warspite
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Posts posted by warspite
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GHK Sig 551 Tactical
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Just purchased a ViperTech HK 416D gas blowback.
Was surprised to discover that my unit has no HK markings. Just want to ask if Umarex put a stop to ViperTech HK markings or did the latter produce blank HK 416 receivers?
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I just purchased a VFC Robinson XCR. The manual states that the XCR uses a medium type motor. However, the pistol grip's dimensions doesnt look large enough (the grip motor well seems too narrow) to take a regular medium type motor. Am I mistaken?
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After reading the review, I finally purchased a VFC M4ES 105R. Im very glad I got this rifle.
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I'm more inclined to think the problem is you bought an SRC, any reason that you didn't plumb for a CA or G&P?
Well, I already have five G&P Rifles (FN M16A4/M-14 DMR/Defender/Sentry VLTOR/Magpul PTS MOE M4 CQB) and three Classic Army ones (SLR105A1/MP5SD6/AUG A1). I guess I was just curious how SRC products perform when I made that mistaken purchase. To my horror, the SRC Gen 2 V3 gearbox was poorly reinforced; Tappet plate, selector plate and cylinder head were all made of brittle plastic; piston body, gears, spring and hop packing were all a joke (in other words, complete rubbish). As far as Im concerned, I will never again even contemplate purchasing an SRC.
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A Taiwanese proprietor of a local airsoft shop is trying his best to sweet talk me into buying an SRC Gen 3 M4 or AK, instead of the more expensive Vega Force M4. He swears by the SRC Gen 3's improved performance. I on the otherhand remain skeptical. I had the unfortunate experience of having once purchased a Gen 2 SRC XR-8-2 (HK XM-8) which proved to be nothing but junk externally and more so internally, Since then I have not bought an SRC. However, I must admit that I almost gave in recently, thanks to all your posts, Im staying clear of SRC. Thank you for saving me from another miserable purchase.
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It's been a while since I posted on this thread. Havent had any issues with my ACR post upgrade. One thing which was left out during the upgrade though was the cylinder head and airseal nozzle as there were no appropriate replacements a year ago. Can anyone give me any advice on what I could replace my ACR's proprietary stock cylinder head and airseal nozzle?
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Im thinking of purchasing this piece as a back-up sidearm. Only concern is the fact that it's a Chinese clone. Experience have taught me to be very cautious with Chinese made clones which are often times of poor manufacture.
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My recently upgraded Sentry VLTOR (Im a purist and prefer less accessories),
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Decided to replace the G&P Aimpoint on a "Z" mount with a lighter optical device (a Micro Aimpoint).
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Magpul PTS: MASADA-SD (M4-2000) and Blackout 51T Flash Hider
http://airsoft.ua/en/news/871.html
But it's not for the US...
Cant wait to get my hands on these.
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Nah, looks cool, I like it! ^^
Thanks Ycare. Spent an entire day field testing the rifle. Thoroughly satisfied with the upgrade. Again, many thanks to Tacitus for his help in sorting out my Masada and recommending parts for the upgrade. I now have the best sorted out Masada in my team.
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Just got my Masada from the upgrade shop. So far it seems to be performing well.
I'm starting to wonder if the G&P aimpoint with "Z" type mount looks odd on it .
Will be field testing my rifle over the weekend. Keeping my fingers crossed.
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I don't have any, but I can take some. It's not very pretty in there but it all works. Is there anything specific you'd like to see?
I don't have the space to do proper accuracy tests, so I don't know if the hopup even needs upgrading. The nub is intergrated into the hopup unit, which I haven't opened up yet as I still need to buy a 4mm roll pin punch, so I can't say how easy it would be to replace with a regular nub.
I only know this because I took the microswitch apart to see how it worked! I'm one of those people who has to take everything apart
I'd still be wary of a gunsmith who favoured modifying a microswitch over installing a mosfet though. The benefits of a mosfet are just too great to justify fiddling about with a miscroswitch, in my opinion.The cut-off lever is also proprietary unfortunately, but without having it in front of me I can't say if it's the cause of the problem. The whole trigger/fire selector design is actually very poor, and there are many possible causes. Loose manafacturing tolerances being a major concern.
Yeah, some people have had bad experiences with SHS gears, myself included. I actually started an almost identical topic to the one you linked to, Anakchan. I should have been more specific when suggesting them: They are very affordable, so can be worth experimenting with if you don't want to fork out $100+ for a set of Siegetek gears. If they do break, it's the gear axle that goes so it can be replaced with a different axle (from a TM gear for example). I haven't seen any reports of the actual teeth breaking. Reports of axle failures have dried up now, so it may have just been a bad batch. I'd buy them again for a budget build, but if I can afforf it I'd go for Siegetek every time. I don't think anyone has broken Siegetek gears, at least when using them for their intended purpose. They also have some very nice design features.
That doesn't sound too optimistic to me. If you don't want to get your hands dirty with upgrading and tuning it yourself, a decent gunsmith will be able to reach that power level reliably.
How long are you in London for? I actually live in London, so if you brought your Masada gearbox with you, I could actually upgrade it for you while you're here. I don't think Red Wolf UK sell directly to the public, but there are plenty of retailers here. Unfortunately they are fairly expensive, and don't sell the cheap Chinese products I like to use, so I prefer to order from eHobbyAsia to save money. Orders usually take only 7 days to arrive so this might be a feasible option for you too.
While you're in London you might want to visit Wolf Armouries in Camden. It's nothing special and overpriced, but they have a few nice bits of kit lying around.
Similar to mine, apart from the 'fet. Have you installed the gearbox, hopup and bolt release sensors for your Scorpion? I've wanted to try out an AWS 'fet for a while now.
I've been to Red Wolf HK and had purchased direct from their HK office (in Kawloon), so I assume the same is true in England (although I must admit, for a lawyer, I never bothered to check UK laws re: airsoft related purchases). I will probably be there the second week of January and will be staying at Chelsea Cloisters (as I do not want to impose on my sister's family) for two to three weeks, then it's off to Brussels. I am very curious about Wolf Armories though.
I must apologize Tacitus, Im a creature of habit, and often reluctant to try out new things even when it comes to airsoft parts. Although, as I type this message, I have on my table, Siegetek gears I purchased yesterday. I appreciate your tremendous assistance in sorting out my ACR. All I need now is a skillful gunsmith (I might just take you up on your offer should no sufficiently competent gunsmith be found locally).
I had the opportunity to watch my friend open his ACR's gearbox, and you were right. That was the smallest and weirdest looking cut-off lever I have ever seen. As you have forewarned me, the cylinder head is unique in having an unusually long brass nozzle which dictates an equally odd airseal nozzle without any 0-rings. The only redeeming quality of the ACR other than its handsome externals, is perhaps its nicely reinforced gearbox.
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It's unfortunate that your Tavor microswitch caused such problems, but it's very useful for Masada owners to know about! The microswitch is actually mechanical, and not electronic. If your gunsmith can modify the switch with thicker metal, it will decrease resistance thereby increasing the current it can handle. It does seem like an unnecessary modification however, considering that a MOSFET would bypass the microswitch completely while providing other benefits. I'd be suspicious of a gunsmith who felt he didn't have the skill to install a MOSFET in the Masada. While it's more complicated than some guns, it's easily possible as the handguard area is very spacious for extra electronics etc. I have a SW-AB LONG from Extreme Fire, with some extra electronics I've added to power my internal LED tracer unit.
Systema gears are notoriously weak, so I would avoid them. When they fail they can take other parts with them due to loose pieces of metal getting caught between other moving parts. Again, there's more info on this at AirsoftMechanics.com. I would recommend forking out the money for a set of Siegetek gears, but people have had good results from the cheap SHS/5KU/Element gears (all the same product, rebranded).
I don't know what your target FPS is, but I'm not knowledgable enough to say what power level might damage the gearbox structurally. You may well be able to go higher than a PDI 190% spring, but you will have to check ASM (linked above), research it, then make an educated guess based on information on V2 gearboxes (or even better ARES V2 gearboxes). You should also be aware that you can gain higher FPS simply by improving the airseal, so that should be your first goal if you want to use a slightly weaker spring. Teflon tape around the cylinder head, and around the hopup bucking will prevent airleaks at those points. Unfortunately the proprietary air nozzle has no O-ring inside it, presenting an airleak with no easy solution. You might be able to modify an airseal nozzle designed for a different gun to work in the Masada, such as this one after tapering the end to actually fit inside the bucking. Also I found the stock O-ring to cause too much friction inside the cylinder. I replaced mine with a stock TM O-ring with great results.
Let me know how your upgrade progresses.
I appreciate your gesture in correcting my mistaken notion regarding micro switches and their mechanical nature. Perhaps, I should learn to be more trustful of local gunsmithing skills. However, I neglected to ask what type of cut-off lever the Magpul ACR has? I ask, because a team mate's ACR now refuses to engage single/semi firing.
As for the Siegetek gears, I've seen a set or two and was quite curious about them. SHS gears on the otherhand, I've had some horrific experiences with them, where they completely failed in the heat of battle. Local airsofters wouldn't touch them with a ten foot pole (but then again, it could possibly be attributed to poor tuning).
My target FPS is 430-450 FPS, but that may seem overly optimistic at this point.
Thankfully, I have yet to experience any problems with my systema geared AEGs. But I will take your advice and purchase siegetek gears. I will likewise apply your very sound suggestion re: teflon taping the cylinder head. As for my choice of Mosfet, I purchased a TMX Pro with active braking. Frankly, I don't know the brand, but the two recent local gunbans related to our national elections and the much publicized and bungled tourist bus hostage incident which resulted in the deaths of several Hong Kong tourists, and the resultant yet understandable resentment of the Chinese towards my countrymen, have made importation all but impossible.
Not to worry though, I will be visiting my sister in Chelsea soon, and I intend to make up for the supply shortfall with ample purchases from Red Wolf UK while I'm in England.
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What problem have you encountered with your Tavor?
The cylinder head is unfortunately also proprietary, which I forgot to mention in my review. This is due to the length of the cylinder head nozzle. Luckily it's not a part which needs upgrading, as a perfect airseal can be acheived by wrapping some PTFE (Teflon) sealing tape around the cylinder head.
The Systema silent piston head is a bad choice, so I would discourage you from buying it if you haven't done so already. It is not supposed to be used with normal cylinder heads due to the shape. It's too heavy (heavy piston assemblies are to be avoided), and lastly it's overpriced like 99% of Systema's product range.
As far as I'm aware, it's very difficult to crack a gearbox unless you're unlucky and recieve one with a manafacturing defect, or you are running a very high power setup (for which careful tuning is crucial). The PDI 190 is a relatively weak spring so you will probably not crack your gearbox with it, but other parts may fail. I don't know what other parts you plan to upgrade, but I doubt the Masada could pull that spring at a decent rate of fire, or last long before something breaks. I wouldn't expect the magwell screw holes in the Masada gearbox to affect its durability at all, as they are well away from the cylinder window (the part which cracks when a gearbox does start to fail). But I'm far from the best person to comment on the durability of gearboxes. Head over to the forums at AirsoftMechanics.com and run some searches on gearbox durability (and look for info on a decent piston head too). All the information you need on airsoft is already on that forum. You don't even need to start a new topic. The Masada gearbox is similar enough to the V2 gearbox that information you find on the V2 will largely apply to the Masada gearbox in terms of design. As for durability I don't think anyone has done actual tests, and I don't think you'd be able to persuade anyone to run tests, as the only way to get a new shell would be to buy a new Masada. There are a few steps you can take to minimise stress to the gearbox shell, but without any scientifically obtained data on the durability of the shell, you'll have to just do your best and see how it goes.
Re: the Tavor, my team mates and I made the mistake of upgrading our units without checking the specs for its micro switch. After a few games using an 11.1v 1450 mAh 15C li-poly battery coupled to a Classic Army Extreme motor, my rifle gave out. Had my air smith replace the switch with a higher capacity one. Unfortunately, it took two months to finally iron out all issues.
As of today, I am still locked in a debate with my new air smith (actually the only one with upgrading experience with the Magpul Masada so far), with me insisting on a Mosfet, and the air smith claiming that he can rectify the switch problem by installing a thicker copper plate (to which I argued that a micro switch being electronic, the effort will basically make no difference).
Re: The Systema Silent Type Piston Head, I will take your advice and avoid it.
As for the ACR's gearbox, my over cautious approach is largely due to the fact that Philippine Shops are notorious for failing to provide proprietary spare parts for unique AEGs, forcing most to order from Red Wolf HK or direct from the manufacturer, which takes almost forever. I also took note of your assessment of the ACR's anti-reverse latch and have purchased a Guarder unit to replace it with.
For gears, I have opted for the Systema Helical STU ratio gears. My motor choice is Systema's Magnum motor (Both I have purchased earlier as possible spares).
As for the PDI, it is not my first choice, but i thought it prudent to stick to a safer alternative.
I appreciate your input and advice, and hopefully, all will be well with my Masada in a week.
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Received my UK-spec Masada last week, with 1 free Pmag kindly thrown in from Dingodogs.
"Microswitch/Trigger
The microswitch says it's rated for only 15A which is quite low, so it wouldn't last long if used with a high performance battery and motor combination without a mosfet. So while the microswitch is a nice idea, it's a half-baked one and something of a liability when upgrading. It doesn't provide much physical resistance, so you can't feel a nice, crisp click (although you can hear it). In fact, the design of the trigger is such that a trigger pull actually releases the switch, so installing a stronger microswitch wouldn't improve it. The trigger itself is let down hugely by the fire selector design becasue when reassembling the gun, it's very difficult to correctly align the selector gears with the lower receiver. This is a part which actually requires some 'tuning' to get right, which could have been so easily avoided with a better design. The trigger does seem to be very sensitive to slight fire-selector movement, bizzarely requiring a stronger trigger pull in certain positions. Definitely needs some learning to get right.
Motor
The motor doesn't use the strong neodymium magnets found in high performance motors, so this would be one of the first things to replace. The best motors can be bought for around $20, so it's a disappointment that the gun doesn't include one.
Anti-Reversal Latch
I had problems with the stock ARL. I'm not sure exactly what was wrong with it, as it didn't appear to be binding on anything, but there was audible backspin until I replaced it.
Gears
I reaplaced the stock gears immediately, so I can't comment on their performance or durability. It was disappointing to see that the bevel gear only has 4 ARL teeth."
I appraciate the review. I suspected that the micro switch might present a problem during upgrading, having encountered a similar problem with my Ares CTAR-21 Tavor. My ACR is due for upgrading this week and I will be insisting on a MOSFET to avoid prematurely frying the micro switch. However, could you tell me what cylinder head type my ACR has? Is it a version 2 or 3 cylinder head? Also, in an attempt to prevent gearbox stress fractures from forming due to the weak points presented by the twin hex screws located in the mag well, I have decided to install a PDI 190 spring coupled with a systema silent type piston head and a sorbo pad. Do you think these will be enough to prevent gearbox failure? Your input on the matter will be highly appreciated.
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Received my UK-spec Masada last week, with 1 free Pmag kindly thrown in from Dingodogs.
"Microswitch/Trigger
The microswitch says it's rated for only 15A which is quite low, so it wouldn't last long if used with a high performance battery and motor combination without a mosfet. So while the microswitch is a nice idea, it's a half-baked one and something of a liability when upgrading. It doesn't provide much physical resistance, so you can't feel a nice, crisp click (although you can hear it). In fact, the design of the trigger is such that a trigger pull actually releases the switch, so installing a stronger microswitch wouldn't improve it. The trigger itself is let down hugely by the fire selector design becasue when reassembling the gun, it's very difficult to correctly align the selector gears with the lower receiver. This is a part which actually requires some 'tuning' to get right, which could have been so easily avoided with a better design. The trigger does seem to be very sensitive to slight fire-selector movement, bizzarely requiring a stronger trigger pull in certain positions. Definitely needs some learning to get right.
Motor
The motor doesn't use the strong neodymium magnets found in high performance motors, so this would be one of the first things to replace. The best motors can be bought for around $20, so it's a disappointment that the gun doesn't include one.
Anti-Reversal Latch
I had problems with the stock ARL. I'm not sure exactly what was wrong with it, as it didn't appear to be binding on anything, but there was audible backspin until I replaced it.
Gears
I reaplaced the stock gears immediately, so I can't comment on their performance or durability. It was disappointing to see that the bevel gear only has 4 ARL teeth."
I appreciate your review. I had some suspiscion about the micro switch as I have encountered a similar problem with my Tavor. My unit is going to the shop for upgrading tomorrow and I will be insisting on a mosfet.
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Had the same experience with the folding stock. Minor filing of the stock to fit is required it but slots on solidly after that. Still, it's not something you should have to live with for a gun in this price range..
After having my Magpul PTS ACR/Masada for quite a while now, I was seriously considering purchasing the Magpul Masada folding stock and sling mount, reading through the many posts on this thread, I'm suddenly not so sure anymore.
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I bought this as I always wanted to have a slightly different M4 varient but didn't want to pay the stupid prices that Prime charge for a kit and G&G was never going to get my money again after being burnt by the L85!!
So when A&K brought out their version I thought I'd have a punt. Just to give you a little background I have had over 30 ACM guns in the last 18 months or so from most of the manufacturers and I rate JG and CYMA above all else including TM but A&K was a new one and I was unsure what I was going to get.
The box is unimpressive plain card board with styrofoam inserts holding everything in place. the important thing was the gun though. WOW! it is impressive. all metal where it should be and an excellent finish. there were no creaks and the workmanship seemed first class. Apart from a lack of markings I would challenge anyone to tell the difference between this and the prime kit externally from a metre away.
As I thought though it came in a little warm, around 400fps and so it gave me a reason to open it up. Worth noting here is that as the upper receiver is quite a bit fatter than a standard M4 the bolt catch has a lovely habit of scoring the metal when you pull the upper forward to remove it. I'm not to bothered as I like my guns to look a bit beat up.
the body pins have little allen screws on one side to keep them in a la CA. once out the gearbox is a version 2 as expected with reinforcing ribs on the front - lovely touch and unexpected too on a gun of this value. also apparent are metal bushings and a bearing spring guide.
Inside the gears appear to be a good quality and greased well but not too much and the shimming in mine was spot on.
the battery goes in the fore grip which just slides off after being pried open a touch and it is firm when on; no danger of it flying off in the heat of battle. I fitted a 7.4v 1800mah flightpower lipo in there and once the motor height had been tweaked it ran like a nail driver all afternoon with oodles to spare at 350ish fps.
would i recommend it? hell yeah most of the guys who saw it are now toying with the idea of getting one including a PTW owner who couldn't quite believe how good it was and how cheap. IIRC £100 inc shipping and taxes.
Recently bought my own A&K LR300 shorty. Probably impulse buying on my part. Had it immediately upgraded with Classic Army Helical STU ratio gears and Extreme motor (long), as well as a Guarder Version 2 spring guide, cut-off lever, anti reverse latch and SP 130 spring. What i found a little disturbing is that the white plastric cylinder head, cylinder and air seal nozzle all seem proprietary and bored up. Tried replacing it with a guarder version 2 cylinder head and type "0" cylinder. To my utter consternation, it wouldnt fit in the gearbox. Ended up having to use the original cylinder head, nozzle and cylinder. Any suggestions?
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Have you had a chance to throw in any upgrades, warspite? I should hopefully get my ICS L85A2 soon, so I'd be interested to know what you found worked.
I have indeed. I had the gears replaced with Systema Energy Helical STU ratio gears. I also had a MOSFET installed and replaced the piston body and piston head with a Tactical Unlimited Titanium Teeth Piston Body (the version with a tooth less for a higher ROF) and Systema Duracon Piston Head. Decided to keep the ICS Turbo 300 motor. Finally, for a spring, I had a Systema M130 installed. My unit now clocks at 460 fps.
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Could you two explain why you choosen the ICS version over the Stars version please?
Am still having problems deciding between the two.
For me the main drawback for the star version as i discovered, was the plastic gearbox.
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QUOTE (hugh_b @ Apr 12 2008, 11:49 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Great review, i think i'm one of very few people in the UK to own one. I went to the shop to buy a ca but came away with this! So so pleased i did. I've left mine stock, just added a barrel mounted torch. Just a quick question...what rails are you running on the foregrip? How do they attach and where can i purchase some? Also is there much movement through them via the vertical foregrip? thanks-Hugh
I have just bought a KWA KM4A1 CQB and I have to say it is superior to my Classic Army M15A4 in every respect. It has a superb quality finish and performance, making my C.A. look ancient.
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