Bonjour43ma

Does anyone know which internal parts are made of steel? I think the charging handle is but what about other parts?

After some DIY on the barrel, RIS, front sight, and the rear pin hole on the upper, I can honestly say that my gun is 99% wobble free, even after tons of automatic shooting after I've tightened things up just this past weekend. The last 1% movement is from the mag but that is acceptable since the small movement will help in making the output valve on the mag line up properly with the bottom part of the nozzle. I wish I could get you to hold my AGM because it feels like one solid piece of metal welded together. It is THAT solid and free of any wobbling, no BS. These are the things

so are you saying that it's not worth the time to try to fix these AGM mags and that I should just get some WA, GHK, or Bomber mags instead? btw, woot! I found the bolt catch piece that had broken off of the bolt carrier! what a miracle. Going to superglue it back on and see how long it'll last.

Update after about 400 rounds: 1. bolt catch piece on the bolt carrier has broken off. I see a small hole there now and have had to file it down since it mushroomed and was pushing against the upper. 2. mag has started leaking 3. barrel nut came loose fixes for the above problems: - disable bolt catch mechanism temporarily until a new bolt carrier is replaced - will replace all o-rings in the mag. I've already taken the mag apart and then lubed all the factory o-rings but that didn't help. looks like one of the smaller o-rings is all twisted and curled up and maybe where

I see, so it's safer to knock it out from the left hand side (bolt release switch side) and slowly push the pin out?

wow lots of great info guys. Now, to re-position the hammer lock spring, can I just knock out the selector lever pin and then flip the spring around? There is a small white plastic c-ring to the right of the lower reciver - is that at the wrong position as well?

ah... so I can't remove it with the front sight still on the barrel? Something to do with the tension from the two other pins above it? Will give it a try... thanks!

Also... I cannot, for the life of me, knock out the pin at the base of the front sight that holds the sling attachment ring. It just won't come out no matter how hard I hit it with a hammer. Any tips on how to remove it? I don't use a sling and hate the "clank clank" sound that the sling ring makes when you move the gun around. Thanks!

hey - I did what you had described and there is no movement. The hop unit doesn't move at all either from the hop dial (pushing back) or towards the barrel (pushing forward). Is it supposed to move a little? The hop rubber seems to function properly as I can see it raise up and down as I turn the dial. BBs don't roll out of the barrel either when I point the gun downwards. I also noticed a few things: - there is a hole on the stock hop-up bucking. Do I need to seal it to improve gas efficiency? - the rail on the top receiver dones't line up with the top rail on the RIS. The RIS

Hey no problem - I'll need even more help from you guys in the near future when I start tinkering with internal components. I'm just a total freak when it comes to the solidness of these all metal guns and it bugs the HELL out of me if something feels wobbly when it's not supposed to. Anyhow, in addition to the tab mod I also had to do something to the bottom RIS plate to make it 100% wobble-free. The bottom notch on the delta ring that engages the barrel nut was acutally in contact with the bottom RIS plate, so the delta ring was never able to completely push forward to tightly cla

Thanks Luis. I believe I had just resolved the issue with my loose RIS : There is a small tab that sticks out at the bottom of the front sight when looking at the end with the gas tube hole (this may be particular to the RIS version only), and it was broken off. Originally I thought it was just a scratch mark on the front sight where the tab should have been, but upon further investigation I figured out that a tab should have been there to connect into the bottom front end of the RIS to secure it from sliding or spinning left and right (if you look into the top RIS plate you'll see 3 hole

lots of great info here, guys. Just got mine yesterday (062 RIS version) and spent the first hour or so tightening the front barrel and the rear stock (I'm slow... this is my first GBB rifle so I'm very careful with the parts ). The RIS version has a fake gas tube and that thing made taking off the top RIS plate a pain in the butt because the gas tube acutally goes THROUGH the front end of the top RIS plate so you have to remove the flash hider and front sight assembly before you can have clear access to the barrel nut. Anyway, I was able to tighten the rear buffer tube and added some b

lots of great info in this thread... I ordered my RIS 062 version and will be getting it soon. will make sure that I lube everything, tighten all screws, and make sure everything's seated properly before even taking a shot with it.