tome

Thanks Kullwarrior I was hoping that would be the case!

Hi, couldn't find this anywhere, but does anybody know where I can get the little fake body pins for the lower receiver? I bought one for a custom build and found that they don't come with the fake pin bits! Cheers Tom

Hey, I tried to do a search for this but "f93" was too short a search term. Has anybody tried to fit one of these to a WE m4? http://www.redwolfairsoft.com/redwolf/airsoft/Accessories_Grips_and_Stocks_GBB_Ergo_F93_Pro_Stock_GBB_DE.htm does it have the correct buffer threading? Cheers

I think you can but when we tried to fit a real one onto a m300 clone when they first came out the threading was different.

Thanks for taking the time to test it I really wish they could make one that would do it as i'm not brave enough to use a genuine on in a skirmish! I guess I'm stuck with using a clone 6p with a genuine tailcap.

Does this version come with a clicky tail cap? If so how does it fair compared to the real one. On the older 300 clones the travel was too short and light to use it as a momentary switch like you could on the real one.

Hazarding a guess, this nozzle problem may be known to TM. The o-ring behind the nozzle is a bit special, I don't recall seeing that in any GBB me or my friends have every owned and it's purpose would appear to be reducing the shock on the nozzle when returning to battery. It is also telling that with the o-ring removed the bolt returns fully to battery rather than stopping just short, suggesting that the o-ring was added too late in development to change design or maybe even molds. PS. I'm glad to see you weren't offended enough to just turn and leave arnies. Good on you mate. Some membe

Probably as a result of the combination of forces from the gas and forces from scrapping a bb from the mag, making the nozzle reach a load state dry firing just can't reach ;-)

unless the design is fundamentally flawed ;-) Just kidding, I'm pretty sure someone will make one out of more suitable plastic.

I actually have a PDW but since the trigger box is the same between the two i thought i'd ask here. Is it possible to lighten the trigger pull? I've heard that this is a "realistic" pull for an m4 but for me after years of AEGs and a KJ m4 it just seems too heavy for me and it's making my double taps feel wierd :-S Cheers

Hi, I just read all the way back to page 10 and didn't find much on this so I'll ask Has anyone run their PDW on CO2 extensively? Any problems encountered? Cheers Tome

Nice Good luck on your upgrades. Hope it all goes well, I'd totally build a marksman rifle out of a KJ m4 if the results were worth it!

Longer barrel plus more power from hammer or gas :-O doesn't a longer barrel in a gas gun already increase power quite significantly (of course this depends on how much gas is released). At least this was what I experienced with Tanaka m700 series sniper rifles.

Those mags look like they learnt a lesson from Tanio Koba ... which of course is a good thing !

I loved my KP III as well. They are probably the most protective kneepads you can reasonably get. I remember at UA I was running for a doorway in the rain and slipped up. My knee hit the edge of the step in front of the door hard enough that I felt and heard the air escape from the foam. I didn't even get a bruise on that knee I doubt many other kneepads would have done quite as well as that. Eventually they start to squeak/scrape at the hinge but nothing a wash and a quick spray of PTFE lube (like GT85) won't fix. I have a slight complaint though, which is the customer support is non-ex

I had a quick look at semi auto carriers for real ARs and it looks like it might be possible to make the KJ semi only by filling down the underside of the rear of the carrier enough that it doesn't trip the auto sear. The selector switch would still be able to go into the auto position to move the auto sear into position for auto fire so if you had two bolts you could go from low fps auto to high fps semi just by changing the bolts around. ... or have i gotten confused somewhere?

I seem to remember reading in the thread that some brands are easier to mod (closer to the KJ barrel) than others. I can't remember which ones though.

I've gotten a reply but it's been about 2 weeks since I emailed her.

I've read about the orientation of the spring on the auto sear a few time but don't really understand what I'm looking for. Could someone with one that's in the right place post up a pic?

ok, sorted out the problem with the buffer moving slowly. I figured it wasn't supposed to have an almost airtight fit with the buffer tube so i filed around the head of the buffer and now the buffer moves smoothly and quickly. Unfortunately.... it still stops randomly in full auto.....the investigation continues edit: not entirely sure why the buffer had such a tight fit in the first place. Might be the carrier hitting the buffer and deforming it outwards enough to get it to form a semi-seal :S

ok, i've put it back together without the detent and the carrier still doesn't always return to front completely, requiring a little push of the forward assist to seat it. I noticed that the buffer is a really snug fit with the buffer, enough to be slowed down by the air needing to escape between it and the tube when i dropped the buffer in without the spring. Is that normal?

OK took a pic. I've loosened the sling mount enough now that when the buffer is in the tube without the spring it will travel the full way up and down when I tip the tube up and down. That should be smooth enough right? It slows down a tiny bit at the crimped point but will keep on moving. I'll test the carrier movement now.

Sadly I can't tell because i didn't pay enough attention to how it looked before it cracked However, when i point the m4 upwards and rack the charging handle, the bolt moves slow enough that it doesn't return to battery some of the time. I'm not sure if this is because it's colder weather now or if it's the retaining peice's fault. Subjectively it feels like the bolt is moving slower when I let it go as well. Could cold temperature make it do that? EDIT - just took a better look and it could be resting higher than normal, maybe by half a millimeter or so?

T-hum, when i opened up my m4 to put grease on the piston o-ring i noticed that the lower receiver has the crack in front of the thing that holds the buffer in. Would that affect the full-auto in anyway? I also found that now the weather is cold I had to loosen the sling mount that goes over the buffer tube as it's tight enough to pinch the tube out of shape just enough to stop the buffer going full forward on occasion. I cleaned the piston and re-greased with AEG piston head grease and the problem is still the same.

It would funny (well, not that funny for PTS FPG owners) if the ACM will not exhibit the problem with the full-auto :-P