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Atsalakotos

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Posts posted by Atsalakotos

  1. A normal AR charging handle will NOT fit the Hk417, there is a huge size difference in the bolts both in length and diameter.

    Here is a pic i took in comparison with an old AGM M4 bolt and charging handle I had. Hope this helps.

     

    hk417bolt_zpspzdnorq1.jpg

    • Like 1
  2. Well I have noticed the bolt bouncing a lot more than any 5.56 AR variant I have owned... But I rarely get misfeeds as the nozzle stays in place. I would suggest removing the nozzle and polishing the inside of the bolt carrier, as it is painted and with use the paint wears off unevenly causing the nozzle to move sluggishly. (And of course lubricate the nozzle oring properly)

  3. Couldn't ask for a better answer, thanks.  :D  I will refrain from buying any valves for now, and I will just get the azimuth power down floating valve for the bolt.

    I don't really care about recoil, but yes, the cycling on full auto is a bit iffy.. Although I don't really plan on using it on full auto that much as I am using the gun in CQB only, i will pull it apart when i have free time and look onto the things you mentioned!

    Cheers!

  4. Picked up a used MP5A5 a few days ago. Had issues with the hop up, did the VSR mod with a nineball rubber and I am getting incredible range and accuracy, no misfeeds and it only took me around 20 minutes..

    Already skirmished with this once and it works very well and I am thinking of picking up a few parts in case something goes wrong with it, and have been looking at magazine valves too...

    So, are Azimuth valves worth it?

  5. Took my 417 today for test firing. VFC 420mm inner with PDI W-Hold bucking, I could hit a man sized target at 80 meters 90% of the time. My gun works and feeds perfect on semi, with an occasional flyer every 10-15 shots (Don't know whats causing this, maybe the rubber and barrel need some breaking in..) I don't really care about full auto, but this GBB definitely doesn't like it, my groupings were EVERYWHERE.

    Also I never really bothered with cooldown because here in Greece the temperatures are above 15 degrees most of the time, but the gun worked perfectly today which was very cold (-2 to 0 degrees)

    I am definitely enjoying my purchase, and would suggest it to anyone trying to decide whether to buy this or not, but NOT if you plan on using it on full auto. VFC has DEFINITELY stepped up their game with this. (Comparing it to the Mp5 and HK416c)

     

    And some pictures I took (Was getting late so quality is lame..):

    K51A0258_zps9a3dd51f.jpg

    K51A0263_zpsd7ffd526.jpg

    • Like 4
  6. I got one of the bible quoted 6.03mm barrels from VFC for my 16" kit (420mm fits perfectly), installed it along with a PDI hop bucking. Got a great increase in accuracy, but havent had the chance to test it in ranges further than 60m.

    Even if the barrels say they are for AEGs they have cuts for WE and VFC GBBRs so they could be a good choice for someone that cant find any alternatives and the quality is very good. Also I found that the buckings with extended moulds dont work well on this gun due to the way the hop up arms sits in the unit.

  7. Got mine yesterday (from WGC, their service is amazing), recoil feels amazing and its LOUD. :D My hop up is consistent enough when using it in semi-auto (I would say very accurate)... In full auto it just spews BBs everywhere (Only like half of them fly straight)... Unlike nugentgl's 417, my outer barrel came out just fine... But I am having troubles with removing the barrel nut, as its screwed in too tight and I have no specialized tools. And after seeing that video I am way too scared to put too much strength in it!! .. :angry:

  8. All sounds pretty good, but this:

     

     

    is a bit annoying, seeing as pistol cut barrels are generally pretty short, a VSR length one would be a better length for this but if it won't go in the hopup...

    Yeah, this could prove VERY annoying when converting to 16" or 20" barrels :(

  9. On the metal one:

     

    I managed to order one from CRW airsoft.  Took about 2 weeks to get to me.  The fit is REALLY tight, especially noticeable on the rail and control surfaces.  All edges were pretty sharp too, filed them down a bit before installing.

     

    Fixed all feed issues.

    The metal or the plastic one?

    My nozzle is still fine but I am thinking of getting one in case i run into any problems.. I don't think I can live without my M870 for 2 weeks! :D

  10. Hey guys, I have been wondering what shell side saddle to get for this... I know the marui shells are fatter than the real 12 gauge ones but by how much? Can i just get a polymer side saddle and sand the insides for the shells to fit?

    Also are the receiver pins in the same place as the real one, or are they off spec? (I remember the receiver being a bit shorter than the RS but all i care is the pin position so I can mount the shell saddle)

    • Like 1
  11. Hey guys, I have had this for 3 weeks now and went to two games with it. Used propane and fired around 600 rounds total and no damage on the nozzle. (Still worried though)
    But I have another problem. The gas efficiency seems to be a bit crappy. Sometimes I cannot fire a whole magazine with one gas load even in semi-auto. Is it this way with everyone's? (I think it was around 15 deg celcius and relatevly high humidity)

  12. Ok, for those that are still wandering about the reliability of this gun. I play almost every Sunday and for the last year I have played in most games with my G39C. It has fired A LOT of rounds, I don't know how many but they are easily beyond 20000.

    Issues with the gun:

    Valve knocker pin broken.

    This can only be replaced with a part thats exclusive to the G39. This and the valve delayer. If you want to swap it out for a part from other WE systems, (M4 / PDW / SCAR) you have to change the valve delayer too.

    IMG_0698_zps2b7a731b.jpg

    From left to right: M4 Old, G39 (All), M4 New (I dont have a valve delayer that matches)

     

    As you can see the hammers are the same so they are interchangable. The M4 valve knocker is dremmeled to the point it resembles the G39 one because I didnt have a matching delayer at the time. (Works good)

    The new M4 valve knocker is completely different, and I dont know why WE have chosen to go that way, their old designs work just fine.

    In my gun I have a valve knocker and delayer from the M4 (The ones on the left) and they have lasted around 10000 rounds with no signs of wear. I do believe proper lubrication is the key. (I use Abbey's graphite grease, works fine for me)

     

    Hop Up

    I have kept the stock nub and changed the rubber with a Red King Arms for VSR. It works quite good but doesn't give the gun much range, so I have changed to a PDI W-hold. Works perfect. Both rubbers overhop .20 but they work fine with .25 and up. (I use Bioval .30s)

     

    Barrel Nut

    After some use my barrel had lots of wobble, but up to a point I could fix it by shimming the barrel nut. I have opted to buy the double barrel nut from FG-Airsoft. Its a French company that makes a couple of parts for gas guns. Their barrel nut is a great design. It comes with two nuts. One locks the chamber on the body of the gun. The other locks the barrel on the hop unit. A drop of blue locktite and nothing wobbles and the nuts wont come loose. I have bought 2 for my C and K G39s and they fit perfectly.

    Here is a link to the product: http://fg-airsoft.com/en/pieces-pour-we-g39/49-ecrou-de-canon-pour-g39-gris-sombre.html

     

    Magazine inlet valves.

    I have around 10 magazines. 4 of them developed bad leaks around the inlet valve. I fixed this by removing the o-ring around the valves and then screwing them in with a bit of black RTV silicone around them (This forms a gasket and eliminates any leaks). I have also had a valve with a broken head which i replaced (My fault for over tightening it)... But that was almost 2 years ago so I don't really remember what types of inlet valves are needed...

     

    Broken Nozzle

    One of the two teeth of the inner part of the nozzle have broken. What I did was cut two pieces of plastic, shaped them to resemble the broken teeth and then glued them in place. This has happened to the nozzle of my G39K too so I will take some pictures of the procedure and post them.

     

    @Arafat As far as rail systems are concerned, I have seen that the handguards from JG (Little wobble)/ TM and G&P guns fit.

    • Like 1
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