danielsilva
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Posts posted by danielsilva
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Any idea what size allen wrench/key is needed for the hop?
I unfortunately dont have a calliper/ruler handy to check.
Going to look for a ball end allen wrench to make adjusting the hop easier.
Dunno cause the thing didn't came with it's own allen key and the smallest i have around here is 1,5mmm which doesn't fit. So it's either 1mm or .5mm, i'll have to buy them before i can say for sure.
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Yaaay purty pictures!
The rifle itself:
Some close ups on the receivers:
Yes the receiver has a shiny finish although not as bad as it looks on the pictures, the sun and the fact that it's full of oil ampliated the effect a bit. The holes for the takedown pins appear to be made post anodizing and "hand made" rather than from the cast itself.
Interestingly enough the inside of the magwell still has the same cast fault that the old v1 AWSS lower receivers had
Close ups:
Apart from a new bolt stop and a somewhat shortened auto sear, the trigger box appears to be pretty much the same.
As you can the the mock gas key is a bit different and you also can see the small steel reinforcement on the carrier where it engages with the bolt stop. It looks sturdier than that found on the G39 and SCAR.
The hop up unit.
Some completely random pictures:
Feel free to ask for any other specific picture
PS. Mods feel free to remove my post from the WE M4 thread that is a copy of the first post of this thread.
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Yeeeey it arrived !!
First of all let me just say that what i'll post now is just my first impressions, opinions and quick "facts" that i found during my initial "inspection" and by no means is a in depth review. Now that we've put that out in the open .... FUCLKGIUGNG FINALLY !!
The first thing you notice when picking it up from the box is how damn light the thing is
I was surprised to see how light it is compared to my old M16 AWSS, so i picked one of my AWSS M4's ( vanilla ) and compared the two on a scale. Surprise surprise, the M16VN weighted the same as the much shorter M4 that didn't have any trigger group installed and has a partly steel outer barrel ( compared to the M16VN that came with a potmetal *?* one ).The weight of it surprised me a lot and how flimsy the receiver looked/felt to the touch ... even the old AWSS felt "beefier" and found myself a bit disappointed while i was comparing the old AWSS receiver to the receiver found on the M16. But after i cooled down and the "omfg moment" dissipated i put some thought to it and couldn't find a reason why the new receiver was so much lighter than the crappy AWSS v1 receiver and decided to give one for the team and went to get a x-acto. I scraped the old AWSS receiver and saw a dull grey colour denoting that it was the zinc alloy i was expecting, i then did the same to the new receiver and gladly found a very bright shiny grey, this means of course that the receiver is actually mostly aluminium !
But since that now the BCG, charging handle, outer barrel and and how there's no steel parts on a removable carrying handle allied with such a lightweight aluminium upper receiver, you can't shake off that feeling of "how can this be so lightweight and still be strong enough not to brake as soon as i play with it ?!?". It's still a aluminium cast tough but fortunately the outer finish is almost perfect without any blemishes, cast marks and the surface is VERY smooth. Tt has a very shiny finish though ... it is the totally opposite of my old AFC dull grey AWSS receiver.
I can only see two differences in the lower receiver, the new bolt stop and that the auto sear is a couple of mm shorter ( and it looks like it is just an old AWSS sear that was filled down to spec ) and all other dimensions appear to be the same but i'll have to disassemble it first to be sure.
The steel parts appear to be:
- Charging Handle Latch
- Delta Ring
- Takedown Pins
- Flashider
- Bolt Stop
The rest is a mix of potmetal, aluminium and plastic. Now the really bad part of this gun ... the plastic used on the handguards are ######, pure stinking ######. It looks like they made them out of plastic bags that were melted down and formed into the shape of handguards. And of course, since the material is balls and the fact that the gun came disassembled in 2 parts, my handguard set came obliterated from the transport
The BCG although being potmetal actually appears to be able to last quite a while ! Unlike the ###### poor attempted of reinforcing the potmetal carrier on the g39/SCAR with a tiny cube of steel, the AR carrier has a long strip of steel that goes from the bottom of the carrier right until to the middle of it, being surrounded with the rest of the carrier and only a small part of it actually interfaces with the bolt stop, not only that but the reinforced part of the carrier is a just a tiny bit larger than the rest of the carrier. But only time will tell how long the original carrier will last, although Ra-Tech already has a steel bcg in the works.
And now the interesting part ... how does it shoot ? Beautifully ... i just gassed up the mag, put some .25g BB's on it and went shooting on the usual spot. In the first couple of mags there were a few flyers ( the hop up came DRENCHED in silicone oil ) but after that the thing was shooting laser straight with .25g BB's and easily passing the 70m mark ( where i shoot i have a measured landmark at 80m and the BB's were falling very short of it ). This is how the WE M4 should have been made from day 1 !!
The 20 round VN magazine really is a one piece design, there's no shell ! It comes leak free though and handled 30ºC propane just fine, it cools down like crazy and even with on this weather became VERY cold to the touch after fully dumping the mag. Surprisingly though it didn't have any measurable effect on the performance and the gun performed flawlessly without any hiccups :eh: But only time will tell if this is a problem or not, it's so hot outside that even a really cold mag might not do any "damage".
I'll be taking a few nice pictures of it during the weekend and if time allows, i will try to transplant the internal bit into my old AFC receiver and see what changed, what is compatible and what isn't. Stay tuned :wave:
- Charging Handle Latch
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Doesn't the conversion kit not come with the buffer at the end of the recoil rod (see picture on WGC)?
Every new/recent kit and/or gun comes with the buffer already installed. Only the first batches came without them.
Does anyone know what RATECH trigger components will work as a drop-in replacement for the SCAR Open Bolt? I think I recall that some of the RATECH steel trigger components don't work with the SCAR, only with AR-15 trigger boxes.
Yes, the trigger themselves are different ( SCAR and G39 ) from the AR one, but looking at Jonhy's facebook page, correct triggers for both G36 and SCAR are on their way out.
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Already have an old steel valve lock and knocker from RA-Tech which I used from my PDW.
Just need the disconnecter and hammer.
Does anyone do a steel g36 trigger?
I suspect leaving the stock one in there amongst the steel parts will wear it down quickly.
I found this on Jonhy's ( Ra-Tech ) facebook page, so it may not be too far long until you can get them
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Just a note on the foregrips of the M16-A1 ,theyare identical to the real ones we compared them to. same plastic and same seam lines . I would go as far as to say they didn't make any of their own and instead decided to buy a load of real foregrips . Even the heat sheild is identical .
That's good to know and geez ... they had quite the poor plastics back then
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Yeeeey it arrived !!
First of all let me just say that what i'll post now is just my first impressions, opinions and quick "facts" that i found during my initial "inspection" and by no means is a in depth review. Now that we've put that out in the open .... FUCLKGIUGNG FINALLY !!
The first thing you notice when picking it up from the box is how damn light the thing is
I was surprised to see how light it is compared to my old M16 AWSS, so i picked one of my AWSS M4's ( vanilla ) and compared the two on a scale. Surprise surprise, the M16VN weighted the same as the much shorter M4 that didn't have any trigger group installed and has a partly steel outer barrel ( compared to the M16VN that came with a potmetal *?* one ).The weight of it surprised me a lot and how flimsy the receiver looked/felt to the touch ... even the old AWSS felt "beefier" and found myself a bit disappointed while i was comparing the old AWSS receiver to the receiver found on the M16. But after i cooled down and the "omfg moment" dissipated i put some thought to it and couldn't find a reason why the new receiver was so much lighter than the crappy AWSS v1 receiver and decided to give one for the team and went to get a x-acto. I scraped the old AWSS receiver and saw a dull grey colour denoting that it was the zinc alloy i was expecting, i then did the same to the new receiver and gladly found a very bright shiny grey, this means of course that the receiver is actually mostly aluminium !
But since that now the BCG, charging handle, outer barrel and and how there's no steel parts on a removable carrying handle allied with such a lightweight aluminium upper receiver, you can't shake off that feeling of "how can this be so lightweight and still be strong enough not to brake as soon as i play with it ?!?". It's still a aluminium cast tough but fortunately the outer finish is almost perfect without any blemishes, cast marks and the surface is VERY smooth. Tt has a very shiny finish though ... it is the totally opposite of my old AFC dull grey AWSS receiver.
I can only see two differences in the lower receiver, the new bolt stop and that the auto sear is a couple of mm shorter ( and it looks like it is just an old AWSS sear that was filled down to spec ) and all other dimensions appear to be the same but i'll have to disassemble it first to be sure.
The steel parts appear to be:
- Charging Handle Latch
- Delta Ring
- Takedown Pins
- Flashider
- Bolt Stop
The rest is a mix of potmetal, aluminium and plastic. Now the really bad part of this gun ... the plastic used on the handguards are ######, pure stinking ######. It looks like they made them out of plastic bags that were melted down and formed into the shape of handguards. And of course, since the material is balls and the fact that the gun came disassembled in 2 parts, my handguard set came obliterated from the transport
The BCG although being potmetal actually appears to be able to last quite a while ! Unlike the ###### poor attempted of reinforcing the potmetal carrier on the g39/SCAR with a tiny cube of steel, the AR carrier has a long strip of steel that goes from the bottom of the carrier right until to the middle of it, being surrounded with the rest of the carrier and only a small part of it actually interfaces with the bolt stop, not only that but the reinforced part of the carrier is a just a tiny bit larger than the rest of the carrier. But only time will tell how long the original carrier will last, although Ra-Tech already has a steel bcg in the works.
And now the interesting part ... how does it shoot ? Beautifully ... i just gassed up the mag, put some .25g BB's on it and went shooting on the usual spot. In the first couple of mags there were a few flyers ( the hop up came DRENCHED in silicone oil ) but after that the thing was shooting laser straight with .25g BB's and easily passing the 70m mark ( where i shoot i have a measured landmark at 80m and the BB's were falling very short of it ). This is how the WE M4 should have been made from day 1 !!
The 20 round VN magazine really is a one piece design, there's no shell ! It comes leak free though and handled 30ºC propane just fine, it cools down like crazy and even with on this weather became VERY cold to the touch after fully dumping the mag. Surprisingly though it didn't have any measurable effect on the performance and the gun performed flawlessly without any hiccups :eh: But only time will tell if this is a problem or not, it's so hot outside that even a really cold mag might not do any "damage".
I'll be taking a few nice pictures of it during the weekend and if time allows, i will try to transplant the internal bit into my old AFC receiver and see what changed, what is compatible and what isn't. Stay tuned :wave:
PS:
Pardon me if you find some typos and/or grammatical errors but it's 23h into the night and i'm of course tired from work
PS v2:
As soon as i get a nice batch of purty pictures i'll make a separate thread and do a more in depth review, unless the mods think otherwise ?
- Charging Handle Latch
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Thought I'd answer this. Firstly, if you know about the vcra then you should know about the defences, though they are unproven yet but thats a whole can of worms that I wont get into (unproven in a court of law not when buying from airsoft shops etc).
If you are a member at a skirmish site that has public liability insurance, or ukara membership, you'll be fine ordering from most retailers in the uk (give them a ring, as some only accept ukara membership; they normally state that requirment on their website). Now if your importing, ukara/skirmishes diary/member of an airsoft site with PLI, will do. You're best looking in the vcra thread for clarification. 
Now, on topic. Has anyone bought an open bolt we scar and compared it to a converted closed bolt to open bolt scar? Does that make sense?
The reason is, I would like to know if it is better to buy the new open bolt scar or buy an old closed bolt scar and convert to open bolt. I built a few converted SCAR's and comparing them to a factory open bolt SCAR i couldn't find any visible differences.
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The fix is easy, sell/return it and stick to AEG's
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Epic thread is epic. Sorry the offtopic but I really enjoyed reading the last few pages
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I find the RA-T bucking to suck donkey balls. I've been using the Element H nub + Nineball combo with great results on the M14 ( without the nub of course ), G39 and SCAR. My next target is using it with the M16 as soon as it arrives.
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I understand your line of thought but i don't see how not releasing one product is "letting their consumers down" and this is coming from someone who has 3 M4/M16s waiting for said product.
As soon as i get my M16 OB i'll be checking what parts changed and if the internal really are interchangeable with the old receivers.
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What I did found out was that the two plastic tabs keeping the nozzle in was responsible for the nozzle failure to fully retract. If I back the screw out on turn from the tightest, (still no play for the plastic pieces to move) the nozzle can easily fully retract. I'm thinking to use a lil bit of loctite, but I'll keep it as is (200 round later I'll check if it move or not)
Yes those were the guiding rails i was talking about.
Question, does the bb still fall out if you turn hop off and barrel pointing down? (I notice RA-Tech rubber+ stock nub does this up to 10-15% hop on)
If you're using the RAT hopup rubber that's actually to be expected, i found that the "nub" inside the RAT hopup rubber is too big for the hopup hole/window of the inner barrel and thus doesn't contact with the BB unless you apply quite a bit pressure into it.
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Snipers? I see no snipers in that picture. I do see two precision rifles, however.
Semantics, it's just a linguistic convenience. And besides "precision rifle" is an ambiguous phrase when translated to my native language when we have two words that can and/or are directly translated to "rifle" but can mean two very distinct weapons depending on what your describing, so it's hard for me to say "precision rifle" when around here these types of weapons are usually called as "sniper rifles" ( translated of course ).
My point is, just go with it and don't put much thought into it
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You sure like your sniper guns
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Is it just me or the nozzle does not fully retract? I notice my Main Nozzle O-Ring seem to be a size larger.
It is supposed to be a tight fit and provide a good seal. If the nozzle isn't retracting fully or has difficulty to do so it's a sign that you need to clean and lub the guiding rails and lub the o-ring.
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Well you *could* use the original trigger and just mod it, reinforcing the part of the trigger that engages the hammer. That's what some people ( me included ) was doing back in the day where such aftermarket solutions didnt exist. See the following post to understand what i'm talking about, http://www.arniesairsoft.co.uk/forums/index.php?showtopic=170736&st=6360 ( just scroll down until you see the post i'm talking about ).
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Well I didn't replace the parts on a whim! They are all FUBAR except possibly the trigger and sear though not too sure.
Hmm painful are they any good GBB mechanics about?
Well that sucks ... I'm just spoiled since i always have a thousand extra parts laying around and can substitute them to see where the problem comes from. Don't you know someone who also has a WE G36 and ask him to quickly swap receivers ?
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Well if it were me i would install all the original parts, if you have them, and see if the problems go away. Them substitute one by one and till you pinpoint the problem ( i would try the firing pin base first ). It's a tedious job but when i don't know the cause of a problem it's what i do, it usually does the trick.
Royal pain the *albartroth* though
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CNC Hammer Set
CNC Firing Pin
CNC Valve Locker (part #66/#91)
Apparently needed these bits because my G36 lost semi auto!! Also recently has had a massive drop in FPS, consistency & range which is highly upsetting. Chronos between 125fps and 365fps on 0.28gs. I'm hoping a full new steel trigger set will make it go again!
On the way -
CNC Sear (part #71)
CNC M4 Trigger - Getting a G36 one custom CNC'd
Regarding the trigger group, you either stick to original parts or you buy the complete set made out of steel from the get go, mixing potmetal and steel parts ( even the mild steel that ra-tech uses ) will just lead to fatal failure.
I might be missing something but i don't see how the trigger group could influence that massive drop in power ... I would give the G36 a good disassembly and check all important parts if i were you, like nozzle ( does it moves freely and smoothly ? ), floating valve and it's spring, hopup unit, how the carrier is moving ( freely and smoothly ? ).
Last time my M14 did the same ( highly uneven ROF, FPS variation and even gas clouds ) was when the nozzle wasn't moving freely/smoothly and was getting "stuck" when the bolt was moving backwards. A good cleaning and lubrication on the o-ring and guiding tracks and it sprung back to life.
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My teammate played with his G39 in near 0c and the gun performed flawlessly and there are many players who can attest that and even lower temperatures.
And I don't even see how is possible to have chopped BB's when most if not all parts who interface with the BB's are made of plastic, unless you're using VERY brittle bb's.
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Hmmm where did you get the that single only selector ?
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Thanks for the answer, I have tried with low pressure gas and half-filled magazines, it seems to me that the valve knocker barely touches the release valve.
Push it and see if it snaps back to position, if not you either have the firing pin base getting stuck.
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I should say blasphemy...but I kind of like that...
WHAT HAVE YOU DONE?!
I was a bit wary of how it would turn out but I actually quite like it. Not only that but I was surprised how much difference a simple VFG made ... With the short barrel and the VFG, I can handle the M14 beautifully.
WE M16 VN/Open Bolt
in Rifles (Gas)
Posted
A little update.
As you can see, the new open bolt M4/M16/HK416 doesn't use the same trigger cage nor the old type valve delayer, instead it uses the new type delayer found in the newer OB guns and the trigger cage from the OB SCAR(?).
So you CANNOT use the old trigger cage ( and thus not be able to use the upgraded ra-tech delayer if you already have one ) because the "new" trigger cage is a bit thinner near the firing pin ( encircled in red ) than the old cage and the new bolt stop won't allow the cage to fit. However if you're a cheap bastird like me and don't want to loose the old upgraded parts, you can just file down the old trigger cage to spec and use the old parts. I shot a couple of mags with the old trigger cage that i filled down and had no stoppages.
You can also see that the new OB system uses a "different" auto sear but it's nothing than an old type sear that had about .5~1mm shaved off, so you can just either pop the new one into the old cage or file down to spec the old auto sear.