3vi1-D4n
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Everything posted by 3vi1-D4n
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The advantages of the older closed bolt striker system is accuracy and power. I could never get the newer open bolt system to give desirable accuracy or power for field use. Mind you, it depends if you see UZIs as a <35m gun or >35m gun. I use it as a backpack PDW, so long ranges are desirable. But yeah, congrats on procuring one of the rare much disregarded gems of the GBB world
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I have one gas mag, no issues atm. It does have sealant in it. But then again I have had good fortune with VFC MP5 mags also (had 7, none leaked). Not so for WA based magazines though...
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To get this QD mount done properly you really need a mill. Here is why: The guy originally used a grinder to cut a 45 degree which is why it was still over protruding, he screwed the mount in AFTER he closed the 2 halves together, damaging the screw (meaning that I could not disassemble the gas chamber without stripping the screw). That and it wasn't threaded in properly, the threads were stuffed. For this to work you need the high temperature silicone gasket seal (grey stuff that doesn't flake of and get inside your barrel), a M10x1mm threading tool and a 9mm drill bit. Anoth
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From the album: Mods
45 degree P90 HPA mod -
The mods I do:
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Also a few quick notes: - Upper receiver is really loose on the lower receiver - Seam lines on the lower receiver can be annoying if using without gloves. - Trigger is heavy because the trigger bar is too short and you have to push back fully on semi-auto until trigger pushes against the safety. Solution is either to either rebend the trigger to lengthen the bar to shoe, or as some people do, make a custom spacer to push the trigger bar sooner. I did a mixture of both.. - Accuracy is fantastic at short ranges on stock barrel, and is even better after the hop rubber has been b
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I fixed it. There are two trigger bars, one is a piece of wire bent into a loop that you can see as you take the upper receiver down. That is attached to the trigger shoe. The other trigger bar is attached tot the trigger pack, that releases the hammer. As the magazine pushes down on the gas chamber, it pushes the 2nd trigger bar that is attached to the trigger pack. You can either file down the gas chamber by 0.2mm or file down the trigger bar by 0.2mm. A relatively easy fix.
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This is where the QD hose attachment was attached. Its a great idea as it keeps the gas mounts away from the ground, and doesn't crush the hose. He threaded the attachment right against the screw that holds the expansion chamber together. It actually bent the screw. I tightened the attachment, and then milled it until the attachment did not interfere with the screw on the inside. Currently that hose mount has been disabled by the way of a small rubber ball attached on the inside.
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I didn't notice the return spring on the transfer bar. There is a spring behind the trigger thats all I saw.
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Ok I will fix it and see. Thought someone may have had solved the problem before. The P90 I have atm is HPAed, the guy drilled a 45 degree hole and put in a connector, which is quite destructive. I blocked the connector and re-enabled the magazine gas feed. Seems ok for now. My RSI hasn't been playing up which is strange given my ACM P90 and Marui's have given me grief so I might run this for a while.
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Thanks. How do I place an order for your adaptor? I have a funny dilemma atm. I recently bought a 2nd hand P90 to do this transplant mod. The gun has a strange issue where semi-auto works while the mag is out of the gun and manually cycled, so it can't be the reset distances, but as soon as I put the mag in, semi-auto works for 1 round and then stops. Flick it to auto, no problems. Any ideas?
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Where can you get the KA upper? And rustork, do you have new photos of your new adaptor?
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As renegadecow had said, the insertion of steel pin/screw and gradual build up of plastic material would be the most suitable mod. In looking at the area, there isn't much space to work with to build up material I would find 1-2 small steel sheet metal screw(s) with a dome head that can sit flush with the flat surface is best to give you stability particularly its a sideways turning force so a domed head with a flat flush would prevent any tilting of the metal insert when holding the magazine in, or shearing/bending during insertion.
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My question would be, is there a difference between the magazine catch dimensions and the distance in the magazine catch to the magazine? If the WE mag fits the WELL then there are just subtle differences in the magazine catch? Replace one from an AEG?
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Yes, looks like it should still catch right? Can you fit the WELL onto the WE for comparison?
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There is a flow restrictor which you can knock out during disassembly. Gets it up to 560fps. After that it's very skirmish able. I used mine against a hoard of AEG users, the insane fps gave a distinct psychological advantage particularly if people are hit. They know you have the disadvantage of limited rounds and a lever actions difficulty to reload on prone so they are more than willing to Zerg rush you until they get hit, then the screams of agony quickly convinces them to reevaluate their decision to go against you in the first place. But if you so go down that route for modificati
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From the album: ACM Kevlar Helmet Testing
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From the album: ACM Kevlar Helmet Testing
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From other people's feedback, while most people like the AUG for its quality and build, they would still prefer the M4 over the AUG because of familiarity in controls and ergonomics (muscle memory). The real steel is slightly front heavy but the GHK is very much rear heavy, and coupled with its high sight to bore distance, makes it less intuitive for common airsoft engagement ranges. People who play CQB pick it up and immediately find it cumbersome even with the short barrel. From my experience as a tech, the AUG is much better designed than most GBBR platforms currently available, poss
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BBs reaching out to 60m visually and had been hitting the side of an AC unit at 45m by sound registration with 0.25g I would say it could be better if I used heavier rounds.
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From the album: GHK AUG Mods
The light is a bit funny there... -
Mods to the GHk Steyr AUG
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The firing pin breaks because of an issue in the manufacture of the trigger housing. If you look closely at the firing pin while hammer is down one side goes forward more than the other side. You can make the stock firing pin lasts for quite a while longer if you dremel that down to the same level. I have seen the plastic nozzle fail also, but it is a combinational issue of misfeeds and overloading. The feeder guide are prone to this issue. Most have been working excess of 10k rounds no issues. I have seen the small nozzle/bolt retention screws bend from the excessive recoil it ind
