Wingmann

That and body thread imperials then

Isn't she a beauty?

If you can put a Galil bolt handle there you would be golden.

You can also try to bend outwards a bit the catch window on the mag. I used a big flat screwdriver and just pulled them out a bit so the top sticks out over the plastic. It heps keeping the MAGs up in the well and provides a more solid graps for the catch. Some macro goodness because a picture is worth a thousand words And my main body of mags as of now

Yes, please

Here is a MAG with the foam sticker This is how the magazine should face the nozzle above and align with the mag well front

I'll try to post some pictures tomorrow Wednesday.

I bought two M-version ones and found 6 used PMAGs with ranger plates, so I guess I'm set in that respect Still keeping 3 MAGs to see if I can solve the problem and then pass on the info.

Check that your hop-up chamber has got the spring. Mine and some other units didn't have it and it helps keeping the chamber against the gearbox. That paired with the loose MAG magazines "can" lead to poor air sealing. This is a chamber with the top spring installed I'll take some pics of my MAGs later this week to show you what I added to them so they are flush with the front of the magwell.

The G&P polyacetal piston is also said to be good... In any case I'd wait until it breaks There's always time to get a new one.

The MOSFET shouldn't be a problem. Can't tell about the piston. The TBB will rise your FPS, other than that they are harmless (except if you are in front of the gun )

I have the chance to get some unused gen-1 PMAGs with ranger plates at a good price. Is there any major reason I should not jump on this and get M-ver ones (I already have two Ms)?

I was re-reading the thread just now and I noticed that some problems could be solved by adjusting the motor height. 1.- Locking in semi-auto. A correct adjustment in the motor will help with this issue -issue that I personally have suffered just one time-. 2.- Gears/Tappet/Nozzle not cycling correctly, thus sending some BBs without force, specially in semi auto fire. A wrong diagnostic led me to ditch a couple of MAG mags -which were rattling too much in the well anyway- and thinking I had a problem with the hop nub. It was all the motor not spinning the gears properly and therefore maki

Don't worry http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/bb-battery/batteries/lithium-batteries/gandp-ep-power-7-4v-1200mah-20c-lithium-battery-t-plug.html http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/bb-battery/batteries/lithium-batteries/hot-power-7-4v-1100mah-12c-lithium-battery.html http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/bb-battery/batteries/lithium-batteries/hot-power-7-4v-1700mah-15c-lithium-battery-for-ak-series.html They all fit

Battery news: I just received a new AK-type LiPo battery, 7.4v, 1700mAh 15C, 145mm long, 18mm in diameter. It fits perfectly inside the stock tube in all but position 0 (zero). At minimum extension the connection cables -not the battery- portrude outside the stock. In any other position there's space enough to fold them back inside I for one welcome my new LiPo battery (Be careful when converting batteries to Dean connectors. Don't short 'em!)

I have the Element white one in, but it'll take me some time to reach 10,000 to see if there's any difference. Element H nub (white), 0.25BBs, default barrel, Guarder SP90 (which probably got the gun down to 290 or so, to be compensated later with a TBB and Guarder silicone bucking).

That's an impressive collection there Does anyone know if all G&P lower receivers have the same dimensions in the magwell? I know PMAGs work nicely in Magpul lowers (makes sense, right?) but I have a VLTOR lower and my current MAG 190-rounders lack thickness and width. G&P standard mags work nice, as it should be. I wouldn't like to purchase 5 of these and have 10 non-working mags Thanks!

They are certainly too loose to be used in my G&P Sentry. They need almost 2mm of fill on the back side part that goes inside the mag well in order to feed properly.

Mine was quite well inside the gearbox, a tad on the "too much grease" side, but ok. It was sprayed with gun oil pretty much all over though. I had to clean the externals throughly. I'd say you won't need to worry about the inner parts until much later on. If you find some parts hard to move, like the sights, just give them use. Everything will settle down with a bit of time.

I mostly play in a site that restricts auto to short bursts. Having a replica that shoots 5 BBs in a really short burst is something nice to have there

Believe me, you won't. You'll flip out when you shoot it in auto with a 7.4 LiPo (clean it throughly first, specially the barrel!)

The explanation about the hop and nozzle being a tad apart makes sense, although once upper and lower are mounted there seems to be no play between the hop and the front of the gearbox. I guess any minimal play is enough to affect shooting that badly. I don't grasp the magazines anyway, I have a foregrip for that Dimensions of the chute are correct, but the metal case itself is way off. What I did was take the upper off and insert the original magazine to see how the chute correlated with the nozzle, then compared with the MAG ones. MAGs were definitely not sitting properly and that c

Well, definitely the MAG metal 190-rounders DON'T feed my Sentry properly. I got five of them and already sold two to a gaming buddy. I'm saving three just in case there's some mode I can try with them. Problem: I insert the magazine, fire in semi, BB falls out of the barrel at 15m or so. Keep shooting, same deal. Press the mag UP, nothing changes. Take mag off, insert again, AUTO fire, it shoots straight. Change to semi, it might shoot straight or not. Press the mag up and forward (to be sure the feeding hole is well into the hop), same deal, BBs fall out of the gun instead of being sho

Magpul over Vltor is just a cosmetic decision. If for any reason you prefer Magpul, then get it. Practicality wise they are identical. I got the Vltor one. From what I've seen the 10.5" will cover both your needs aplenty. In its stock form my 10.5" shot at 375FPS and had the range of any other long weapon out there, and more than some. Being the shortest, it's without a doubt the best for CQB. Weight is also something you should consider. The 10.5" is very easy to carry around and face quickly when needed.

There are no "needed" upgrades. It shoots nice as stock. I had to put a Guarder SP90 spring to comply with site rules here and as it was opened I put an Element H nub in it, but for a start you need nothing. I switched to 0.25s for good though.