Tacitus

Is there really a fault with the folding stock preventing it from fitting to the body? If so, surely Magpul PTS need to recall the faulty stocks and replace them with working ones. It should be a matter of urgency if a product is released for sale with inherent faults. Can we hear from more people with first hand experience/knowledge of this issue?

Ah, brilliant. I'll order some roll pin punches then... +1 for you!

Thanks for such a detailed response My wording of the last question was unclear, I actually meant to ask if the hopup housing block itself is firmly held in place after reassembly?

Actually I'm planning to start offering custom built internal tracer units as an upgrade service in the near future, with a solid design that I've spent some time developing. If there's enough interest from overseas, I might also offer kits for people to install themselves.

Good to know it's actually possible. I have a few more questions for you! I assume these are standard roll pin punches? Do you know which size is the best fit for the Masada? Were you able to avoid damaging the paintwork around the roll pins? Did reassembly go smoothly? And lastly, is the hopup assembly still firmly held in place after being reinstalled into the body? No wobble or anything like that? The reason I'm so curious is because I'm working on an internal tracer unit for the gun. I've installed some LEDs around the feeding tube and it works great, but I want to put 2 mor

Thanks I didn't plan on writing that much, but I got quite into it. It was very late so apologies for any spelling errors! I forgot to mention that the hopup assembly is held in place by two roll pins, which are very difficult to remove. If anyone has any tips on how to remove them, please let me know!

Received my UK-spec Masada last week, with 1 free Pmag kindly thrown in from Dingodogs. I'm extremely impressed with the material and build quality. The polymer is gorgeous stuff, seemingly better quality than the Pmags with a slightly more shiny or 'waxy' appearance, and a more complex, deeper texture. The polymer seems very tough and has a nice, dense feel to it. Yes there are mold lines visible, but they're not excessive or ugly and don't detract from the quality at all in my opinion. The CNC upper is one very solid piece of metal. It's clearly been made to tight tolarances. I think

Can't put these pics directly into the post for some reason. All pics (once on the page, sort by 'newest' for the correct order) 1 Flip up the front sight. 2 Remove the front sight hinge pin (pictured) by pushing it out. 3 The sight will easily slide off at this point, along with the spring. 4 5 The locking pin can now slide out of the upper receiver. If your does not slide out easily, try gently tapping it out with the dummy round included with your ACR. 6 Please let me know if this helps at all. I'm surprised people have had trouble with it. Maybe you guys have a slightly

Have you actually tried to slide it out? Mine is wider on the left hand side only, allowing it to easily slide out to the left.

1. Punch out the front sight hinge pin. The spring will fall free at this point. 2. Slide off the front sight. 3. Slide the locking pin out to the left. Mine slides out easily, but if yours doesn't try gently tapping it out with your dummy round.

Ok, thanks A bit off-topic, but this is the first time I've heard of a UK-specific version of an airsoft gun. Do other guns pass RoHS tests and the Masada was just not good enough? Or do other companies also make UK specific versions but don't label them as such?

Do you have any more details of how the paint differs on the UK version?

Thanks for that Scuffer! Nice to have visual proof Airsoft Armoury were talking nonsense. Should be receiving my UK spec Masada tomorrow. I'll be keen to find out exactly how it's different from the other versions...

Might be the problem if it's inside the bucking. You obviously want friction between the bucking and BB.

Yeah, the wire Anakchan linked is stiffer than other wire, but it can still be bent into any shape just like other wire. The difference is that it keeps its shape well, so making twisted pairs (helpful for recuding voltage spikes) is much easier and the twisted wire doesn't need any exta heathshrink to stay in shape. I prefer it because it's 2/3rds the thickness of normal wire, the insulation is very tough and won't get sliced easily like silicon insulation will (when accidentally pinching a wire for example), and it's also highly heat resistant so soldering won't melt the insulation near

I emailed Airsoft Armoury asking if the Masadas they have in stock are the UK version, this is the response I got: "Hi, Magpul have no knowledge of a UK Spec version. We are assuming the UK distributor (Edgar Bros) is changing the wiring due to RoSH compliancy and stamping the 30 day warranty card with their details. We are supply a 12 month warranty ourselves (will still have a 30 day warranty with Magpul), ours have no RoSH compliancy issues and ours dont need a spring change as they are already doing 330-340 fps out of the box. Kind regards, A2" Can someone clarify exactly

Sounds like some terrible QC issues with this thing. I'd complain directly to Magpul PTS, maybe they'll rethink their choice of manafacturer for future runs.

Good detective work! I'm very glad to hear it's a simple case of missing parts rather than a design flaw.

Great photos! Thanks for sharing Did you or the manafacturer shave the piston tooth?

Yeah there's still work to do, but 22 RPS 320 FPS with a 7.4V LiPo is fine for now. The main issue comes from having to keep the FPS below 328, as the weaker the spring, the greater the chance of pre-engagement. Absolutely. In fact it's an excellent modification to improve piston longevity and should be done to all guns. My point was that AOE can't eliminate the possibility of premature engagement. It's a different issue. Maybe one day. It's definitely the way to go for extreme ROF, but my current goal is only 30 RPS. Once I'm broed with that I'll probably try to get to 40

That's great to hear. I'd be afraid of trying an 11.1V LiPo but since you've had success with yours I'll definitely use one when I get my Masada. Correct AOE won't prevent premature engagement. It's possible to have the gears spin so fast that they engage teeth in the middle of the rack. This is why I can't use an 11.1V LiPo in my G36. It eats the 6th-2nd piston teeth. The stock motor doesn't sound like the fastest one available, but it doesn't sound bad. I'd love to know if it's a standard Ares model or what. I wonder if anyone has broken their motor in before firing the gun.

You can get pre-engagement anywhere along the piston tooth rack, depending on the speed of the system. But it's great to know that it can take an 11.1v LiPo OOTB and survive at least a few hundred rounds!

Ooh let me know how you get on with the 11.1V LiPo! It would be awesome if there are no pre-engagement issues out of the box

Is there a part of the outer barrel which can be wrapped in a little teflon tape or something to steady it?

You're right, it's not a replica. It is a production weapon. A genuine Magpul Professional Training & Simulation (PTS) Masada.