kojak

Anyone notice the Condor version, should be out next month. I never thought I would be looking forward to a Condor product, but it looks good. If it doesn't fit or plain sucks I can always return or exchange it. The fleece is half the price, if you like to be soft and fuzzy.

AHhh freaking Evike, I was counting on that stock charging handle for a game this weekend and they just now send me the dreaded "one or more of the items you ordered is out of stock". What if I put a layer of epoxy inside the grove of my DPMS handle?

Ahh, I like the thought that my issues are related. I don't think leaking is the problem, since I ran out of gas on all eight CO2 mags. What if the channel in the DPMS charging handle is too deep rather than too shallow? Could that cause the gun to use more gas?

Thanks, that's a pretty good idea. I'm probably just going to get another disposable WE handle and save the DPMS as a backup for when it breaks. I loaded up all eight of my CO2 mags for a game yesterday, and at the start of the first mission I was put in charge of a small assault team. Guided by a hidden recon element, we quietly took up a flanking position and waited for the perfect moment to spring our trap. I gave the order to charge, and instead of a mighty burst my WE gave out a pathetic hiss and a single BB dripped out of the barrel. I dropped under a bush to reload, and the nex

I thought it might be #66 causing extra friction, but it looks more like the bolt assembly isn't pressing back (or down) quite as much as it used to. Could the DPMS charging handle be causing this? It worked perfectly before I installed it. Maybe the edge of the hook is a hair further forward, stopping the bolt assembly from retracting any further?

I've got a pair of Timberland Urban Force boots on the way, dig that crazy coyote camo: I love the support, comfort, and grip of my Condor desert boots (Converse knockoffs) but I wanted something darker for Multicam and PMC style loadouts. I was about to get the higher Jungle version, but figured the mid-height would be more versatile for non-airsoft use.

FYI the Element WA "tac latch" needed a bit of filing at the hook to catch reliably, but seems well worth the nine bucks. I finally got the mil-spec charging handle working (I think), but now the valve striker doesn't want to retract all the way when I manually charge the bolt. When I open it up and cock the action by hand, the roller in the lower needs to be pushed just the slightest bit further down for the striker to retract. The gun cycles fine under its own power, and if I rack the handle very sharply the extra momentum will sometimes do the trick. What could be causing this

That DPMS handle is driving me nuts! I've dremeled and sanded it just about everywhere. I started off by reshaping the nubs, but it turns out that the shaft itself is both a little too tall and a little too wide. It's still sticking due to a mysterious wide spot somewhere. On the bright side the hook seems to be grabbing the bolt OK without installing any roll pins. And my Element tac latch showed up. It does seem to be made of steel but the finish is every bit as bad as it looks on the EBB website.

I was kinda hoping it was those nubs and not the entire width of the shaft, but the difference must be extremely small. Thanks for saving me some random sanding. Did you add a roll pin to the "hook" like the wiki advises? I was thinking of using two side by side, to distribute the force a little better. I don't like the idea of all that pressure on one little point. I ordered one of these latches, and I'm hoping it's actually made of steel. My stock WE latch broke at the pin about a week before the charging handle itself snapped.

Has anyone who installed a "real" charging handle had trouble installing it? My DPMS handle gets stuck when I try to move it forward, but comparing it to the broken WE handle I can't see any difference in the dimensions.

It's up to personal preference, but I don't think it's a good idea to attach your belt to your vest. Your vest moves with your upper body and a belt should sit on your hips. If they are connected it is that much harder to move. To answer your question there are some (non plate carrier) vests with loops for a pistol belt. Also Blackhawk makes this nifty thing to connect the belt strap of a thigh holster to your vest, which causes the same problems with movement.

This thread needs more suede:

Mementos of my old toys: I don't trust myself with sportbikes anymore after a few "incidents" with the CHP, but I do miss the convenience of a bike for cruising around California. Now I'm after one of these:

Quick update on the fogging issue; I ditched the fan and drilled some extra holes in the mouth and a row of holes in the eyebrow area. Played indoors all day at over 100 degrees, with the mask worn over a UA Tactical Heatgear baklava. The inner pads were soaked with sweat but the lenses never fogged. I still wouldn't use it outdoors unless a mask was required by site rules, but I can finally throw out the paintball mask I keep for CQB.

I got one of these in FDE from LAPG a part of a larger order, since it was on clearance. It's nice but a little small, like a tactical bra. I'd like this if it could be clipped to a hydration carrier and a cummerbund with built-in bungee pouches.

Heads up my fellow Americans, AEX's Labor Day discount applies to the presale MP7: http://www.airsoftextreme.com/store/index....roducts_id=4459 Free shipping as well I believe. It would be nice to wait until the issues are resolved, but waiting is no fun.

In that case, WELL worth the $30 for WE owners (if it fits). Locking the bolt back would no longer require three hands, plus I won't have to pop the last bb from each mag after loading. I'm about to order my UBR, but I don't know whether to stick with black or go two-tone. How bad would an FDE UBR look with this or this?

My WE works best when I insert a mag with both the bolt and the firing pin locked back--which is a royal PITA in the field if the bolt didn't lock back for whatever reason. Sometimes I hold the bottom of the "ping-pong paddle" while working the charging handle; which locks the bolt/nozzle to the rear so the mag seats perfectly. Can the BAD engage the bolt release as well as releasing it?

Not my cup of tea either, but it's not so bad on a DMR, like so.

If you are going to RIS up your M16 you might as well get a tacti-cool sniper stock. I'm still on the hunt for the fake UBR myself. Am I wrong, or does the lowly AirSplat currently have the lowest price in the U.S. for the CO2 mags? I need several more, so I'm willing to go with the lowest bidder.

My Aimpoint Micro does the same thing sometimes. If that's the only issue, I can probably just replace the switch with a small pushbutton toggle.

Has anyone tried a tracer unit on a WE, specifically the TM V2 or the JG clone?

I bought a cheap Tango Down grip made for the WA and drilled the hole myself. Would have been a lot easier with a drill press and a clamp, but I just used a cordless drill and took my time. I also somehow managed to fit a DBoys tear drop trigger guard, but it wasn't worth all the Dremeling.

For whatever reason I haven't noticed any overhop with any BB weight. I got my best groups at 100 feet with Bioval BBBMax .27s by a wide margin when tested against several other brands in the .25-.30 range. Can't wait to try some heavier stuff. I have the short chrome barrel installed; what kind of accuracy and FPS boost can I expect from the standard length barrel?

Yes, I have it on mine and it fits very well. Not 100% wobble free like the $100 locking version, but much better than the stock stock. FYI you can use any mil-spec "real steel" stock, or any airsoft stock that does not replace the buffer tube.