hwagan
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Posts posted by hwagan
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I'm always behind the curve - hence the A2
Damned hipsters
I would be clicking like on all of this, but I have reached my 'like' quota. I'm just too nice.
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I run them on all my guns and put up with a hurty ring finger. I've tried a few grips in the past and always come back to the A2 - but I'm going to try the TD grip again, just to be sure...I really can't deal with it at all! Had to use one on Sunday as my MOE grip needed a hole drilling for my WE M4, I honestly hate nothing more!
Why not an A1 grip? I find they're absolutely fine when the ridge isn't there, and they obviously look nigh on the same.And Isamu - Unlucky man
At least your ammo isn't as expensive though right? heh.-
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Oh, I understand, im not so polite so I use the same ammo on both my primary and secondary guns, 0.28g.
Maybe you are, I run .3's in my pistol
Also, TRH - Such a nice gun, and an A2 pistol grip? You're either masochistic or going for a specific look
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Why switching to a sidearm? power level on your sidearm must be pretty much the same as in your AR...
Out of politeness more than anything - I imagine my AR doesn't put out significantly more than 1.3J with a .4, but a .4 up close frikkin' hurts even at a reasonable velocity! There's also the fact the close up areas of my site are pretty much all bushes and foliage and spindly tree branches, so moving with a sidearm is a lot easier.
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Try chronoing it with those 0,40's, maybe there's a good reason you feel guilty...
Well the NPAS was set to 320 on a .2; I figured that should be low enough to keep a .4 under 1.3J, although if I'm wrong I can dial it down a touch.
Still, even if I am poking slightly above, I don't feel guilty about it - My site is very much a hicap fest; When I'm hit, it's by a 15 round burst of .2's at 350FPS, often at reasonably close range; When I hit someone, it's 1 or 2 .4's at around 280FPS (by my rough estimation) - Fair enough they sting a little, but I know the burst of .2's stings a lot more! I'm also very careful if I'm likely to hit someone close up and I'll aim for a PC/Webbing/Loose clothing, or switch to a sidearm.
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So, here's my Larue with cerakoted receivers.
Untill it's clean
.That is frikkin' gorgeous.
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lmfao. a sombrero. Thats one way to do it.
Nothing says "1337 0P3RA70R" like a tactical sombrero.
My thoughts exactly, plus the sun definitely won't get in my eyes right?
Hwagan, that sombrero de Mariachi really suits you, specially rocking those spanish flag colours
I have long harboured dreams of being part of a Mariachi band.
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Good point - Fixed.
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I'll get some proper pictures once the build is actually complete, but here's a pic someone got of me on Sunday with my new WE M4;
It was overhopping .3's out the box, so I put some .4's in it... I actually feel guilty about the performance, it wipes the floor with nigh on everything running Madbull .40's, the range is ludicrous. The Eotech is getting replaced with a Recce scope as a result once I can afford it.
The WE barrel nut is unfortunately not R/S spec on the teeth, so the rail is clamped down on some electrical tape... Bah. Anyone got a good recommendation for a US retailer that'll ship me a bog standard AR barrel nut? There's one on Brownells for $10, but all the reviews are stating the teeth break; Saying that, not sure I'll need 32ft/lbs of torque on a toy gun...
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10rd style mag came in:
KJW MEU. WE barrel. Ergo Grip grips. Streamlight TLR-1S. TM 40rd magazine.
That gun looks like the opposite of 'Ponsing about with shiney things'. Looks like a proper fightin' piece, that does.
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Look at how Madbull is describing the MFR for the US market.
- - Black anodize (Real steel is Military level III hard coat with Teflon coating)
- - Blocked gas pipe tunnel to prevent mis-use on real guns
- - Free Floating Barrel Design
That may be how they were advertising it, but there was nothing whatsoever blocking the tube on the 9.0 I had - Maybe they've re-designed them since the first batch, or there's a specific US version?
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I've managed to sell my LM4, so last night I took the plunge on (what I think at least) was a damn good deal;
Brand new (Sub<500 rounds, looks retail fresh from the pictures, including the mags) WE KAC Rail'd 14.5 M4, latest gen (3? 4?)
NPAS Fitted, original box, all tools and bits and bobs.
5 x Gen 2 mags
Element/ACM Scoutlight, Replica EOTech.
All told came to £450 and the Paypal fees - New would have cost me the same money but without any of the accessories, so reasonably pleased on the price, and the chap is dropping it off to me this evening.
Cheers for the help so far all - Looking forward to getting my mitts on it!
Anyhow, I've got a few more reasonably simple questions..
14.5" Outer barrel, am I correct in thinking it's a 2 piece and thusly can be made 10.5"?
NPAS adjustment - Assuming I'm looking at the front face of the bolt/nozzle, gas key on top, which way is more power, which way is less?
Hop system - How necessary is a change of rubber? I use .3's, however I've got .4's which I'd like to try. I've got a game Sunday, so really I'd just like to know if the stock rubber is useable, or needs replacing straight off? If so I'll pop to Wolf or PAS this evening.
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Hmm I hear ye, wen you put it that way it hardly seems worth it anymore. And as you said, I can just sell all the parts I replace.
So would you reccomend getting a stock WE m4, or going with the RA-Tech custom? http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/other-gun/gas-blow-black-rifle/we/ra-tech-custom-m4a1-ras-gbb-rifle-semi-3rd-burst.html
I'm going to replace all the internals with steel regardless, so maybe it'd save me some cash/assembly. Then with that I'd replace the lower receiver with an engraved colt receiver, stock, grip and front end most likely. I'd be tempted to get some fancy monolithic upper-receiver too.
The only issue with the RA-Tech is that it seems very sluggish when firing. I'd probably end up using CO2 anyway, but what could I do with the buffer to make it a bit snappier? I care more about the cycle rate than recoil.
I haven't owned one yet, so I wouldn't wanna make a recommendation myself - But plenty of owners seem to agree the stock WE's are a lot better these days, as well as RA-Tech parts being less than awesome. As for the colt receiver;
http://www.airsoftglobal.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=552_553&products_id=13900
Here's one AG made earlier
My suggestion, going on past GBBR experiences, is run it stock until it breaks - Then replace the trigger group, either with stock WE (£40, in the UK) or get a steel set up from CWI if you can find them, or maybe Hephaestus? Basically whatever more knowledgeable people recommend, which seems to be CWI.As for the cycle rate, I've used a mate's stock open bolt WE M4, and I was shocked at the cycle rate - Not far away from twice as quick as my KWA LM4, and I wouldn't call that sluggish at all.
Upper receiver wise, having looked into QQex's point a bit more, I'm not sure I'd wanna risk it myself... The slight chance of a clued up customs officer realising that I'm importing what's legally a section 5 firearm doesn't sound fun at all, even if I played the stupid card.
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I'm not certain of your precise thoughts on the matter MRF, but to me the small pin makes for a much more appealing product. I've discussed this with a few people and personally I'd much rather have the small pin that I can cut out and install a complete replica gas system. If it causes there to be two small circles of irregular complexion on the forend I'm really not fussed, but having the entire 12 o/clock rail filled with metal, therefore totally removing the ability to fit a gas system for 99% of people, is a deal breaker for me. That and you're adding a (comparative) ton of weight to a rail that's specifically meant to be light.
Would I buy another madbull rail regardless of their design decisions r.e. trying to stop fitment of their products on real ARs? Most likely not, not unless they hugely stepped up their game in terms of tolerance fidelity and surface finish quality. But if the NSR forends (with the small pin) were produced to a good standard I'd certainly keep it on my options list if I wanted to build a rifle with said rail that wouldn't require the upper re-threading to accept the Noveske original.
I'm pretty much in agreement on this; Having had the Madbull VTAC and SWS 9.28" - I'd buy the SWS again if I was going for that look; 12 seconds or so with a pair of snips, and I can fit a gas block and tube without a problem and a barely noticeable change to the exterior. The VTAC on the other hand was a total no go. I mean you physically can't see the part where the gas tube meets the upper - Why not simply put an inch of aluminium at the back with a hole for a gas tube? For all intents and purposes it'd look just as good, and hell, Madbull wouldn't have to use as much metal to make it. Some of their design decisions baffle me - The DD MFR 9.0 was nigh on perfect, and didn't even feature the airsoft only bit, or any way whatsoever of stopping a gas tube.
As for buying Madbull rails, I'll never do it again no matter how much they step up their game - These days getting an R/S rail for a similar price to an Airsoft replica is about the same amount of effort, or in the case of getting hold of a Samson one, a lot less hassle.
All that aside, that NSR build looks damn nice Bladerunner!
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Well, the thing is that I'll be replacing the stock, pistol grip and front end regardless, so I thought it'd end up being a tiny bit cheaper. The main issue is getting the receiver, hell, RS receivers seem cheaper than what's available.
Receiver wise, you can get WE OEM ones reasonably cheap - www.milspecsolutions.co.uk have both uppers and lowers, and www.airsoftglobal.com has trademarked lowers for $68. Prime ones are seriously, terrifyingly expensive!
Assuming you buy the O/B kit, you'd still need (if I recall correctly) an upper and lower receiver, pistol grip, stock/buffer tube set up, forward assist, dust cover, charging handle, buffer lock, buffer lock spring, selector detent, selector detent spring, front and rear takedown pins, mag catch, outer barrel. Whilst those bits aren't all enormously expensive, it'll be a big PITA getting all the parts from one place - shipping costs, etc etc. Once all the parts and shipping are added together, it doesn't work out a whole load cheaper than just buying a gun.
I've priced it up a couple of times from Mispec, and the parts I'd need work out pretty much the price of a new CQBR, which I could sell the remains of as well. It probably could be done cheaper, but building from scratch is hardly ever the way to go in Airsoft - Ask mimesis about building a Hicapa without a donor gun
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Hey, just did a chrono of my WE M4 CQBR with CO2 magazine, here are the results;
Weapon: WE/AFC M4 CQBR, stock internals (possibly NINE BALL hop-up rubber), MadBull Noveske KFH Amplifier Flash Hider
Magazine: WE CO2 magazine, MAGPUL PMAG RS outer shell
BBs: Blaster 6mm, 0.2g
Propellant: Daisy 12g CO2 cartridge
Ambient temperature/humidity: 25C, 34%
Chronograph: XCORETECH X3200
Rifle position: KFH amp. resting inside of chronograph funnel
Time between shots: ~2 seconds
Kind of what I was expecting to happen. First 2-3 shots strong and fairly consistent and then a constant FPS drop from there. Last 8 shots or so felt noticably weaker.
Hope this helps!
Thanks man, really helpful and useful info there! That's quite similar to what I was expecting as well, although it's good to see the first few rounds aren't insanely high - I was worried there'd be a 30-40FPS difference or thereabouts.
Also a thing I must say about my HK 416 is that right when I got it I converted it down to a 10.5" barrel. Problem is my dremmel died halvway through my attempts at crowning the barrel so I don't think it's optimal.
For what it's worth, I'm yet to see any evidence crowning affects a barrel in anything other than an exceptionally highly tuned sniper rifle; In fact, quite the opposite. The barrel in my LM4 is cut down roughly with a hacksaw, and crowned with the pointy end of a Ka-bar. It looks an utter mess, but there's no burring or damage on the bore itself, and FPS/accuracy/consistency has suffered no ill effects.
I thinking of building one of these from scratch in order to save some cash if I can:
Would this be all the internalls I need apart from the buffer? http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/we-open-chamber-conversion-kit-for-m4a1-gbb-23399.html
Then the trouble is getting a receiver for it, anyone know where to get one that isn't ridiculously expensive?
I also want to get an ACE stock for it, but it would seem no-one makes it for the WE GBBR. Would a RS ACE stock work?
An R/S ACE stock should work; R/S buffer tubes are compatible, so there's no reason why not.
As for building it from scratch, I was considering the same thing myself - Problem is, as well as the receiver you'll need all the receiver furniture, buffer parts, receiver pins, and all sorts of other bits - It'll be a hassle, and it's not likely to work out significantly cheaper.
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Nah, it was mainly for the cool points
However, having looked into just how dodgy it is, I don't think it's quite worth the cool points! -
Hwagan, you need to read my post further up the page again. Given what my contact at HMR&C has told me recently, you really want to steer clear of real deal upper receivers, modified or not.
Fair point; I read it as "Bad idea, but sort of grey areaish.", but having just looked up some of the details, I will definitely be steering clear of R/S uppers.
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Hehehe, Im with you Hwagan. I dumped my LM4 like a bad habit a few months ago and switched back to the WE platform. Used the extra money to get myself a trademarked M16, slapped a RS A2 upper receiver on it and had myself a custom M16a2 for a while.
Ive since converted that one to an M727 (and possibly soon an M733)..... Then I went an bought another trademarked M16 cause you know, sometimes you just need a really big rifle. I havent regretted selling the Lm4 for even a second. At least when a WE has problems, I can determine whats wrong. My LM4 just stopped working and nobody could fix it. not even KWA. The only thing I do regret is not selling all the mags right away. Cause theyre still sitting around.
It was really irritating how there was almost nothing you could do with a KWA LM4. I dont consider different rails to be custom builds. There was no way for me to turn one into an M16, or anything interesting at all.
As far as trigger pack durability, I dont think that there are too many wearing problems on WE AR15 platform rifles. The only thing ive ever seen happen to the trigger mech on customer's guns, is that the hammer pin that holds the roller in will sometimes come out and get lost. So just put a dab of epoxy or cyanoacrylate over it so it never gets to loosen up.
Also, your WE will eventually break the loading nozzle. it happens. theyre cheap to replace, like $10. Buy a few of them to have as spares. I just got an aluminum one for mine so I dont have to think about it anymore.
What exactly went wrong with your LM4? I've heard of people having feed issues and hop issues, but mine has really been flawless the time I've owned it; It's a shame, I still think it's a decent system, it just lacks the necessary support.
So the trigger pack I'm guessing has seen some pretty decent improvements? I recall in the early parts of this thread there were a few issues, and with the bolt catch as well; I'm guessing these seem to have been rectified now?
Nozzles I consider a consumable in GBBR's to be honest - In fact, I consider everything except the externals a consumable part, I'm comfortable with the fact GBBR's need parts replacing occasionally.
Anyhow, thanks for the info man, appreciate it - Nice collection as well, the M727 is particularly nice. Is modding an R/S upper particularly difficult? I'm not absolutely set on doing so, but it'd be nice to chuck as many real bits on it as possible eventually.
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http://www.arniesairsoft.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/208348-gp-hk416c/
Some brief info on page 2, and I believe more on GGI, although I'm yet to read it.
Fair point as well, a G&P M7A1 or something similar could be had for less than the G5 + mags. Thing is, GHK do make very good out of the box guns - Assuming you like the look of this or you're new to GIM guns (I'm not a massive fan either), it's not a bad option.
Lightweight, unique looking, good mags, reliable (GHK's PDW internals are pretty damned good), good performance and not as pricey as a brand new WOC/Ino/Viper setup. It's a marmite thing though - I wouldn't have one myself, but frankly any innovation in the GIM market is to be applauded!
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you forgot the extra cost on broken down parts on the g&p/vfc gbbr's.
The WA/G&P System and VFC systems can be made decent independent of each other - But the attempt to mash the two together is just a bad idea, I've heard of nothing but compatability issues and unique parts in the 416C...
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Ahh fair enough, I can live without the RS upper, was mainly just curiosity.
...Anyone fancy an LM4?
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It definitely looked quite unusual - I'm quite a fan of fluted barrels on AR's, don't usually see them much.
Anyhow, thanks for checking on the chrono - Much appreciated, I haven't heard of WE's doing the whole hot first few shots thing, but it'd be nice to confirm either way.
As for the Co2 mags, I might have to see if I can find an exploded diagram - If it'd have to take a catastrophic structural failure of the mag (which it's sounding like from your description) to unleash the full blast of Co2, that might be good enough for my local site - Probably won't be, but hey, a man can dream!
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I will try to answer your questions, but keep in mind I am a collector and plinker so I don't shoot my stuff much, but I do lurk and read alot of forums so I think I have a fairly good idea of things;
1. Yes, IMO that is correct. The new open bolt WE M4s are pretty nice out of the box. Not saying they won't break, but there should be nothing major to worry about right out of the box.
2. The general concensus that I have come up with is this; Run the stock internal parts for as long as they last. When they break, attempt to find new replacement stock parts. Repeat until new stock parts are no longer available. When that day comes, switch over to full steel internally to make sure it will work decently. CWI kits is the way to go.
3. I have a couple of WE CO2 magazines and they work fine for me, again see my leading comment of this post. As for FPS consistency, I cannot say, although I do have a chrono so I could find out for you.
4. Yearh, I got both my WE M4 CQBR and HK 416 with markings from AirsoftGlobal, I think they are one of the very few who have them. Other than that, Armed Forces in HK might have some (google AFC airsoft). UK retailers, no idea.
5. Yes, WEs can be modded for both RS uppers, lowers and barrels. Although IMO that is a bit extreme (requires machinary and work skills). I have replaceed almost everything on mine for RS parts except those three main components and the internals. Most are drop in fit, some needed minor mods and some parts ( can't recall just now ) did not fit at all (like 1 in 100).
No idea about left handed recievers, doub't WE have taken that into consideration for the design of their rifles.
Just my honest thoughts.
There is an abundance of information over on GasGuns Forums for RS WE builds if you want more info or ask more detailed questions.
Thanks man, that's a lot of help - Am I right in thinking your WE Is the one with the 7" DD rail and match-looking barrel? If so, it's a damn nice looking build!
I've found AFC's website 'n all, but I'll probably end up going with AG - They've also got the trademarked lower as a separate part, as well as uppers and plenty of other spares so it seems like a good plan to pick up a few bits from them in one go.
As for Co2 mags, any chance you could Chrono the first few rounds from a fresh Co2 load? I've seen a few Co2 guns that'll give an extra 50-100FPS on the first few shots out of fresh capsules, just wondering if that applies to the WE.
Also, last question, and this might not be as easily answered - My local site bans Co2 weapons on the basis that if something in the gun fails, there's the potential for 800PSI of Co2 to get behind the BB - Is there any kind of failsafe in a WE Co2 mag, or something similar, that'll prevent the full PSI of Co2 getting behind the BB? If I can prove the gun physically can't put the full energy of Co2 into a shot, it'll mean I can use it at my local in the winter which would be nice.
AR15 Variants and Derivitives Picture Thread
in Weapons
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I did once have an incident with my WOC firing a .3 and taking someone's tooth out; I rechrono'd with .2's and .3's at the Marshall's request, and the J level on .2's at 355FPS came up as 1.29J, and .3's at 332 read 1.34J, so right on the limit. I'd like to chrono with a .4 to find the J rating, but as you say - UK sites are the issue when it comes to chrono methods.
I don't try and deliberately trick the chrono, and I'll always mention that I'm using .3's or .4's on the day after chrono'ing with .2's - But other than the above incident, I've never once had a hot gun complaint made against me; There's also the fact that using a GBBR, you need any advantage you can get, and if the site's methods allow me a little more range, and I use that advantage sensibly (switching to sidearm up close, being careful of where I'm hitting people where possible) then I don't feel too bad about that.
Like I said - I'd rather take a .4 at 1.5J at close range than 10 .2's at 1.35J in rapid succession