intinerious

Only because MB designed it that way. Other KEYMOD components won't fit the bottom rail if you remove the locking nut and just use the screw to lock the RIS to the MB NSR.

From reviews on the Google machine it seems like they had to do it because Noveske required them to. Which is *fruitcage* ridiculous given that they have a pin in place to prevent a gas tube from going into the receiver anyway. But it was either spending ~100 USD on the MB rail or ~300 USD trying to get someone to get me a real one from the US. One good thing about this (only because we give MB such a low bar in quality) is that the top rail seems to be on-spec (comparing it with the G&P receiver, and assuming G&P is on-spec). Not visibly thicker or higher than the G&P rece

WIP. Barrel is too long; I need to swap the 7" extension into it so that it'll be somewhat flush with the NSR9. Got the silver barrel set with the 3,5,7 inch extensions and the AEG and WA GBBR receiver adapters because I'll be swapping in a pistol length gas block + tube assembly to build a 300BLK gun. Pretty much trying to replicate The Johnny Rifle (the one John Noveske poses with in the pics you can find on Google) but in Black and running an SR7 suppressor rather than a SDN-6 because no one makes a replica of it . Also trying to get a NF NXS scope replica for the gun on a KAC mou

Now get a KAC receiver set XD

Word of caution though; don't expect the retailers to be stocking the new ones. I'm in HK so I can always check in the retail store before purchasing but I would think there's still a lot of old SF clones in the shops. Also, the Vampire head has a delay regardless of whether you're on white light or strobe mode. It's like 1/2 a second....it's noticeable My guess would be that there's a LOT of resistance in the Vampire head itself. If you can't live with that I don't think any of the current clones would be something you want to purchase. Just a heads up if you're looking into gett

Ripped it from my M620V clone that Night Evo makes (body is the old Element SF m600c clone). As far as I know Element haven't 'released' their OEM version of it but they've now changed their rear tail switches to the same ones that NE uses. If I see just the head on sale or if Element release the m620v/m600v with the correct SF trades I'll let you know

More KAC spam! Needs a DBAL in Tan IMO plus a SF dual switch. What do you guys think? I'd rather use the Noveske KEYMOD mount for the m600 but no one has a replica and they cost too much for me to justify running a slicker mount right now

I can't be 100% sure but the WE adapter should work for all of their pistols that have internally threaded outer barrels. I don't know why the adapter you posted is specific for 1911 only....but given the threading should be the same across their guns I would say it works (but I can't be 100% certain). Perhaps drop them an email to see what they say? Or wait for others to chime in if they can confirm it's compatibility with the WE/HK3P GLock.

WE threaded barrel adaptors should work. After all, the HK3P guns are just WE guns with trades. The night sites should be compatible as well, since it's a copy of the TM. Hope that helps.

PM'd. And sorry for the confusion guys, DYTAC's rails are anodized. I was thinking about something a friend of mine said when talking about the clone URX4's and he said the DYTAC one had a more 'powdercoated-like finish", not that it was powder-coated. The main thing is the IA rail feels smoother whereas the DYTAC one feels rougher. Was applying for a bunch of internship positions at the same time I was replying to Mazor's post Sorry about the confusion! Both should be anodized. I dunno why there is a difference in finish though; I'm no expert on anodization myself.

10 inch rail with 11.5" barrel. I got the Iron Airsoft one at Shooter Gear. They come with the QD sling KEYMOD mount (which the hole is too small for my DYTAC or G&P QD for some reason; but it looks like it's a non-rotating mount if it fits) and a KEYMOD RIS panel. Both extra bits have lasered KAC markings whereas the rail doesn't have markings. Oh and it comes with barrel shims. The IA one has the integrated barrel nut; whereas the DYTAC one uses the URXII way of mounting the RIS. DYTAC one is powdercoated IIRC, and the IA one is anodized.

Apologies for the crappy phone pics. Dem KAC is sexy All I'm waiting for is the Primary Arms T1 to complete the gnu. MAYBE a light somewhere as well and a Tan DBAL; but don't have the funds yet unfortunately.

It's probably from that fire sale that was mentioned in the UN Raid thread There were TONS of receivers on sale back then from HKD 300 (Typical Colt receivers, NAVY SEAL markings, etc. Maybe even LaRue ones too; didn't notice) to HKD 399 (VLTOR MUR).

Well what I posted above was just trying to explain why you see the wear marks. I hope it didn't come across as trying to justify the wear and tear on a new gun (I'm not and if you didn't imply it, whatever, I'm posting this anyway XD). The wear on the receiver is only an issue because they didn't make the fitting on the polymer receiver tight enough to securely hold onto the bolt catch. You'll see that most of the DIY fixes (if not all) are basically fixing the sloppy dimensions on WE's parts. The sound you hear is mostly due to the hammer being released and catching on the disconnecto

The wear on the receiver and bolt are normal and will not affect the gun whatsoever. Your trigger set will probably be the first thing to fail if anything. The receiver wear is due to the bolt catch being a loose fit on the lower. Every time the bolt catch engages it gets pushed up against the upper and given that it also wiggles a bit due to the force exerted by the bolt when it slams against the catch, it's going to wear away a bit of the finishing. The bolt wear happens because if you look at the bolt catch, it's made up of sharp angles. The wear you see is due to the catch being

I asked the staff today about it and their reply was that the guy actually came in at 8pm. If that was the case and they still helped him with his order I'd say that's a plus in customer service, regardless of the speed of the transaction. Whether the timing issue was correct for either side; taking the side that favours the customer, his timing was still *suitcase*.

The door was locked because they are probably preparing to leave. On normal working hours the door is unlocked. You had 15 minutes left and I'm sure if you had insisted on buying something and being inconvenient going to WGC on another day; rather than enjoying the air condition at WGC and wasting their time they would've done business with you. I guess you never specified that either. Oh and you expect the chick working at WGC as a saleswoman to know the thousands of products that WGC sell? Bitching about this online just shows that you're the kind of despicable person th

Can't believe you factored in the article(s) you only read a portion of into your total above

He's got a Mini4 that he can run on that thing actually

No.

LOL I can't read Japanese Used Google translate when I skimmed it

Well I'm afraid I'm going way off topic if I keep replying (Noveske where's your damn field report, you and IBMedic are the only ones that seem to have it right now! XD At least on Arnies ) but for the last part of your reply I was talking about the silver cylinders No comment on the nozzles since I've never owned or fired an ARES gun Nono I meant the MP7 sights folded down to pistol height As for PMC loadouts, sure ; but it's not my cup of tea only because the PDR's never actually been produced as a real steel firearm and I like my guns to reflect that Which is why as much

You raised some points that I've never thought about, so I guess I was wrong in my assumptions I thought about shoving some H&K diopters if I had bought the PDR, but I would think there might be cheekweld issues having the sights sit slightly lower than your typical AR sights. The pistol sights would have the same issues I believe.

Actually; my example was never about being for tank crews (even though I know the PDR was also marketed for those roles) primarily because I have no knowledge of how tank crews operate. My idea of having the PDR was always something of shooting out of a small van or pickup truck in the sitting position. I wrote something about the effective range of the mk18 in my previous post before I deleted it due to being irrelevant; but a quick look on wiki says that the mk18 has an effective range out to 300 meters. I would assume the same effective range provided the barrel length, twist and ammu

It's meant to replace the role of a pistol in a SHTF situation and when needed can have the ability of a SBR. Typical pistol engagement ranges from what I remember reading was around 50 yards, which is 45.72 meters. Are you telling me you can't hit something in the torso at 46 meters without aiming devices? Magpul reps say that it has the capability of reaching out to 100 yards if needed, which is 91.44 meters. I'm sure I can also deliver suppressive fire in the general direction of someone shooting at me at that range too without the use of any aiming devices. That, and the PDR b