danielsilva
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Everything posted by danielsilva
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The fix is easy, sell/return it and stick to AEG's
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Epic thread is epic. Sorry the offtopic but I really enjoyed reading the last few pages
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I find the RA-T bucking to suck donkey balls. I've been using the Element H nub + Nineball combo with great results on the M14 ( without the nub of course ), G39 and SCAR. My next target is using it with the M16 as soon as it arrives.
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I understand your line of thought but i don't see how not releasing one product is "letting their consumers down" and this is coming from someone who has 3 M4/M16s waiting for said product. As soon as i get my M16 OB i'll be checking what parts changed and if the internal really are interchangeable with the old receivers.
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I just realised that i have way too much GBB's :S
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Yes those were the guiding rails i was talking about. If you're using the RAT hopup rubber that's actually to be expected, i found that the "nub" inside the RAT hopup rubber is too big for the hopup hole/window of the inner barrel and thus doesn't contact with the BB unless you apply quite a bit pressure into it.
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Semantics, it's just a linguistic convenience. And besides "precision rifle" is an ambiguous phrase when translated to my native language when we have two words that can and/or are directly translated to "rifle" but can mean two very distinct weapons depending on what your describing, so it's hard for me to say "precision rifle" when around here these types of weapons are usually called as "sniper rifles" ( translated of course ). My point is, just go with it and don't put much thought into it
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You sure like your sniper guns
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It is supposed to be a tight fit and provide a good seal. If the nozzle isn't retracting fully or has difficulty to do so it's a sign that you need to clean and lub the guiding rails and lub the o-ring.
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Well you *could* use the original trigger and just mod it, reinforcing the part of the trigger that engages the hammer. That's what some people ( me included ) was doing back in the day where such aftermarket solutions didnt exist. See the following post to understand what i'm talking about, http://www.arniesairsoft.co.uk/forums/index.php?showtopic=170736&st=6360 ( just scroll down until you see the post i'm talking about ).
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Well that sucks ... I'm just spoiled since i always have a thousand extra parts laying around and can substitute them to see where the problem comes from. Don't you know someone who also has a WE G36 and ask him to quickly swap receivers ?
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Just bought a WE M16VN ... Let's hope it arrives soon *crosses fingers*
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That's the idea. I'll make a review and compare it to the old AWSS system
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if its good enough, I might have to jump back into GBB AR-15s
damn you, WE
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Well i expect the M4 to be at least as accurate as my M14 and if the trigger group is the same as the old system, i already have bomb proofs part laying around. I have high expectations for it.
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Well if it were me i would install all the original parts, if you have them, and see if the problems go away. Them substitute one by one and till you pinpoint the problem ( i would try the firing pin base first ). It's a tedious job but when i don't know the cause of a problem it's what i do, it usually does the trick. Royal pain the *albartroth* though
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Regarding the trigger group, you either stick to original parts or you buy the complete set made out of steel from the get go, mixing potmetal and steel parts ( even the mild steel that ra-tech uses ) will just lead to fatal failure. I might be missing something but i don't see how the trigger group could influence that massive drop in power ... I would give the G36 a good disassembly and check all important parts if i were you, like nozzle ( does it moves freely and smoothly ? ), floating valve and it's spring, hopup unit, how the carrier is moving ( freely and smoothly ? ). Last time
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Doing maintnance on his guns.
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My teammate played with his G39 in near 0c and the gun performed flawlessly and there are many players who can attest that and even lower temperatures. And I don't even see how is possible to have chopped BB's when most if not all parts who interface with the BB's are made of plastic, unless you're using VERY brittle bb's.
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Hmmm where did you get the that single only selector ?
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Push it and see if it snaps back to position, if not you either have the firing pin base getting stuck.
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I was a bit wary of how it would turn out but I actually quite like it. Not only that but I was surprised how much difference a simple VFG made ... With the short barrel and the VFG, I can handle the M14 beautifully.
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Was thinking the same thing ... Shouldn't you switch the stocks ?
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... is sweating like a pig.
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Maybe the firing pin isn't smooth and is catching the release valve, not going to the "up position" fully when you put the mag on before cocking it ? If this was a M4 i would tell you to put the mag into the magwell with the receivers open to see if the firing pin is being fully depressed but being a G36 this isn't really possible
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First of all sorry for teh crappy photo quality
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And cheaper ! What is the correct size, 7mm ?
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That's darn beautiful tinydata ... making me helluva jealous since i cannot get those goodies around here
