopup chamber using a roll pin punch to inspect and possibly modify it. Although if you're unfamiliar with tuning AEG hopups I'd just take it to a tech who knows their way around a Masada.

  14. All modern airsoft motor designs use neodymium magnets. Ferrite motors are obsolete and to compare the two makes no sense.

     

    Yes you can achieve good ROF with a torque motor, but at medium power levels you can use a HS motor with no loss of trigger response. All neo motors give relatively high torque.

    • Like 1
  15. ...but is there a downside, like wear on gears or battery?

     

    As with all high performance builds there is less margin for error when tuning. But if you're good at tuning and you use the right parts, you can happily run a gun at high speed for a very long time.

  16. So what's the downside of a high torque motor with a 120 spring, especially if very high ROF might not be your primary goal?

     

    The only reason for using one at that power level would be if you wanted to deliberately keep the ROF down, but that goal would be better achieved using a lower voltage battery or a computerized mosfet with ROF control. Modern neodymium magnet high speed motors can provide plenty of speed AND torque at the mild power levels being discussed.

  17. Thanks guys.

    The local pro-shop here is getting in some SRC motors next week. Any experience with those?

     

    High torque but overpriced. Seriously, the SHS/Element high speed motor is great and has plenty of torque for an M120 spring.

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