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Redshirt 1-7

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Posts posted by Redshirt 1-7

  1. It's one of CYMA's newer models, basically a VFC copy like a DBoys. The new CYMA gearboxes are pretty good right out of the box, hopup and barrel isn't bad either. Real handguards should fit, might need a tiny bit of fitting. Not a whole lot of real parts to put on it though, maybe front and rear sight blocks? The DBoy's full steel models are starting to come back in supply again, so you might want to look at those instead, all steel already, and the DBoys gearboxes, while not as nice as CYMA, aren't bad.

     

    I see, sounds good. Do you think one of the newer CYMAs could handle an 11.1v lipo (I use mostly semi-only fire so not much auto shredding)? That's one of my main concerns right now, as I'm not keen on getting another battery and the ones they come with I never use.

  2. vfc_m4_04-26-12_2.jpg

    vfc_m4_04-26-12_1.jpg

     

    VFC M4A1 E-Series

     

    Gearbox:

     

    Retuned and rear-wired gearbox by a good friend of mine, not sure of the ROF but it's something leaning closer to 20 RPS on an 11.1v lipo. Replaced spring to shoot at ~350 FPS to be legal for MOUT here. All else is stock and it runs like a well-oiled toaster with instantaneous trigger response.

     

    Hop:

     

    Polar Star Concave Spacer, Systema Energy bucking, Madbull Black Python 6.03 tightbore in 363mm length. On .28s and in ideal conditions it's pushing something like 200 feet, or possibly slightly more range. It might be more than that, as I have taken some people by surprise with how far I can reach.

     

    Externals:

     

    Generic cranestock

    Hurricane EoTech

    Dboys URX

    Magpul PTS AFG-2

    Magpul XD Rail Covers, FDE

    APS Catapult Flip-Up sight (backup)

     

    Very proud of this, it's my only AR worth using and all the frustrating work that's gone into it has been worth it.

  3. A well-detailed review. Tried skirmishing it?

     

    Though to be honest, if someone showed up with one of those and used it as a transition weapon inside MEDs, I would probably floor them for being so irresponsible.

  4. Why not use a lipo?

     

    A small issue of $$$ combined with being paranoid about flaming/exploding batteries as well as not having a good place to store one. I also didn't realize how much I needed one until recently.

     

    Um... is your front sight a rear sight?

     

    Yup.

     

    It works quite well actually, they line up almost perfectly. It looks a bit whack but it stands out at least...

  5. I apologize if my lack of gas block or internal wires offends the airsoft gods, I've tried to hide them for this (very bad) photo, now with 100% more front sight:

     

    M4_build_9001.jpg

     

    This is hopefully what my gun should look like (sans the badly hidden wires) if I can get my friend to tuck the wires in and set me up for a buffer tube lipo.

  6. I kinda like that red dot.... what is it? :P

    (maybe place it at the back of the gun?)

     

    It's a BSA red dot of some kind, barely worth the materials used to make it. It's actually more for looks in this photo, skirmishing it just adds pointless heft when even moderate lighting can make it difficult to see the dot.

     

    A real one might not, but the gun that he's posted there can function just fine. Unless I'm mistaken, this isn't a RS forum.

     

    In airsoft, it's an entirely aesthetic part a large amount of the time. If you got rid of non-essential components such as the ones related to the gas system, you'd actually be creating a more skirmish practical rifle by shaving weight off.

     

    Basically this. Nevermind figuring out how to fit it with my wonderful track record of technical work... :unsure:

  7. Micro red dot it is.

     

    The grip is the absolute least comfortable part, especially without gloves, followed closely by the stock - for now the VFG "works" though I end up holding the thing like it's an AFG anyway.

     

    Like I said, I'm thinking of getting a Magpul MOE/CTR/whatever stock and maybe some rail covers. Think I should get the furniture in black or OD? Worried that OD might clash with my tan vest and hat/helmet...

     

    EDIT: What about foliage? Thinking it would look good with my ABU uniform.

  8. I'd put your wires inside the rail unit and replace the fugly RDS with a micro and some sights dude.

     

    Unfortunately, the way my friend temporarily fixed the wiring it's kind of permanently stuck outside the gun until it can be rear-wired (I don't have a way to separate the wires so it can go inside the barrel/delta ring assembly). Also, the URX turned out to be too tight to get wires in there anyhow, so I'm pretty much out of luck for now.

     

    I have a catapult sight but it looks kind of bad with the RDS.

  9. The Flyye 6094 is more accurate if you want a more accurate version of LBT's later 6094's, however, it is not a replica of the current design. It is a replica of the previous design, this is easily shown by the metal push buttons on the cummerbund flap on Flyye's. Older LBT6094's had this feature but has since gotten rid of that.

     

    Flyye also uses Velcro over the chest whilst still allowing the PALS to be used whereas the Pantac only offers PALS with no Velcro. From the looks of the advertisement pictures I have seen on various websites, only Flyye sells theirs with shoulder pads included. Either way that you go, you will get a high quality piece of kit!

     

    Thanks for the info. Probably still going to get the Pantac though, I prefer stuff I can get in the US commonly (Flyye is foreign right? I've never seen any of their kit available in the US).

     

    My pantac came with shoulder pads... another option is the TMC 6094, quite similar to Flyyes and much cheaper, not so high quality though, but some of the TMC products are indeed more than good enough for skirmishing

     

    Again, thank you for the info. How much do TMC rigs run, and is their 6094 one of the "good enough" products?

     

    Last question (I'll try to put some content up next time so I'm not just spamming the thread with nooby questions). Where can I find a good quality MAP replica in khaki?

  10. I'd repaint the entire thing with Krylon or Rust-Oleum khaki. The ACM "tan" tends to be too bright, in my experience.

     

    I've got Rustoleum camo, khaki and brown.

     

    Would a flat repaint job do the trick? I sprayed the khaki onto my VFC's LE stock, which used to be jet black, and it's still friggin' bright.

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