Tacitus
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Posts posted by Tacitus
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Can't put these pics directly into the post for some reason.
All pics (once on the page, sort by 'newest' for the correct order)
1 Flip up the front sight.
2 Remove the front sight hinge pin (pictured) by pushing it out.
3 The sight will easily slide off at this point, along with the spring.
5 The locking pin can now slide out of the upper receiver. If your does not slide out easily, try gently tapping it out with the dummy round included with your ACR.
Please let me know if this helps at all. I'm surprised people have had trouble with it. Maybe you guys have a slightly different design?
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Hmmm.... the locking pin doesn't seem like it would slide out as it has wide tips on each end. Tonight I'll try unscrewing one end or the other. Otherwise I'm just cutting one of the tips off, as I doubt I'll ever want to put it back, and if I do, I can just replace the pin with something else.
Have you actually tried to slide it out? Mine is wider on the left hand side only, allowing it to easily slide out to the left.
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Anyone know how to remove the release pin for the front site?
I see how to remove the pivot pin, but not the release pin (I tried screwing the handle).
The only other way I can tell is to cut the release pin off (which I'd rather not do, yet).
I want to remove the front site completely as I'm installing an MBUS front site instead.
The release pin is blocking me from putting the MBUS 1 or two slots forward.
1. Punch out the front sight hinge pin. The spring will fall free at this point.
2. Slide off the front sight.
3. Slide the locking pin out to the left. Mine slides out easily, but if yours doesn't try gently tapping it out with your dummy round.
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Ok, thanks
A bit off-topic, but this is the first time I've heard of a UK-specific version of an airsoft gun. Do other guns pass RoHS tests and the Masada was just not good enough? Or do other companies also make UK specific versions but don't label them as such?
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Do you have any more details of how the paint differs on the UK version?
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Thanks for that Scuffer! Nice to have visual proof Airsoft Armoury were talking nonsense.
Should be receiving my UK spec Masada tomorrow.
I'll be keen to find out exactly how it's different from the other versions... -
plenty of lube.
Might be the problem if it's inside the bucking. You obviously want friction between the bucking and BB.
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Yeah, the wire Anakchan linked is stiffer than other wire, but it can still be bent into any shape just like other wire. The difference is that it keeps its shape well, so making twisted pairs (helpful for recuding voltage spikes) is much easier and the twisted wire doesn't need any exta heathshrink to stay in shape.
I prefer it because it's 2/3rds the thickness of normal wire, the insulation is very tough and won't get sliced easily like silicon insulation will (when accidentally pinching a wire for example), and it's also highly heat resistant so soldering won't melt the insulation near the solder joint.
Just looking at the measurements again, the 12AWG version of this wire is 2.97mm, about the same thickness as standard silicon insulated 16AWG wire
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I emailed Airsoft Armoury asking if the Masadas they have in stock are the UK version, this is the response I got:
"Hi,
Magpul have no knowledge of a UK Spec version. We are assuming the UK distributor (Edgar Bros) is changing the wiring due to RoSH compliancy and stamping the 30 day warranty card with their details. We are supply a 12 month warranty ourselves (will still have a 30 day warranty with Magpul), ours have no RoSH compliancy issues and ours dont need a spring change as they are already doing 330-340 fps out of the box.
Kind regards, A2"
Can someone clarify exactly what the 'UK spec' Masada is exactly?
There already seem to be 2 different versions (1 with 'Made in Hong Kong' engraved on the side, 1 without). We have also been told that the UK version will have some sort of holographic sticker, and shoot 328fps.
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Super not happy with my MASADA today, put battery in, it fires sometimes in semi (cannot hear trigger click when it does not fire), in full auto it fires a 3 to 5 round burst when the lower is in the body out of the body it fires fine in full-auto but still intermitent in semi.
I just can't seem to catch a break with new guns so far.
Sounds like some terrible QC issues with this thing. I'd complain directly to Magpul PTS, maybe they'll rethink their choice of manafacturer for future runs.
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Good detective work! I'm very glad to hear it's a simple case of missing parts rather than a design flaw.
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Great photos! Thanks for sharing
The second to the last tooth had been shaved as to help prevent premature engagement.
Did you or the manafacturer shave the piston tooth?
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Sounds like a tuning issue with your g36....
Yeah there's still work to do, but 22 RPS 320 FPS with a 7.4V LiPo is fine for now. The main issue comes from having to keep the FPS below 328, as the weaker the spring, the greater the chance of pre-engagement.
Angle of engagement modifications is a huge part in tuning guns for high cyclic rate.
Absolutely. In fact it's an excellent modification to improve piston longevity and should be done to all guns. My point was that AOE can't eliminate the possibility of premature engagement. It's a different issue.
If you want a higher rof for your g36...consider the sc dual sector gear...with p90s those things could get the rof up to 77 rounds a second
Maybe one day. It's definitely the way to go for extreme ROF, but my current goal is only 30 RPS. Once I'm broed with that I'll probably try to get to 40
Sorry this has been off topic. To bring it back on topic, does anyone know what ratio the Masada's stock gears are?
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I've ran at least a thousand rounds using lipo on semi and full. No noticeable wear on the piston indicating the so called pre engagement.
That's great to hear. I'd be afraid of trying an 11.1V LiPo but since you've had success with yours I'll definitely use one when I get my Masada.
You could always correct the angle of engagement to totally eliminate pre engagement issues...
Correct AOE won't prevent premature engagement. It's possible to have the gears spin so fast that they engage teeth in the middle of the rack. This is why I can't use an 11.1V LiPo in my G36. It eats the 6th-2nd piston teeth.
The stock motor doesn't sound like the fastest one available, but it doesn't sound bad. I'd love to know if it's a standard Ares model or what. I wonder if anyone has broken their motor in before firing the gun.
So far....zero issues with my gun. Gun feeds without skipping using toytec .25g bbs and NO sector chip installed.
Glad to hear it! I'm getting excited about receiving mine...
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You can get pre-engagement anywhere along the piston tooth rack, depending on the speed of the system. But it's great to know that it can take an 11.1v LiPo OOTB and survive at least a few hundred rounds!
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Ooh let me know how you get on with the 11.1V LiPo! It would be awesome if there are no pre-engagement issues out of the box
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Is there a part of the outer barrel which can be wrapped in a little teflon tape or something to steady it?
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This is not a replica of any current production weapon.
You're right, it's not a replica. It is a production weapon. A genuine Magpul Professional Training & Simulation (PTS) Masada.
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Well he wasn't speculating. Speculating would be "The RS one locks, but I'm not sure."
He was pointing out what he found missing on his own rifle.
Yes. And I was speculating as to the reason for that. Is there a problem?
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My front sight is as flush with the rail as possible. But I find it a bit strange that the flip up release isnt spring loaded, so that when yopu press the sight down again, it locks automatically, like the MBUS rear sight. I don´t know how the real steel works so..
This is pure speculation, but maybe it's designed so that it can't be locked down accidentally, by a branch for example.
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Why not just use a LiPo? Surely there's enough space for a good sized 7.4v which will easily match a 9.6v nimh performance wise. First thing I'll do when I grab mine is solder on a deans connector and slap a LiPo in
Absolutely, and the bigger the better
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No, I am afraid not. If placed on the barrel locking/unlocking handle there is no room except forward. If you remove the handle I think you would gain about 5mm in height OR a pair of millimetres in width. Due to the shape of the handguard, a wider battery will have to sit higher, which is impossible if the handle is there. The bottom of the handguard is perfectly shaped for the mini battery. I wonder how it will fit if I put my MVG there.
Ok, thanks that's good to know. I wonder if the barrel locking handle can be cut down to allow for a larger battery. Although I wouldn't expect anyone to do this to such a new gun, it would be interesting to know if it's possible. I'm still saving for mine so I can't look at one myself yet
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Nicely written, thanks for that!
I have a question about the battery space: Apart from the length, is there much extra space above and to the sides of your battery? Most larger batteries appear to be wider and taller instead of longer.
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LOL, thanks! I feel like a lucky SOB too
. I wish I could spend more time with it, but I have another Tactical Carbine class this weekend and I have to get ready for that instead.Tacitus, the gun came in the default 5.56mm configuration that everyone else will be getting. PTS generous included the other items for me to review along with it. No idea about internal tracer unit space ... it doesn't use a normal V2 hopup so a internal tracer will either need to be a home brew design, or if PTS ever came out with their own.
It looks like you might be able to drill holes in the feed tube for mounting LEDs, like with a G36. If you get round to taking more pics at any point, I'd love to see some details of the feed tube/hopup/nozzle area.
Also I'm keen to know the dimensions of the battery compartment. It looks like it might take a slightly larger battery than the standard 'mini' size...?
I'd also love to know if anyone is planning to run a LiPo battery in the gun in it's stock configuration. From what we've seen of the internals so far it looks like they can take it, but it would be great to know for sure whether it's 'LiPo ready' OOTB.
Now that production models are out, I'm sure there will be dozens more questions from potential owners...
MagPul PTS MASADA ACR
in Rifles (AEG)
Posted
Received my UK-spec Masada last week, with 1 free Pmag kindly thrown in from Dingodogs.
I'm extremely impressed with the material and build quality. The polymer is gorgeous stuff, seemingly better quality than the Pmags with a slightly more shiny or 'waxy' appearance, and a more complex, deeper texture. The polymer seems very tough and has a nice, dense feel to it. Yes there are mold lines visible, but they're not excessive or ugly and don't detract from the quality at all in my opinion.
The CNC upper is one very solid piece of metal. It's clearly been made to tight tolarances. I think the fact that it's been painted slightly reduces the precise appearance of the upper, but only when you look very closely. It's a very nice part of the gun and gives the whole thing a beautifully solid structure. The outer barrel is a beautiful part too. Very solid, very high quality work. Not sure what process has been used to colour the outer barrel and gas tube, but it has a gorgeous satin finish.
Some people have said the gun is light, but personally I think the weight is perfect. It's light enough that I'm be able to skirmish it all day, but heavy enough to make it feel solid and sturdy. Certainly lighter than some other guns, but this is also due to the way the weight is petfectly balanced. It's very ergonomic and feels completely natural to shoulder. Lucky for me the fixed stock is the perfect length, and feels very solid. Mine came with a sling point already attached, although the design is different to the separately sold Mapgul PTS sling point.
As a showpiece it's stunning, but I bought this gun as an upgrade platform so the crucial test for me is whether it can be elevated to high performance. There's room for an internal tracer unit, as well as the electronics I've designed to run the tracer on any battery. I found that the barrel lever is removable, so there's actually plenty of room in the handguard for electronics.
Upon disassembly, it becomes clear that a lot of work is needed to gain serious performance from this gun.
I have no interest in running a stock gun, and wanted to take out the motor brushes to put into my own motor, so I never fired it in it's stock form. Even though I can't comment on the performance out of the box, visually inspecting the internals is very revealing.
Wiring
The soldering was ok, but not great. Tamiya connector is disappointing but not surprising. The gearbox has been designed so that the wires run through the gearbox shell itself. This makes the installation of a mosfet quite tricky, as there isn't much room for extra wires. The major obstacle that the wires must avoid is the magazine release. I ended up making some plastic blocks to glue onto each side of the gearbox to keep the wires out of the way, allowing the mag release to function normally.
Another obstacle to overcome when installing extra wires is the fact that the gearbox is held into the lower receiver via ONE screw only. This means that the gearbox is not held firmly in place and can therefore be pushed out of alignment by the extra wires. So, before perfecting the reassembly process, the ejection port cover would bind on the top of the gearbox.
Microswitch/Trigger
The microswitch says it's rated for only 15A which is quite low, so it wouldn't last long if used with a high performance battery and motor combination without a mosfet. So while the microswitch is a nice idea, it's a half-baked one and something of a liability when upgrading. It doesn't provide much physical resistance, so you can't feel a nice, crisp click (although you can hear it). In fact, the design of the trigger is such that a trigger pull actually releases the switch, so installing a stronger microswitch wouldn't improve it. The trigger itself is let down hugely by the fire selector design becasue when reassembling the gun, it's very difficult to correctly align the selector gears with the lower receiver. This is a part which actually requires some 'tuning' to get right, which could have been so easily avoided with a better design. The trigger does seem to be very sensitive to slight fire-selector movement, bizzarely requiring a stronger trigger pull in certain positions. Definitely needs some learning to get right.
Motor
The motor doesn't use the strong neodymium magnets found in high performance motors, so this would be one of the first things to replace. The best motors can be bought for around $20, so it's a disappointment that the gun doesn't include one.
Anti-Reversal Latch
I had problems with the stock ARL. I'm not sure exactly what was wrong with it, as it didn't appear to be binding on anything, but there was audible backspin until I replaced it.
Gears
I reaplaced the stock gears immediately, so I can't comment on their performance or durability. It was disappointing to see that the bevel gear only has 4 ARL teeth.
Tappet Plate
The gun did not feed at first. Not at all. When manually inserting a BB into the barrel, the power was awful. It turned out to be a malformed tappet plate not allowing the nozzle to make contact with the bucking. I had to shave off a little material from the tappet plate. Feeding improved slightly, but I had to install a sector clip to allow the gun to feed reliably.
Air Nozzle
The air nozzle has no o-ring, meaning it does not form a proper air seal with the cylinder head nozzle. This affects power and consistency, which is disappointing for such an expensive gun. It wouldn't be a problem if the nozzle itself was a standard part, but as far as I know it's a unique design. At 3cm long it's enormous. If anyone knows of an air seal nozzle which works in this gun, please let me know!
Piston/Piston head
I haven't tested it, but there's an air bubble visible inside the pickup tooth so I wouldn't want to put any strain on the piston. The piston came with a huge metal weight inside it (which is of course the opposite of what we want), and of course the angle of engagement hadn't been corrected. The O-ring was too big, causing excess friction on the back stroke so it had to be replaced.
Cylinder/Cylinder head
The cylinder isn't ported, but power is good enough so I haven't spent money on perfecting the barrel/cylinder volume yet. The cylinder itself seems great, and forms a perfect air seal.
Spring guide
This part is another major disappointment along with the air nozzle. It has no bearing, just a simple metal washer. Again this would be fine if it weren't a unique design. And again, if anyone knows of an aftermarket bearing spring guide which will fit please let me know. The quick spring change feature itself is very nice. Quickly changing springs isn't something I plan on doing, but it makes assembly and disassembly much easier, as you never have to fight against the main spring tension. For this reason, installing a high power spring would be trivial.
Everything in the gearbox was severley overlubed with some sort of very thick gunge, as with most stock AEGs. I forgot to check the shimming so I can't comment on it. I immediately replaced the bushings/bearings so I can't comment on them either. I haven't done extensive range testing so I can't yet tell if the hopup design or stock barrel are good enough, but the integrated nub does concern me.
Self-retaining body pins
A small detail, but the little clips holding in the body pins makes working on this gun an absolute pleasure. They snap into position with a really satisfying click, and having 4 less things to keep track of is awesome. Although the clips can come loose so be careful!
Iron sights
The integrated front sight is strange, as it eats into the paintwork if allowed to spring into position. Otherwise it's a nice, solid sight which is adjustable. The rear sight is really beautiful.
Sling mounts
The multitude of sling mount points is a very nice feature. The gun comes with 3 quick detach mount points, which can all be mounted on one side of the gun if you choose.
As an upgrade platform this guns is fine, but the proprietary spring guide and air nozzle are the 2 major problems. The ability to use most other standard parts makes it good enough, and if a decent air nozzle and spring guide are made available then nothing inside the gearbox could hold it back.
There's a lot to be desired from the gearbox in it's stock form, and there are a couple of irritating design choices, but overall I'm really happy with the gun. I haven't been able to put it down since I got it, it just feels so nice and solid.