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kenxin

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Posts posted by kenxin

  1. I had exactly the same problem after a very short time. I had a large airbubble inside the metal part. It was replaced with an identical TM part, but I have doubts if I won't get the same problem in the long run. It's obviously one of the week parts.

    My slide catch has survived over 2 years with EXTENSIVE use  with metal slides and upgraded recoil springs.

     

    The truth is one (or a few) runs of marui PX4s had an air bubble in there that caused the part to fail.

  2. Thanks Squad 701 for the reply, the SD outer barrel fits and functions perfect so ill keep that in place, but I have another 2 kimber warriors to build in the next week and only have 1 SD barrel left, so I have to find away for the Nova barrel to function, on closer inspection I noticed that the only visible differance in construction between the two (besides the barrel markings) is that the nova barrel has a narrower inner section were as the SD barrel has an openish inner section allowing more freedom to the inner barrel. So I think the problem is the inside of the outer barrel and not the lugs (which dont show signs of jaming). Im going to try filing out the inside with a cilinder file and see if that makes a differance. :busted_blue:

    That is VERY unlikely.  The lugs are responsable 99% of the time. If you release the slide slowly  and it stops about .5 or 1 mm short of battery, it's the lugs for sure.

  3. Has anyone tried to run a metal slide with duster gas and just the stock recoil rod (actually, just stock everything else)? In the US, it gets about 80-90 degrees F and i feel like the propane or the green gas will eventually crack the frame screw on the bottom. I shot a few rounds with duster and metal slide; it seems to finish and lock back with every round. I assume playing out in the heat the duster can only get better. Thoughts? 

    In japan this is fairly normal for people with metal kits for their GBB pistols since sourcing green is harder over there. They do change the recoil springs thou.

  4. I'll rephrase this for you Kenxin, I should have wrote some BBUs in custom installations don't function smoothly if over-tightened,

    sometimes the smallest loosening of the hex-screw is enough to correct this, trust me I know I've built at least 40 1911s,

    I was not trying to say leave it loose so its going to fall off !

    Can we have your approval now :rolleyes: 

    You can have it, the new NOVA design cannot. Also, I think you misunderstood me, I was referring to the design, not to your comment.

  5. Regardless of loosening the hex-screw you have to leave it fixed in place, otherwise it'll just unscrew itself. I really cannot approve of this.

     

    Also, as far as I know, the detonator kits also have this and don't require any modification.

  6. Yes, considering what was being charged back in the day for a Prime 'Series 70' kit for WA with blued finish, another trip to the bank-manager was needed.

    The new Nova Series 70 for TM is very good value, I was really surprised at the quality of the finish for the price.

    No major problems building the kit, just one of the prongs at the rear of the BBU need to be cut-off and filed, as the space is needed for a small bar that holds the fake firing-pin in,

    this in turn is held in place by the extractor which is tightened in with a tiny hollow hex-screw.

    I have no clue as to why they did it like that. Hurricane has a separate extractor and the design doesn't need any adjustments to the BBU....

  7. Correct,no issues with the 3px4 and well past 5k rounds through that upper and the marui lower. The lower isn't damaged in the slightest and it took the trigger that many rounds to break.

    It's fairly safe to assume the 3xp4 and the WE px4 are the same, thou I do not know the specifics of that relationship (or if that's still the case).

  8. Took my SD kitted px4 out for a bit today...fired about 200 shots with 1 jam.

     

    I thought it odd that a marui jammed, so back home I opened it up and remembered that I hadn't lubed the thing for about 6 months. All that was left of the lube was the grey gunk.

     

    So, I remove the stuff and try to fire it absolutely and completely dry (I don't have any lube left ATM). To my surprise, it refused to cycle properly, jamming every two shots (the cause was the rotating barrel no less).

     

    Now, you should never fire a GBB without lube, but I didn't remember the same kind of trouble with either the marui default or the 3px4 upper, so I decided to try the same with the 3px4. I opened it up, removed whatever lube was left since I last used it and proceded to shoot it dry.

     

    Not a single jam. The cycling is a bit rough but it cycles flawlessly.

     

     

    Overall, I can't really recommend the shooters design slide set. It's nice to look at but the 3px4 upper is a lot more functional.

    • Like 1
  9. well just filing the surfaces is a bandaid, will work until the pot metal wears out again in another few hundred shots,,,, my solution will last forever...

    Or until the pot metal gives in to the steel insert and just snaps in half :P

     

    Kidding (mostly), it just sounded a bit drastic and too much hassle for a WE (IMO).

  10. I drilled out the contact surfaces on both the hammer and the sear, and put steel pins in their place

    That sounds rather drastic.

     

    Glad you got yours working NonEx, too bad it took so much work.

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