Slo

Hey, if we confused the hell out of you - as you say, hell, buy both! Yeah, that's right, spend nearly 2000 dollars and make up your own damn mind if you don't appreciate what others are trying to do here. To me? I could give a flying *fruitcage* who buys a CA or a STAR. It's your money and I'm not going to be the one lugging it around. Nearly everyone who posted in this thread were just trying to show that, despite everyone thinking it was going to be a piece of *beep*, the STAR is a very capable, though different gun, from what CA is offering. And contrary to '######' on eit

Another after skirmish report guys: Today, same as the last three weeks. Gun performed superbly, and even better so with the upgraded spring and the barrel actually not flopping around. Fired about 4,000 rounds today, bringing my total up to nearly 17,000 rounds in three weeks of play. Keep in mind, all mechbox internals are BONE stock, running a PDI 170% spring. Thing just keeps ticking - even I didn't expect the piston or gears to run this long with no problems, even when it was running at stock fps levels. The only problem I've run into, and it happened today, was the box mag kep

Looks to me like normal sized 6mm ones. Sorry I didn't clarify, I forgot a lot of manufacturers are putting 7mm bushings in their mechboxes. -Slo

No, the Star has normal sized bushings as far as I can tell. And all I have in mine is the spring. Everything else is stock. I have a box full of upgrade parts sitting around, but I'm waiting to see how long everything will last in stock configuration. The only other "upgrade" if you could call it that, in my gun, is the Prometheus hard hop up bucking, because the stock one is pretty weak in my opinion and was not standing up to hard usage at all. -Slo PS: 785 Euros. . . wow . . .

About the springs - I have a PDI 170 in mine. Also no noticable drop in ROF in mine either. Definitely above forum limits, but I've put about 5,000 rounds through mine on this spring - no problems. -Slo

No problemo. Glad I could help. -Slo

Yeah I had a time getting it back in where it was 'springy' again. What I do is put the gun down on it's right side, then I put the spring with the short extended piece into the lever itself with the longer end pointing outward and out of the lever. Next, it requires a balancing act, but you keep the gun level on it's side, place the lever in without moving the spring from it's position lined up with the lever hole - it will stay lined up with the hole if it's not shook, and then put the pin back in. Be sure to have the pin handy to be ready to stick in there. Then, put the E-clip

Yeah, I noticed that if I shook the gun, I could hear the rattling of the inner barrel slapping around in there. Intrigued, and wondering why the hell my groupings were ALL over the place, I shoved an o-ring down there and found it shot 200% better. Anyhoo, here's what I did to pull the barrel: I pulled the two screws on the side of the gun, the one under the barrel change lever and the one on the other side just in front of the cocking handle. Then I pulled the e-clip on the pin and the pin and spring holding the barrel change lever and pulled it off. Then I undid the lar

Stock FPS even after replacing the piston head o-ring and even after checking cylinder compression at the air nozzle, the FPS wasn't that great in stock form. Though, I was using a crappy paintball radar chrono, but even so, it said I was shooting barely 310, with a low of 298 and a high of 315. It's hard a ###### to chrono it simply because there's no semi auto, and the chrono has a nasty habit of going to RPS instead of showing FPS numbers when you go full auto over it. Also, being since it's FA only, the piston is never cycling one complete time over and over, so I attribute the deviations

I've run a 9.6 2400 mah batt on mine for the past 13,000 rounds and nothing untoward has happened, BUT - and a I do stress the but, I know my way around a mechbox, so if something breaks, I'm not too concerned. Star recommends on an 8.4 in stock configuration, so you might do best to hold off if you're worried about breaking something. If you know your way around a gearbox and aren't worried about having to replace stuff, I'd recommend the 9.6 - the ROF is absolutely hellacious even with a stiffer than stock spring. -Slo

About the prolonged bursts thing - I've done a burst of about 15 seconds holding off 6 guys and nothing untoward has happened. Have done shorter bursts of 7-10 seconds multiple times in the same game. The STAR just kept chuggin along. It has definitely impressed me. My M60E3S didn't fire more than 6,000 rounds in STOCK form before it tore the bellows . . . . . . -Slo

Indeed, both gearboxes are more than fine for airsoft. I'm not downing one or the other, nor was I trying to start some kind of flame war, but I think it's sad that when people see the word, "plastic" they automatically think junk. Sometimes yes (especially in the airsoft world)but in this case, no. -Slo

ABS? Sure I will: it's called a TM and CA G36 and a KSC Glock 17, 18C, 34. But when you get down to it, on the real G36, the reciever is made of polymer ie: plastic. I think I just said that . . . And to my knowledge, a Glock pistol does not have a "body" per se. . .it has a metal slide, metal barrel and a polymer lower grip assembly. Any more brain busters? -Slo

Why is everyone downing the plastic gearbox as being uncapable of handling grossly powerful upgrades? Honestly, I would trust a high tensile plastic more than that ###### potmetal that most Asian companies use - TM included. There is nothing wrong with plastic - when I took my STARs mechbox apart, the gearbox seemed extremely solid and had no torque when I tried to flex it. Am I saying that it's unfallible? Of course not, but consider what's plastic in the real gun world: Glock, H&K, and a whole other multitude of pistol lower frames. Yes, they are technically polymer, but when it com

I'm using a Tango Down sling made for an M4 on my Para. Modified it of course, but it's got a nice thick padded strap and is solidly made for real firearms. And someone posted here that current aftermarket parts were indeed NOT compatible with the STAR gun. And I whole heartedly agree - I think they should've made a different case for the MkII owners because I imagine it's a PITA to keep taking the stock off and putting it back on when you want to take it somewhere, not mention the fact of the wear and tear on the gun by having to keep messing with it. As for having to squish the gun