Jibbity

I have placed 4 orders with them. They are to be trusted. Quick to reply, quick to ship, well above average in the customer service department.

On the subject of the AUG High Cycle, does anyone know if the upper is made of the same crappy pot metal as the older models? Also, is it still the same 3 piece outer barrel set up, just shorter?

If I could CNC them, this would be a possibility. I had to manualy mill mine and it is just not cost effective for me to produce them.

I machined it out of a PVC block. The one that comes with the TM HC AUG is pretty close, but I have no idea how you would source one.

The barrel group should rotate and slide out the front just like the other AUGs and is therefore easily replaced. The HC would likely be the easier starting point.

No, It isn't compatible with standard buckings, the lips will protrude far enough to stop BBs from feeding. I suppose that means that the barrel fits deeper than normal. I had to trim down the lips of the bucking I used so that it would feed.

The point is, the standard controls may work stock, but it is much nicer all micro switched up. But, $100 was hard for me to swallow for the Chimera, I know it is not for everyone. If it weren't for the vast improvements it allows for the AUG, then I probably wouldn't have bothered for the UAR. Fortunately, with an extra trigger board (or micro switch) I can use the Chimera in both. I also feel the need to try to optimize everything, it is a sickness... How are you thinking to wire a switch directly into the gearbox? You'd have to come up with some way to get the semi cutoff to work, or

I'm going to take this over to that thread, then. If there are any mods that feel up to moving the previous posts in the discussion that way, have at it.

The issues are really more around finding space for the Chimera and wire routing. I have figured it out since, and will post photos of the finished install when I get there. And well, the trigger may not be bad, but it is waaaayyyy better when you can tune the pull to exactly what you like. The selector, on the other hand is pretty terrible, and I figured while I am putting in a switch for the one, I will do the other as well. I respect the design decision to try to keep everything to standard AK parts (wish they had applied that to the hopup regarding the non standard bucking), but in the

Chimera'd! No more looonnng trigger pull and I can ditch the linkage and seal up the magwell. No more BBs rolling around in the body and jamming the trigger linkage. The trigger though, wow, soooo much better. Micro switch for the trigger. The silver screw sets the travel for the trigger. Short pull. Switch for fire selection. When engaged it will activate the 2nd fire mode (Full auto by default). Selector bar modified with a notch to index in the middle position. You can ignore the material removed from the backside. If the white dots are on the left, all you need

If anyone is interested, Cyma 190rd m4 midcaps fit and feed great in the UAR. They are wide enough that they don't require any magwell shimming and it looks like the spring housing on top of the mag is short enough to fit without modifying the gun. I can't confirm the last, as I have already cut mine. These I have tried, but will not feed without adding material inside the magwell: KWA 120rd polymer Core 140rd MAG 130rd Green Label 75rd Emags

I agree that it is technically not needed, but I can see the difference in flex from one side to the other with only one tab working.

Uggh. I just got mine a couple of days ago. I was sizing it up for battery space and realized that one of the body tabs for the upper (where the middle body pin passes through) is broken. Apparently it is not just a problem with the PDR...

This guy seems to have successfully has modded his magwell, and even has a picture: http://www.booliganairsoft.com/2013/03/aps-uar-urban-assault-rifle-aeg.html

Thanks, well, we shall see how durable it is. It shouldn't be under too much stress. It really just sort of fell together, every time I needed a part, I had just the right thing in the bin. Unfortunately, it is out of my ability to make these in any sort of numbers. Thanks. Ask and ye shall receive, well all but the very tip anyway: Here you can see where the rails meet. The stock top rail was moved back to free up one of the screw holes for the attachment of the new rail. This is what the rail started out as. Ahh, the joys of being a pack rat. I knew I'd eventually find a

DE M1014 + Full Stock + Springer M14 RIS + Dremmel:

I think I am done working on this one:

I have made similar adjustments in the past, but this one is just ludicrous. Not in any way fixable. Well, I suppose I could cut it in half right down the middle and attach it too something wider.

Turns out that is $10.80 down the toilet. I took a look at it last night and the bottom section of rail is like 2mm narrower than it should be. No accessories will fit.

RSOV has them listed Out of Stock. Might be worth checking to see if they will be getting more. I can certainly be talked out of the one or two that I have. PM me if you want to work something out. *edit* Also, WGCshop has them in stock.

I haven't got around to using it yet. I have all of the parts, I just have to find the time to do a bit of machining. This is what I will be making with it: Left to right, top to bottom; TM highcap, BE highcap, MAG midcap, JG OD highcap, Kingarms midcap. The BE (I am pretty certain that is what it is) is the clearest, but it doesn't fit or feed well in my JG AUGs.

Unfortunately, the crappy BE ones are the clearest that I have seen. Some of the JGs highcaps that I have seen lately are opaque.

If you are interested, I moved the conversation over to Project Suggestions to involve more people than just the AUG nerds. http://www.arniesairsoft.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/205611-diy-v3-quick-change-gearbox/ Includes a picture of the gearbox modification.

I had to cut the hole in the back myself.

It's the JG V3 that came in the AUG.. If you look at the spring guide, that is pretty much the exact shape of the hole I cut in the back of the gearbox. I shortened, the arms of the spring guide so I could push it in and rotate it into place.