Raven1
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Posts posted by Raven1
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@ Erebus
On That MIAD make sure to use the KJW grip fastener as the Magpul Fastener is slightly L O N G E R than the Kay Jay Dub Ya fastener is bro !
I've had every Magpul grip on mine and currently have the Umbrella Corp Grip installed and never have had An Issue as I've always used the KJW fastener.
QUICK TIP:
When Removing the grip have the rifle inverted ( Upside Down With Grip Orientated To The Ceiling )
Make Sure to have new grip staged - as in out of the packaging, ready and in easy reach in front of you!
Verify Selector Is On 'Safe'
With fastener removed, gently 'Rock' the grip side to side ( Not Front/Muzzle - To Back/Stock ) while pulling up at the same time.
!Slowly So That way the spring doesn't launch on you!
Making sure to capture the detent spring for the selector, set aside.
Set the old grip aside and grab the new grip.
Slide new grip fully into place,
Verify Good contact all the way around, if there are no irregularities ( as in no filing or trimming needed)
Gently slide Grip away from lower about half inch or 15mm - Place selector detent spring into place ( Be Aware Spring MIGHT Be At An Angle ! If this IS the case place the spring into its home - Gently slide the grip down to where it just makes contact - Then Slowly VERIFY The Spring IS Compressing and NOT Being Smashed Flat Between Grip And Lower Receiver Body ) If It Is then use a small flat blade screw driver to compress and Hold the spring into the lower receiver and slide the grip on top of and small blade Flat screw driver so that the grip is now holding the screw driver. Slide the screw driver out and install the fastener and let the good times roll baby . . .
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Hola Bitchachos ! !
Just a quick note to let you know I have extensively tested the COMPLETE V1+ Bolt Carrier and this is a sweet reliability upgrade ! ! !
Been gone for a minute as I've been busy ( So Don't ASK ! )
I apologize in advance for my Overly Detailed Reports on the KJW M4 . . .
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@ Kai_Wolf
Bro, PM Sent, I Have Some Outstanding News For You !
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welcome back!!!...i have one...how exactly can i do the rapid fix on the rubber belt ?
thanks in advance.
The belt is Nylon and provides tension on both sides of the charging handle to the upper receiver where it contacts.
The Nylon belt serves 2 functions,
To take provide tension AND a slick Lubricated like surface for the charging handle/Bolt Carrier Group Assembly to smoothly & freely move front to back.
To provide a mechanism to smoothly engage the Bolt Cup moving back to its 'Home Position' fully collapsed on the Carrier, the spring fully seating the Bolt Cup.
Guys, when opening and separating the upper receiver from the lower receiver make sure the Nylon Band is NOT Catching and the BCG slides easily in/out in the upper receiver First BEFORE mating to the lower receiver.
This is typically how the band gets damaged and eventually snaps, due to rough handling of how the BCG is placed into the upper receiver or it catching slightly when the 2 halves are shut...
Hope This Helps
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Apologies All,
Answered All PMs and am available to help anyone who has inquiry...
-Raven1
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So the only way I could get an ASAP to work is to remill it to take RS buffers?
Correct,,,
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Has anyone else tried attaching any other sling adapters onto these guys?
I'm interested in the Magpul ASAP. Has anyone tried it yet?
I had my lower receiver machined to accept a MilSpec buffer tube so that it will accept ANY stock end plate.
Of course I did it specifically to utilize the Magpul A.S.A.P Plate and it works great.
How Ever - The KJW M4 in it's stock form from the factory is physically incapable of using WA Spec Stock End Plates,,,
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hey guys just a quick question... while cleaning my m4 today two smaller parts, a spring and what seems to be a cap for the spring fell out of my piston cup today... i have no idea as to how to put them back in? when checking the manual the parts are supposed to be 17, and 17a and 35 being the spring but only that one black cap fell out and it looks nothing like the parts displayed in the manual. its really weird and i was wondering i figured you guys would know about this... heres a link to the parts mentioned. http://www.arniesairsoft.co.uk/forums/index.php?app=gallery&module=user&user=66582&do=view_album&album=1763
Occasionally you will need to look up through the magazine well and verify that the plunger is fully seated against the pin that passes through both sides of the BCG.
The Sequence of Installation is:
Screw In Round Pin ( Part # 24 ) is removed from the Left Side of the Bolt Cup ( Part # 15 )
The plunger ( Part # 17 ) comes out next.
Followed by the Spring ( Part # 35 )
To Install hold the Bolt Cup NOZZLE Pointing Straight Down
Drop In Spring ( Part # 35 )
Drop In Plunger ( Part # 17 ) with O-Ring ( Part # 17A ) Installed Onto Plunger
Use A Ball Point Pen or Similar to Verify the plunger closes and seats into the inside of the nozzle easily.
If it does not then there is some debris there that needs to be cleaned/removed.
Once you are Sure The Plunger is moving freely and seating smoothly.
Push down on the plunger with ball point pen or similar.
This will allow the Screw in round pin to be installed from the side of the bolt cup.
Pass the screw in round pin Over the plunger and fasten down screw in round pin once you see it is capturing and holding the plunger.
In Short the plunger is slammed shut by pressure from the expanding gases.
The gases flow around the 4 internal orifices of the plunger.
BB is expelled out of the inner barrel.
Pressure continues to climb and over comes the plunger spring ( Part # 35 ) pressure.
Closing the Plunger ( Part # 17 ) against its O-Ring Seal ( Part # 17A ) .
Pressure Continues to rise pushing back against the piston driving the carrier into the buffer tube.
The Phenomenon here is the Plastic Construction of the Plunger ( Part # 17 ) is it deteriorates over time and WILL Crack.
When It Does Crack it breaks apart from the constant stress of cycling the bolt carrier group.
This also destroys the Spring ( Part # 35 ) and O-Ring Seal ( Part # 17A ) Along with it.
I seriously recommend using the Cradle Piston as it is Billet Aluminum and will never break apart.
From then on all you will need to do is replace the spring ( Part # 35 ) every 5000 BBs shot.
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Raven, did you ever end up posting up the proper maintenance of magazines? I'm getting nervous now after about 4 games of running my KJ that I should take apart the mag to clean it, but don't want to venture in without someone telling me what to expect. I hate when I open something, and a small piece rolls across my desk that I don't recognize. Any help?
I have many pages ago.
Please PM me and I will answer any and all questions you have regarding the magazines.
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t_hum Correct, Auto sear spring will slow your rate of fire if it is in the incorrect orientation.
@ Sirrith
Double check the springs for your auto sear are in the correct orientation. First the locking Spring for the auto sear pin ( Part # 76 )
If the auto sear ( Part # 57 ) is not freely moving properly it will affect ROF or in some cases if the auto sear spring ( Part # 72 ) doesn't hold the Bolt Carrier Group will not fully cycle.
Verify that the auto sear spring is properly seated On Top of the Hammer Pin ( Part # 65 ) which also lock that hammer pin down and keeps it from sliding out.
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That's interesting - the CQB-R is a newer rifle, but it was paired with an older magazine? Was the magazine revision done before the CQB-R came out?
Anyway, I'm glad to hear that it's something that simple! Thanks a lot.
Hard to say as one can never really tell about the magazine unless one pulls the spring and verifies the thickness.
The old revision of spring is Identical EXCEPT for the thickness. The New Springs are Thicker,,,
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Hello folks,
I just received my new CQB-R in the mail today. I'm quite impressed with it overall - shoots great, feels great, sounds great... it is great. Except for the bolt lock feature.
When I run out of BBs, the bolt lock is very temperamental about working - sometimes it does, and sometimes it doesn't. I agonized over the cause of this, and have ultimately determined that the magazine is sitting too low in the rifle. If I push up on the magazine and dry-fire, the bolt locks back 100% of the time.
So in summary, the bolt lock isn't engaged by the magazine's actuator because the magazine is too low. Has anyone else experienced this, and if so, does anyone know a good fix for it? Thanks.
Sounds like you have an early version magazine with the weaker follower spring. Part # M14, once this is changed out it will work perfectly,,,
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Reading (most of) this thread convinced me to buy the gun, but I have a quick question I hope you can answer:
The seller instructed me to always pull the charging handle before inserting a magazine, to protect the nozzle.
I dont really know anything about GBB rifles, but this is not the way it is done in the manual, nor in any of the online videos with the gun.
Does it serve any purpose? I will have to do it again anyway, to chamber a BB when the magazine is in place.
Not Necessary on the KJW M4 !
The Nozzle is built into the Bolt and is 2X as thick and 3X longer than 'Other' designs making the Nozzle much more resilient and stronger.
How Ever: Some magazines may Not fully seat with the Bolt Carrier Group in full battery and it helps to pull the BCG back slightly to seat easier. But this isn't always necessary everytime,,,
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Hey guys, Im having an issue right now. I just transplanted the used upper given to me by Raven onto my gun and Im seeming to have hopup issues. I noticed no weight bb I used was getting significant hop up unless I put it on the setting where there is no click, but a drag of movement on the hop up adjuster where the hop up arm is the lowest. Then it would hop up too high. I looked down the barrel on all settings and the rubber didnt seem to move at all or go lower. I installed everything correctly and I didnt have this issue with my old upper that broke. In fact, I remember my hop up working fine when i first installed the new upper. I had not shot it for a few weeks, and now, hop up dosnt like me. Any ideas?
PM me and I'll guide you through this,,,
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I am ordering my KJW GBBR on friday if all goes well and they don't get sold out. I am going for the cqbr version and buying the Cradle airsoft upgrades. I never worked on an aeg, would installing the upgrades be something I can do even though I never did an aeg?
Yes!
The Cradle parts are simple to install and only take minutes to complete the work. There is a tutorial video on the website that is available if you get stuck.
You will find that ALL GBBRs are not as difficult to work on as an AEG as there is much less moving parts.
Congrats on purchasing the KJW CQBR - You're Going To Be Very Satisfied,,,
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Quick Update On The 'Buffer MOD'
As Some here would know I decided to 'MOD' my gun to facilitate the use of Single Point Attachment Stock Receiver End Plates Such As the Magpul A.S.A.P. Plate.
I have been running the KJW M4 in this configuration now for 2 months now and have found the best Reliable configuration.
Mil Spec Buffer Tube MOD = Buffer Tube, A.S.A.P. Plate, Buffer Tube Castle Nut,
Winter Weight Spring
Mil Spec Buffer Modified to Non Moving Internal Weight of 62 Gram Total.
GEN 1 Carrier Weight Removed ( NOT Present if you have Later Model KJW M4 )
With the Above Configuration the gun runs very well and feels great to shoot with!
Using the 'Winter Weight' Action Spring which is Very Near the same Tension as the Factory KJW Action Spring the gun have a definite increase in felt recoil. This is due to the larger diameter Buffer being moved inside the buffer tube. At first I did leave the buffer weights freely moving inside the buffer and the recoil was stronger still.
I have a GEN 1 KJW M4 as mine arrived with a serial # etched on the side. This KJW M4 came equipped with a Weight installed into the carrier ( The NEW Model KJW M4s DO NOT Have This Weight In The Carrier ) When testing this carrier weight was installed on the carrier as it had always been.
BUT, to keep the gun as reliable as possible I made the Buffer weights inside the buffer fit tightly with No Movement - Just Like the Solid Metal Factory KJW M4 Buffer.
There is felt recoil Increase and the gun runs reliably and shoots crisply.
Below IS For Reference:
Mil Spec Buffer Weight = 84 Grams
KJW Factory Buffer Weight = 62 Grams
AABB Aluminum Speed Buffer = 50 Grams
At first I ran the gun with:
Summer Weight Spring
Mil Spec 84 Gram Buffer
Felt Recoil Was INCREDIBLE - Stronger Than Factory WA - but the Bolt Catch Broke after a few times of locking the bolt back! Also please note that the GEN 1 carrier weight was still present in the carrier.
So This Configuration Was A No Go For Me!
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@Snoopy - I did use a sling, yes. A one point Bungee. I only use it on occasion and it was super hot out yesterday, I think that may have had something to do with it.
Bro,
I've got your Addy you will have my Old Upper inbound this week!
It has a broken front tab on the primary side but the reaction side is still intact as well as the rear take down pin.
I hope this will tye you over until all the B.S. with the ATF is over and we can start getting uppers from KJW Again,,,
-Raven1
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@ stickyittoyou
I have all the information together, I just need to put it together in the proper format to make it easier to understand,,,
@ dotty3107
Are the BBs just 'dropping' straight down at that range?
Are the BBs shooting off to the left or the right?
With the BBs just dropping it is not enough back spin. So it is either oily hop up bucking or you need to add another click on the dial wheel.
If you had your magazine dump all it's gas then it definitely deposited some oil on your hop up bucking. Use several 'Q-tips' to swab the oil out and that should straighten things out.
If the BBs are shooting off to the right or left:
If you have replaced the front set and disturbed the Hop Up house ( the 2 halves ) these 2 items need to equal in length or you'll have hop up issues. Also be sure the screw that holds down the Dial wheel in the upper receiver is not loose or this will affect your hop up as well.
!Guys Remember!
When oiling your magazines be sure to fill your magazines with a 2 - 3 second fill of gas.
The evacuate all the gas to remove excess oil - BEFORE Loading Up BBs and Shooting The Gun!
If You Do Not Then Oil Will Get Deposited On Your Hop Up Bucking!
Your BBs Will Be UNDER Hopped!!
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@ Alex Chang
Only someone with a new gun will be able to confirm, hopefully somebody with one will do so. Or at least check their manual,,,
@ Kai_Wolf
Received your PM but it states I am unable to reply! Dunno what is going on?
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@ Sam McKenzie
File then sand the Carrier Extension to round off the sharp ends.
Use the Super Lube Grease in the Bolt Cup + Buffer Tube & Buffer.
Magazines:
Use Tuf Oil - 'Lubit 8' to oil your magazine Valve from up top 2 - 3 drops and you're good to go!
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@ Kai_Wolf
Dood, your profile is Not accepting any PMs??
PM me bro I need to speak with you,,,
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@ Bastel
Post a Pic up of your lower so we can get a look at it please.
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@ Break100
Please look on Page 102 - Post # 2033 - Below Is The Link -
This is where Semi Auto & Full Auto Fire is Explained,,,
KJW M4
in Rifles (Gas)
Posted
Wat up Snoop A Loop ! Hope All Is Well Bruh ! ! !