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The Chef

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Everything posted by The Chef

  1. Redline.... not strictly true mate... I adjusted my nozzle in the same way. Got her down from 500+fps to 350. Works fine. Nicely adjustable FPS nozzle, all for about 2 minutes work with a die to increase the thread depth on the rod.
  2. I think it acts like the bearing spring guide in an AEG or the VSR. The buffer sits where it is, but allows the spring to rotate on the bearing. I think its a bit of overkill in this respect, but I can see why its used in an AEG. The constant compression/decompression of the spring might cause some rotational movement in the spring, which can now move freely rather than stressing the spring.
  3. CoCo, yeah, thats excellent. It's not instantly obvious from the profile view, but the 3D view shows it perfectly. That's probably a better solution than using the flexible AEG nub. That is some excellent work. Thinking about the barrel location (I always look for the easy solution), rather than having to machine the barrel shroud to accept the AEG clip, could you not just drill a section out of the barrel so it can take the existing small roll pin? Or something like 3 grub screws placed around the barrel to locate it? Just a thought. But that is indeed some truly f
  4. Pretty sweet there CoCo. Agreed on the flexible nub. Easy to sort though. Just alter the schematic to have a concave semi circular aperture in the actuator arm. Either that, or a solid H nub, like the VSR. My one concern, where is the adjustment screw? I don't think there is enough meat above the arm itself to contain an adjustment screw, or is the same bevelled nut doing the job as it does in the original? I'm not sure that the bevelled nut will operate the arm what with it being such an acute angle. But I like the idea.... very sound. My own personal view would be to have
  5. So I think the logical conclusion is that the BB is getting a bit of both, Stuck in 117 and held up by the hop nub. Dan, Otto. I think you can both feel vindicated by that. Now all I need to know is this. Do the relative points on a VSR hop rubber match up to the WE? If so. I'm going to mill out a nozzle/hop housing to take one. I think I'm going to peruse those CAD drawings for the correct dimensions and check them against an old barrel I've got kicking about! Another job for tomorrow. ***edit*** oh... Marky, I think the extra Ball Bearing and
  6. Well I have to say that people's perseverance with this is ASTOUNDING. Truly amazing chaps. Now I know this post is a bruiser, but please take the time to read it carefully. COCO. that CAD work is sublime. You should be very proud of yourself. Now, at a risk of causing offence. Otto/Dan... Please don't fall into the trap of thinking that your own viewpoint is essentially the correct one. As far as I can see, they are BOTH extremely valid, so don't try to shout the other down to promote your own. This isn't a wee'ing contest. Its problem to solve. Otto hit the nail on the head wi
  7. Now I know this may not be entirely relevant but this whole 117 debate made me think of my Tanaka experiences. When installing the BGS hop system we basically had the same problem. The BB getting stuck in the mouth of the rubber (@ effectively what is 117) and when it fired this was imparting unusual spin which varied depending on which part of the rubber was 'sticking' at the time prior to the BB hitting the hop which added its own spin. This was causing erratic BB flight. Sometimes it jammed in there completely. The cure was a long nozzle which placed the BB directly past this
  8. Hmmm, I'm using a G&P ACOG with a cheapo chinese red-dot doctor butchered to the top and its holding up pretty nicely.
  9. I can't say much more than everyone else about the reliability of my rifle really. Its an AFC version 1 and nothing has 'broken' on it yet, and thats seen 3-4 weeks of skirmishing. Yes the hop up is infuriating, and the hold open function seems to not want to work despite my best efforts, but all in all, nothing has fallen off or stopped it working. Is it as accurate as an AEG, in a word, no. If you're so worried about it, then steer well clear. This is a rifle you have to want knowing there will be some issues. Its as simple as that. But back to more important
  10. can you give a few dimensions of that rubber bit? thickness, material, shape, length, width etc? I'm probably going to strip mine out this morning.
  11. Aye, I was going to make a stepped bush, so the locking nut could sit inside it, so the diameter would be wider. Thus providing better lateral stability. But yeah, keep the length the same. Now to find some suitable material.
  12. Well, mission accomplished for me..... I've managed to mod my Gen1 nozzle a little. It was firing at a healthy 500fps on Propane, which is a tad hot.... So I took the brass nozzle off, ran a 3mm Die down the end of the Steel Rod to lengthen the threads a little and screwed the brass nozzle back on. Hey presto, she's now firing at around 350fps. And what's better, the whole set-up is adjustable all the way between that range! All I have to do is twist the nozzle a few turns. I've also added a small O ring to the thin part of the nozzle. No idea what effect this has, but
  13. I have to say I'm just letting the dust settle over this now. I'd love the bits to come out, but I am just a bit fed up of chasing them, so I'm going to just wait and see. I'm going to try and mod my piston so I can get it down to a reasonable FPS, I'm going to alter my BB weight to try and get the hop somewhere near straight and then its going to be straight in for CQB. I'll look at upgrading it when everyone has actually got things in stock and not just talking about 'this stuff's great but I can't tell you!' or 'its coming in March.. oh no... April... make that May!' Pro
  14. NewComer I have to disagree. I've got CO2 mags for my TM Hi-Capa (incidentally they are WE magazines) and they are pretty much perfect. Bearing in mind its about 6 degrees celcius here, when using a magazine with propane, if I rapid fire the pistol, I'll get major cool-down and possibly even a gas out by the end of the magazine. I can do this without fear or incident when using a 12g CO2 Bulb magazine.
  15. I'm with Carsten on this one ^^^^. Er.... What? So are we saying the Steel Nozzle should not be used for CO2? Is this Gen 2 innards going to be retro-fitable to our exisiting models? I'm holding on for various bits to come out, but then we hear that certain parts that are already released are going to be obsolete. I'm lucky that I've held off buying, but I'm sure those guys who have already got the steel nozzle sets on the understanding that they will be CO2 compatible will be a mite pizzled. But I'm still holding on for CO2 mags, (new innards now) and a new ba
  16. WETTI... if its anything like the CO2 mags for the Hi-Capa then you'll be fine. Those things are just full of WIN!! pity the 39 rounders have been discontinued though.
  17. Eh?? Marky... those I posted are do not contain lube. I know I've been through hundreds of the buggers. The site states that you should have to use a silicon lube separately. (not that I do.... much). here's the link for the caplets. http://www.tyreinflators.co.uk/co2-cartrid...-/prod_262.html £19.03 for 50, and about a fiver for postage. Edited to add the link.
  18. Chris... try www.tyreinflators.co.uk look for the 12g unthreaded CO2 Caplets. I think you can get a box of 50 for £25 posted. they're pretty good, delivered next day for me.
  19. hmmm, brushes up on his knowledge of specific metal hardnesses.... I think Aluminium is still harder than brass, but not by much, but that would still transfer any damage to the brass part. not wanting to be the harbinger of doom here, but doesn't this look like a direct approach to solving the issue of 'the O Ring being shredded' rather than the issue of 'why is the O Ring being shredded'? In this case, the cause is the opposite end of the physical problem. Stop the Flop (no viagra jokes here please...) and stop the O Ring shredding.
  20. Chris, I hear what you're saying. It had occurred to me that because of the need to vent the blow back gas that the cylinder would need to leave the brass part. But that gas should vent pretty quickly, and the force of the recoil spring should be sufficient to push the bolt back even after a short period of venting. So a couple or three holes around the rear end of the brass cylinder 'should' be sufficient. Relative pressures do equalize pretty sharpish if given the chance. Failing that, looking at the other end of the problem...... why not make the base end of part 38 the same
  21. Cheers WETTI, was just trying to get everyone singing from the same hymn sheet. Personally, I am not unhappy with the stock recoil. I'm probably going to leave that bit well alone. On the subject of the gas rod stabilizer and seal 122 going kaput..... would there be any benefit in extending the brass tube 112 so the seal never leaves the brass tube (so it can't misalign) and porting the end of that brass tube with a hole or two to vent the blow back gases? or am I barking up the wrong tree here? Well, I'm just waiting on the hop/barrel upgrade before I buy all my other
  22. For WETTI: Propane (C3H8 to give its chemical formula) is a natural gas. Green Gas/Top Gas tend to be made up of Propane, Silicone (usually between 0.5-2%, used a lubricant) and some aromatics, so you can smell any leaks. They are proven to be one and the same thing. So when we talk about Propane, assume we mean Green Gas (but without the lube). My point was, TS-One claimed they have tested their products to withstand Green/Top Gas (propane) and claim to have increased recoil on their new recoil buffer when using Green/Top. Customers on this very thread, using pr
  23. Very refreshing indeed. I note that... Odd, because I'm sure WE recommend that the WE M4 is run solely on Green (propane) because the blowback action is probably not sufficient when run on 134a. Please correct me if I am wrong. And if this is the case, surely it would be prudent to run your tests using Propane or equivalent. Bearing this in mind.... if your current products are not designed to work with Propane, what the hell is going to happen when the CO2 mags are released? That will blow your product testing out of the water! On a personal note, do we know w
  24. I prefer the VHS vs. Beta-Max battle myself.......
  25. yeah I have to agree with everything thats been said. I didn't want to be overly critical to the WA mainly because I'd be talking supposition rather than from first hand knowledge which is what I like to base my responses upon. So all my references to the WA here are only from what I have read about other people's experiences and I can't corroborate any of them. From the 2 guns, they both seem to have issues. The WE M4 doesn't have problems 'non-stop', it does have a few niggles here and there, but like I said earlier in this thread (not in response to your query), its new, ther
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