TDS

Yo folks, been on vacation Quick question: has anyone gotten the mcmaster numbers for the various magazine O rings? (not the big square one)? Have about 15 magazines I need to de-leak...

m1. Full auto is a 3 step process. 1. the bolt blows back and locks the hammer back to position 1, if you have semi, this works 2. the bolt comes forward, triggers part #66 to reset the trigger, setting hammer to position 2, this naturally happens when you let go of the trigger or when the trigger is cycled normally via being in full auto, the part of the trigger unit that lets go of this and cycles to position 2 during full auto is probably your proble 3. if the trigger is still down, the gun fires straight from #2, if it's not, the sear is not released, boom, no full aut

Where did you get the RA-hopup kit? I haven't seen it on their website.

That's unfortunate, because the guns are pretty awesome. I was really, really needing a new inner barrel for my m4 as well =/ hopefully someone picks up where ASB failed horrible

The gun will continue to vent gas until the bolt pulls the hammer off the valve, if the bolt handle "trench" is not deep enough, it could be requiring your bolt to take much more gas to get moving, therefore draining your mags quicker. Could also be a leak, or part 66

As above, I don't think its a mounting problem since you've managed to install the older barrel and have it work, it's probably a 117 malformed problem. I'm actually a bit concerned at overall quality in the wetti guns since doing my first to-the-screw take down of my rifle to get it up to sniper spec for next year, just misc finishing problems, some nozzle bits weren't finished at all so where the part was cut threads were starting to peel off the part, half the parts are slightly misaligned (checked multiple receivers) and the normal give of the system compensates. Anyways Has anyon

I broke 2 "reinforced" ones before going to thewarstore's steel version, kind of ridicilous. you really want to go all out and get the heaviest version of that part, by the time you replace it 2-3 times you have spent more than the steel one would have cost.

magazine push-springs are too weak, upgrade them.

Well that's interesting. here's a question, which side is the floating valve springon, is it on the rear of the valve pushing the valve forward or the front of the valve pushing the valve backwards? In other words nozzle----<= spring->valve =|----Blackguiderodthing or nozzle----<= valve<-spring =|----Blackguiderodthing

Only thing i can think of is the barrel being seated wrong which leaves the bolt "locked" forward in a slightly forwards/backwards position, venting more gas into blowback than normal. Assuming your floating valve spring isnt broken or misaligned causing the floating valve to close very quickly.

Less innane garbage in informational threads please. If it doesn't have the slightest effect the other 1000+ people that view these threads it should be in PM

I havent cleaned my g36 in 6 years beyond barrel/hopup, 100,000+ rounds, playing virtually every weekend. AEG's are pretty self contained, as long as you aren't getting dirt inside the gearbox somehow or water into electrical connections they will run forever. They really don't need regular cleaning beyond "hey there's some smutz on my connectors lemme wipe that off with my fingernail real quick" and similiar.

I don't believe that part was ever ment to be /easily/ adjustable, just so that you can tune your gun to your fields specific FPS limits. If it was any more "practical " I'd be working on banning or reducing its use at my field because players can't handle easily adjustable fps, period.

Do you mean the original gas nozzles or c02 one's dont have the problem? sorry just bad wording and have a c02 nozzle in the mail.

Cutting down the forums even more is sillly, there are already too many subforums to keep track of. We need an unbiased non-advertisement arnies wiki style site to quantify threads like these and the ones in the sniper subforum into useful information, There are a few of these out there but I think they are rather questionable sources of raw information.

Obvious: Tools to take apart your WE Silicone/wipe rag as most problems are just it being dirty Barrel cleaning kit White lithium grease Low grade loctite (for guide rod spacer) Good idea: O rings (once I am done moving into new house I'll be selling reinforced O ring sets) Extra Charging handle Extra nozzle assembly (or maybe extra bolt) Really beyond that, there aren't many failures, if you are making an overseas order I'd pick up all of the parts that are less than $5 "just in case" but the only consistent failures I'm seeing are O ring/magazine based, or chargi

My rifle, near the end of the day, in auto, I would pull the trigger and then the gun would go off anywhere from 1-3 seconds later, ive a feeling this was a dirt/pressure issue as my mags were probably mostly empty by then and the gun was filthy when I got home with it, Good call though I'll check the trigger sears when I get the chance.

Hopup is crazy until you put a few thousand rounds through yours, until then just use the heaviest bb's you can get ahold of Haven't had the channel issue, the stock maglocks wear very quickly

Right One way to see would be to mark the bolt and hold it right where its getting stuck on the trigger unit with the upper rec. off In messing around with my rifle I had a similiar "stuck" state but that was when the trigger was "fired" and the bolt was back at the same time because I had the buffer tube off.

On my rifle on the way forward it also "catches" mysteriously on something, but its not enough to stop the bolt. I'm thinking that the extra rubbing plus this mystery catch is enough to stop your bolt completely. I'm wondering if its getting stuck on the secondary sear? (the one behind the hammer?)

Correct, he just more fully explained the conditions in which this problem occurred. It is also reproducible if you gently let the bolt return because the last 1/8th" or so has high resistance that has to be overcome by momentum of the bolt, but when the bolt is fully forward, it is holding that sear forward which would enable the trigger, the only way this would not happen would be excessive wear, a broken sear, or in my case a slightly unseated bolt, or causing it on purpose. I'm confused as to what causes the burst fire for some users while in semi, the bolt either not being fully

Well if it was happening before you upgraded it isn't those parts so I wouldn't matter, I'll take a look at my rifle and brainstorm a little later.

Only thing I can suggest at this point is going back to all stock internal parts except the c02 bolt and seeing if you have the same issue and then add them one at a time. Do you get garbage performance on propane too?

If you weren't a million miles away i'd take a look at it just for the learning experience. If you play with the trigger mech manually with your finger, holding down the trigger and moving the hammer around in semi, can you reproduce the doubleshot burst?

Well let me break down the problem as best I can which is usually how I solve things. Assumptions: -Gun is not getting very many shots per mag -Mag is not leaking -Gun does not crono very high -O ring seals are good So the gas is going "somewhere" just not forward, If the seal between the mag and bolt was bad, it would take more gas to start the blowback and reset the hammer, which might give you that behavior. Or it could be the bolt itself binding or leaking gas, causing more to be required to blow it back and reset the hammer, it could be anything from a bad seal, to