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hwagan

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Posts posted by hwagan

  1. Do you know what Prime hop chamber you were having problems with? Did it have sealing problems like the IA one? Also, was the IA one a version 2? Thanks.

     

     

    The one I had issues with was the Prime WA barrel rear adjust chamber - The stock rubber was a bit too hard for the FPS I'm running, so I went to change it - Unfortunately, the front and rear halves of the unit were fitted so tightly together they couldn't be separated, at least without a specialist tool. Trying to pry the two halves of the unit apart damaged it beyond repair unfortunately.

     

    The Iron Airsoft one was indeed the latest type - 1004G I believe is the product code. Despite numerous different buckings, I couldn't get it to seal at all - The BB's were dropping feet in front of the muzzle, which was somewhat irritating to say the least!

     

    Saying that, the Prime WA barrel type unit fitted and sealed nicely, so the next step is to save up a little and try the Prime AEG compatible unit, unless anyone has any better ideas...

  2. I adore that  :wub:

    My inner OCD self is saying that the world will implode if you don't match an Ergo pistol grip with that.

    Also, the SPARC isn't as great as the STRIKEFIRE and cheaper to boot.

     

    See I've got an R/S Ergo grip in black, but it's just not OD! That, and the storage compartment in the MOE grip is quite handy - I keep an inert .223 and a bag of sour skittles in it for emergencies. Still, definitely the nicest Airsoft gun I've ever owned, totally worth the money! Although the Prime hop unit it came with was a nightmare, the Iron Airsoft one I bought wouldn't seal at all, and it's now running a bog standard G&P one I've fixed for .3's... Oh well.

     

     

    I'm not a fan of that stock...but that build looks awesome.

     

    Thanks man - I was considering a UBR, but a PTS UBR is about £150 if I can even find one in OD, and the F93 stock was £137, including shipping to Josh, from Josh to me, and a small fee for the favour.. Plus, I can't remember seeing an F93 stock in a game so I figured it'd be a bit original, and I've really fallen in love with it since installing it!

  3. It is a discontinued kit/complete aeg (the bits I've got are from a kit) that G&P used to make, really nice quality but you need the strength of 1000 men to remove the magazine the first few times. Magazines are a bit of an issue so I'm looking at converting some marui hicaps at the moment. Otherwise really nice bit of kit, it even has the 9mm deflector and shortened dust cover!

     

     

    G&P have re-done the SMG; You can buy them brand new from a fair few retailers now! 

     

    http://airsoftzone.co.uk/m4-moe-9mm-smg-magpul-black-aeg-gnp?filter_name=G&P%20SMG

     

     

    Admittedly that's the magpul jobbie, but it's got the proper lower receiver and ejection port/shell deflector, and I'm sure you can buy the standard carry handle one from a few places.

  4. I think I may have the only one of these on Arnies at the moment.

     

    G&P based Colt lower, Barrett Rec7 upper. Would have gone full Barrett, but I like the G&P base gun way too much. I've gotten tired of military impressions and decided to emulate some of my favorite fictional characters instead. 

     

     

    Admiral Sandecker would be proud man. Damn nice build.

  5. For those of you with the G&P KAC Suppressors; are yours loose?  I mean when I attach my onto the supplies KAC flash hider, there's a bit of wobble and it doesn't feel as secure as the Magpul PTS AAC silencer. 

     

    How do you go about remedying this?

     

    Pick up a few thin cross section O-rings the same outer diameter as the flash-hider - Pop one into the can, just behind the anti-rotation post - It'll be a little more difficult to attach the silencer due to the fact you're compressing an O-ring, but it should make it nice and solid.

     

    Saying that, mine has been on a Birdcage flash-hider for a while, and it obviously rotates and it's not rock solid, but with the foam gone the BB doesn't clip the edges at all.

  6. New paint. Surefire suppressor is coming sometime soon. Then Hwagan and I can be suppressor buddies.

     

     

     

     

     

     

    Where'd you manage to find a Surefire one? One of the ACM jobbies or a Madbull? I was tempted by one of the replicas but I've proper fallen in love with this here AAC one..

     

    very nice :)

     

    Thanks man! Although in future, remember to delete the pics when you quote a post just to save 'em showing twice on the same page! :)

  7. I have no choice in the mags, its the only mag that I know of that works in a WA based gun that isn't complete poo and doesn't cost an arm and a leg. As for the torch, I have no idea, it's just a China clone I bought off a friend. The gun is a just a cheap fixer upper I got off a buddy, it's basically an AGM with some upgrades. Works well enough and shoots like a boss. 

     

     

    Thank you kindly. Next project is a MK 18 Mod 1 upper receiver. 

     

    Not sure if it'd work out economically for you, but G&P Pmags have always been fantastic for me - Very simple design, PTS licensed Pmag replicas and they're £45 from AirsoftZone, although the international shipping might kill the price... Saying that, trying the GHK G5 mags in my WA's, they definitely punch a little harder than the G&P mags.

  8. From what I've heard about how unfailingly reliable and advanced the LM4 is, and from my experience with high-end WAs, I think you might be making a mistake. The Inokatsu-length WAs are hands-down the most realistic airsoft guns out there, but they're finicky to tune and if you don't tune them properly, they don't work well at all. From what I've heard the much less realistic LM4 is a much more forgiving skirmish gun.

     

     

    To be honest, I think as with all gas guns, a lot of it is user experience.

     

    For example, this is my 5th G&P WA System gun - All of them have worked absolutely fine, no issues at all. I've had to tweak the hop on a couple, but honestly other than that I've never had the slightest hint of a problem. Mine have always worked well, I'm yet to wear a Bolt carrier into an unuseable condition, nothing breaks, etc etc. I'd say when it comes to the WA system, you need to simply get the right combination of parts. In my experience that combination is everything G&P, except for the RA-Tech red hop rubber, which I've found to be grippy enough to sling .3's. People often seem to think an aluminium nozzle, or an NPAS, or other such doo-dads are a necessity when they're simply not. Low power valves are available for the G&P nozzle - My MRP came with one factory fitted, and it touches 335 on a very hot day, and 310 on an average day on a 10.5 barrel - Perfect candidate for a tightbore. 

    Magazines are the WA System's biggest flaw - Again though, I've owned a total of 12 G&P Pmags - My original set of 7 are in the hands of a good friend and have never sprung a leak that couldn't be easily fixed with a rebuild and a clean/lube, and my current 5 are flawless as well. 

     

    I've also had a lot more success utilising the WA System in cold weather - Keeping mags under the vest, I can operate a G&P WOC with a standard G&P BCG in around 5c, as long as I rotate the mags when they've been out in the air for 10 minutes.

     

    My experience of the KWA however hasn't been as good - For a start, the externals, while functional and built well, don't begin to compare in structural strength of the upper, finish, looks or available options as well as a few aspects of R/S Compatibility. My KWA LM4 also suffered an issue in anything less than around 12c, where the trigger pull would lead to a hiss, and the firing cycle being delayed by anywhere from 1-5 seconds. 

     

    What I'll say is this - The KWA is a fantastic system, but it DOES have it's niggles. My particular gun *may* have been a little bit of a lemon, but there are a few cons to the KWA system, as with any other. The WA system is a *badgeress* when it comes to magazines - And when you start fiddling parts around, you'll begin to see compatibility and tolerance issues coming up. 

     

    The best thing you can do with a GBBR, whether G&P, KWA, WE or any other brand, is to keep it as close to stock as possible - Make sure you can source manufacturer produced spares for your chosen gun, make sure you know what magazines are good and how to maintain them, and keep anything metal out of the nozzle system if you can avoid it, especially in the WA System.

     

    I've had nothing but pleasant experiences with G&P WOC's, and I'm probably G&P's most loyal fan as a result; At the same time, I know that experience hasn't held true for everyone else.

     

    There's no such thing as a perfect GBBR system - It's all dependent on what you want out of the gun, how much work you're willing to put in, your knowledge of the system's foibles, patience, and critically, the availability of reliable mags and STOCK spare parts.

     

    Hell, CK's WOC-X, the one with the Omega rail, functions beautifully - Crisp cycle, flings a .3 absolutely fine and runs without issue on my Pmags. It'll get steel guts and a Prime/RS sized receiver eventually, but for now I can't fault it. Lovely little gun.

     

    Like I said though, each to their own - I won't knock any of the common AR GIM Systems, because I've owned them all, bar the KJ Works. The G&P built WA system is my choice for the reasons I've mentioned above, but I won't knock the KWA or WE or KJW (the only one I haven't owned).

     

     

    Also, edit because Picture thread - Repositioned the gas block, clipped the rail pin and added a gas tube and found a screw for my other set of sights;

     

    Newwoc1.jpg

    • Like 2
  9. Hwagan, you mind posting what made that AEG go over 1k? :)

     

    Look at the bolt ;)

     

    It's a G&P/Bomber (From what I can find out, G&P guts in Prime externals, although that's unconfirmed) MRP WA System GBBR; The gun itself goes on Ehobby for $900, and the Strike Systems dot sight, mount, ASAP, Ergo grip and BUIS bring it up to around $1070 or so. A functioning mag (because G&P STANAGS are non-starters) is another $50 odd on top for the G&P Pmag.

  10. Last time I tried to get in here with an AEG that might have just about barely touched $1k if you counted every single tiny part at it's most expensive price...

     

    Finally, legitimate entry!

     

    MRP6.jpg

     

     

    MRP1.jpg

     

     

    MRP3.jpg

     

     

    MRP2.jpg

    • Like 1
  11. Ha ha, it's a Novel Arms Tac-One, copy of the Night Force 1.5-4 , with a home brew MRDS added (ACOG specific, shimmed,drilled and tapped for a solid fit)

    And not for sale, really liking it :)

     

    Hwagan, not looking too shabby yourself :)

     

     

    I'm just ashamed that I'm photographing a thousand pound gun with an Iphone camera... Really need to get some proper shots of it at some point!

  12. I'm using the liquid on my GBBR, and I love the stuff - The action is butter smooth, and value for money wise, very little is required. I like the smell 'n all, plus the cartoon frog is pretty bonus.

    I'm applying on the hammer roller, a drop in the FCG, a dab around the recoil buffer and middle of the BCG. As a side note, I've also been using it on the nozzle O-ring since I got the gun, and I can see no visible signs of harm to it. Possibly decent quality rubber standing up to it, but I think I'll probably go back to using silicone on the O-ring to be safe.

    • Like 1
  13. Welcome to the club Wilde! Your bank account should be terrified ;) And Jimmypie, I'm not normally a big fan of Mk18's but the attention to detail on yours is nuts, really nice build.

     

    Also, updated the MRP a little for an upcoming night game, and sprayed the barrel with Plastikote to prevent the rust:

     

    MRPK1.jpg

     

     

    MRPK4.jpg

     

     

    MRPK3.jpg

     

     

    MRPK2.jpg

     

     

    Amazingly, I haven't even needed to touch the hop on this - Admittedly it requires taking the barrel assembly out to adjust, but now it's set it's kicking .3's out on an exceptionally nice trajectory.

    • Like 2
  14. That's got the aluminium bolt carrier right? Any other differences to the US version? Assuming its not just basically the KSC model.

     

    Just want to avoid paying LWA prices for the US model

     

    Nah, steel - I believe all models have the steel carrier, unless there are new ones I've not yet heard of. I had the model LWA sell, and it was generally fantastic - Only real reason I shifted mine was I'm a sucker for trademarks, and I've gotten pretty good with the WA system's foibles. Might be worth contacting Milspec Solutions - They previously sold them, although they're off the website now - However, they might still be able to get one in!

  15. Okay, complete confusion here..

     

    Is this the US KWA version, or is it the KSC version labelled as KWA?

    Trying to tell if it has the steel bolt but can't tell from pics:

     

    http://www.wgcshop.com/wgc2008/main/product_detail1.php?search_From=category&item=KWA-GBR-M4MPEM&search=category&rs=KWA%20GBBRs&catid=76&cat=635

     

     

    I believe it's the KWA Hong Kong version; I have a feeling Bladerunner168 can confirm this if he sees this, because I think he had that particular model!

  16. I did the same to my MFR with some 3M sticker....... but didn't cut the holes.........yet

     

    The sticker is very scratch resistant and nice to touch, little bit slippery though

     

     

    I'm pretty sure that's what the guy used; It's actually a really nice finish, although I can agree it's not very grippy...

     

     

     

  17. Hi guys! I've recently acquired an LM4 finally and have a quick question to ask you! I want to change the barrel down to a CQBR, I heard the OEM outer barrel is a two part to take it down to a 10" but I don't want to start mangling the barrel if that isn't the case! Can someone please confirm this for me? I can see what looks like a join but im not sure. 

     

    Also if it is a two part, whats the easiest way to get them separate? 

     

    Cheers!

     

     

    It is a two part barrel, but in my case, it was exceptionally difficult to remove. It was threadlocked on, and I ended up ruining the extension despite wrapping it in electrical tape when using pliers... Might be easier for you, or heating the barrel could work. Either way, once it's removed you'll also need to replace or cut down the inner barrel.

     

    Unfortunately, I can't remember the thread direction off the top of my head... I think it's negative, but I can't confirm that so find out first!

  18. I was so excited I finally got my MRP I forgot I also still have a sewing machine for the times I'll need it. Picked up the carbon fibre'd MFR rail from a mate, and it sort of looks quite race-gun-ish to me, so I'm leaving the carbon fibre on it for now. Need to get rid of the A2 grip..

     

    MRP7.jpg

     

     

    MRP8.jpg

    • Like 2
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