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bobbyc222

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About bobbyc222

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  • Airsofter since
    2003
  • Country
    United Kingdom

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    Male
  1. bobbyc222

    DMRs

    I am aware C is not a discharge unit defacto, however it is the largest contributing indicator towards it mAh aside. The "easy" and broad calculation for max discharge is the C rating multiplied by the capacity and adjusted to a convenient unit (amps rather than milli amps), naturally it isn't exact but it gives a good broad indicator. All I was attempting to say was that a higher C rating with a comparatively similar capacity will increase the max discharge the battery can handle - which feel free to correct me if I am mistaken, is the case. Increasingly high torque motors require a larger current to get them to tick over (they wouldn't be higher torque otherwise) SRCs are a good example of this. The only way to get such motors to run at "normal" cyclic rates is to induce either a proptionally higher potential difference or a higher discharge rate across the terminals, which defacto means a bigger (more powerful) battery - in this instance the voltage and capacity being the same, means a higher C value is required. It has little to do with the setup of the gearbox in these cases, and is the only solution bar swapping over the motor for something with less torque.
  2. bobbyc222

    DMRs

    As the gun is new I'm guessing then that it has a power hungry high torque in there which is the cause of the "problem" (there have been cases of motor failure off the bat but the odds of that are slim to none so I would forget about it), the 25C is powerful enough to tick it over, the 15C isn't. Checking the shimming etc might get it to work with the 15C, but as above, I would be prepared to get another 25C (cheaper than a new motor). Might be worthwhile borrowing another motor from a spare gun (assuming you have a spare with the same motor length and the motor is man enough) that ticks over with the 15C ok, then stick it in the "problem" gun and vice versa for verification. If the "borrowed" motor ticks over ok in the DMR box - then its a hungry hungry high torque, if the borrowed motor has difficulties as well however, then the problem obviously resides in the gear box setup. (only suggest this because it is probably quicker to swap motors over rather than take the box apart and reset it up) - Just for clarification with the mAh - that isn't directly the cause here, its the C rating (C rating dictates more or less, peak discharge - bigger C rating, the higher the maximum discharge) that's the problem, the mAh is basically the storage capacity of the battery - the larger the mAh the longer it will last. (Actually it's a touch more complicated than that, mAh does affect the max discharge rate, but with only a 400mAh variance between the batteries it's inconsequential, next to the relatively huge difference in C rating)
  3. bobbyc222

    DMRs

    I'm guessing the setup has a higher peak drain which the 15C is struggling with, whilst the 25C can handle a higher peak current draw which is sufficient to get it ticking over nicely. Have you used the 15C since it came back from the shops and had it working fine and this is the first problem? Or is it the first time you've whacked the 15C in there since it came back to you? It's possible if the 15C was working OK and has just started being a pain that it didn't go through a complete charge cycle for whatever reason - try charging/ balancing it again. Personally I'm betting on the gearbox needing more power than the 15C can comfortably discharge since whatever happened to it in the shop. - If this is the case, it could be a few things: - the AOE of the motor is too tight, putting extra strain on the turnover, - the gears are shimmed too tightly and need more power to turn over, - if there is a stronger spring in there that will need more power to be cycled (I don't have any LiPos with less than a 25C rating so can't say what effects this may have - I can pull M120s comfortably with a high speed motor and a 25C 7.4. - The spring change will most likely be in combination with one of the other factors than the cause alone), - if it's a new motor it may be a higher torque rating than your last one and need more power to turn over (I've seen this before - I have a high torque which needs ~35C 7.4 to turn over comfortably (won't perform at all well with a 25C 7.4) or 15C+ 11.1, whilst a high speed motor in the same setup turns over nicely on a 7.4 25C) **- Dependent on how old the motor is, it may have worn/ coils may be degrading requiring more power to turn over the same ** If I had to guess, I would say that options 1,2 and 4 are the most likely causes, but realistically it could be several of them together (or something else entirely that I haven't thought of). If you could elaborate on what it had done/ what is different between when it went in and presumably worked fine on the 15C and now when it doesn't it may help narrow down the cause. **Another idea I had
  4. bobbyc222

    H&K Picture Thread

    G30M4C from the G36 thread... thought I'd put it here so that I had a good excuse to post this: Because ridiculously big silencer is ridiculously big...
  5. bobbyc222

    H&K Picture Thread

    Definitely looks better with the proper handguard, and the trades are a nice finishing touch (almost wished I had gotten around to getting the kit ) HJA1512. Internally mines a pretty bog basic AEG - there are no fancy special DMR limits at my local, so there was no point semi-auto locking it.. I've gone round systematically replacing the swiss cheese SRC curiously refer to as "parts" - customed TM G36 hopup installed (pic below of the bodge, not pretty but it works) with TM bucking and H nub - the metal hop that came with it wasn't even any good as a paperweight, and because SRC had to be special and try out their own hop design you have to do some fiddling to get anything else in there. In the end I settled with a bit of plastic funnel filled with wood filler and drilled for the feeding tube replacement thingy. I have toyed with sticking it to the M8 lower receiver but I can't get it to feed from there, whereas it feeds fine stuck to the hop unit so there it has stayed. Otherwise it currently has a lonex steel 6.03 510mm barrel (don't laugh) - I actually prefer it to the systema 6.04 510mm I had in there previously (I swapped in the lonex just to see if they were worth looking at and was pleasantly surprised after a bit of polishing), fiddled systema silent piston head (for improve longevity of gearbox more than anything), SHS air nozzle and cylinder head (again, heard good things about SHS so thought I would whack em in and see), King Arms fire select plate (SRCs just bent rather than changed modes), ICS turbo 3000 motor and a fresh systema M100 (shooting in the 340s at the moment which is higher than I would like, hopefully will drop towards the 320s after it has bedded in). The tappet plate is currently being a head ache and causing feeding woes as it just seems to ride up over the sector clip (<- forgot to mention I put one of those in because the 3000 was just a tad too fast, got a pot metal sector clip for durability and ease to tailor to the sector gear) rather than pull back the nozzle - which is free to travel on the cylinder head. Have a simple homebrew AB mosfet in there for all the wonderful reasons listed in the MOSFET Thread, mostly the better trigger response, and the use of 11V lipos (again for trigger response) - usually use 7.4s these days though because I have more knocking around/ haven't fetted all my rifs yet and want easy battery swap for the lot. I also have some 15-20mm plastic pipe cut and wedged between the blocks where the tail joins the body, and where the main hand guard (see below) locking pin goes (I have replaced the pin with 5mm nut and bolt for better locking), I did this to stop the polymer caving at these points when the hex (tail) and bolt (hand guard) are tightened - it lets you reduce the movement (ergo noise) without worrying about snapping/ going through the polymer, it isn't exactly the strongest stuff in the world The shell, gears, bushings, cylinder and spring guide look decent enough, but I have almost no faith in the piston and will replace that as and when. ** Little bit of advice for you - when you are done and about to put the rifle back together, get some white lithium grease and slop a bit along all the joining edges of the bodywork with a cotton but or something and let it dry before reassembly. This will kill most of the creaking you tend to get from the polymer where it moves slightly against the next piece (that's the whitish goop you can see in the above - you can see it when you have the rifle apart but doesn't show when it's all together). *** Sorry for picture quality, they are just a few I have knocked off in this evenings gloom...
  6. bobbyc222

    H&K Picture Thread

    All this talk of M8s reminded me: In the works XM8-R DMAR Started life as an SRC gen 3 in OD but the finish was shockingly poor so that had to go... Then decided to try and fiddle a spiral 2.5ish design based on the marksman variant, but utilise a railed upper (spiral 3) rather than the 4x ISM-V (spiral 2), without having the ugly as sin G36 RIS hand guard stapled on the end. *** Sorry for the picture, it was taken a few months back on that 1 sunny day we had, so looks a tad shiny. Since then I have put the flash hider on the right way, slid the bayonet lug forward so it can actually be used and scooted the scope forwards an inch or so for better eye relief...
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