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CatgutViolin

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Everything posted by CatgutViolin

  1. Very nice collection, I'd never heard of Guarder making a Webley but you've just added another item to my wishlist. Random question for you or anyone- do any companies make gas-in-shell revolvers that use CO2, or are they all either CO2 in the grip or duster/green gas in the shell?
  2. I think the intent of the O-ring was to prevent CO2 pressure from leaking out the back of the hull when fired, but since the hull itself seems to provide a good enough seal it seems to have been omitted sometime during production. On designs like the Goblin, the hull is a friction fit, so it uses O-rings on the shell to both seal and prevent the hull from falling off.
  3. Build log is over in Project Suggestions if anyone's interested.
  4. Did some substantial refinishing to the WE M712 I reviewed the other day and added wood grips.
  5. Makes sense- it's hard to find authoritative sources on anything relating to these guns, as most of the Mauser records were destroyed in WW2. Also, I found that if I depress the selector switch button, the pistol fits in the shorter, wooden stock/holster just fine. So, if the attachment point is modified slightly to accommodate the airsoft stock iron, then a real wood stock should work with this gun. Oh, and I completed my refinishing and modifying the wood grips, so I figured I'd post it to show how much less toy-like this gun can be made to look:
  6. Interesting explanation, thanks. Although that does raise the question- does this mean that all the original, German M712s I see with the longer stocks, like the reference photos I posted, are actually using Chinese stocks? Also, I have to wonder what the armorers were thinking making the stock even longer. I'm well over six feet tall and the stock is uncomfortably long for me, I can't imagine what it would be like for an average Chinese soldier circa 1940.
  7. (continuing) I took some photos of the internals but don't intend to disassemble any further if I can help it. Contrary to popular belief, the C96 is actually really easy to fully disassemble, as everything just slots together (in fact, the only screw or pin in the entire gun is the grip screw). The airsoft one, on the other hand, angrily threatens to never go back together again if I mess with it. I do want that hammer to be silver, though. I'll figure it out. Anyways, back to the slide assembly. The firing pin is the round thing in the back. A screwdriver slots int
  8. Back in early November, I ordered this from Evike. As their preorder date repeatedly slipped, I decided to cancel and order from JKArmy instead- who then went radio silent for three weeks, until a Paypal dispute goaded them into shipping this week, finally getting this gun into my hands over two months after my initial order. So it's been a bit of an ordeal, but I'm glad to finally have my hands on a: WE Airsoft WE712 (AKA Mauser M1932 AKA M712 'Schnellfeuer') First, some context about the real weapon. The M712 was developed in 1932 as a variant of the Mauser 1896, which at tha
  9. It's a technique commonly used by prop modelers, I'm not sure if anyone else uses it for airsoft. I take powdered graphite, typically sold as a lubricant for locks, and rub it into the surface of the metal with a soft cloth (ie cut-up T-shirt square). This turns the satin black finish into a very metallic grey, but at this point it can be removed by dragging a finger across or getting it wet, so I spray it with matte varnish. This adheres it to the surface, but kills the shine, so I buff it thoroughly with a clean cloth to get some shininess back. Once that's complete I either call it done if
  10. Man, did I kill this thread? After passing up the opportunity to buy a real Artillery Luger at a gun show this weekend I contented myself with overhauling my airsoft version to try to make it a usable sidearm. I think my graphite rub 'bluing' technique looks a lot better than the default glossy black.
  11. STALKER LR-300 (called the 'TRs 301' ingame). The short A&K LR300 is a good start, but there are a lot of little discrepancies between it and the in-game model that I felt compelled to fix. The big changes are the stock and addition of a SUSAT, but I also swapped out the grip for a standard M4 grip, extended the barrel by 2", and DIYed a tri rail for the front sight block. It's not a perfect recreation (and it never will be, given the wonky proportions and mirroring of the ingame model), but I think I got it a lot closer than it started.
  12. The Webley shells have the same dimensional base as the regular Wingun shells- meaning, they're .357, not .455, so you'll need .357/.38 speed strips to load them, which is what I do. If you want a speedloader, I bought a pair of speedloaders for the Ruger Redhawk that work great. Don't try using 'generic' speedloaders, the Webleys are using .357 shells in a .455 cylinder so you need a speedloader specifically designed for a very large revolver to function. Using a magazine to feed loose rounds definitely works. I have an AMT Automag III whose magazines serve double duty as speedloaders for
  13. A few days ago I got a pair of Well Webleys, because for $57 USD apiece I couldn't resist. True to form, one of them arrived already broken, and I had to take it apart and modify the hammer spring just to get it to shoot. Still, the build quality is otherwise on par with Wingun and the price can't be argued with. The one on the bottom is stock, while the one on top I have hit with a bit of steel wool, buffed with graphite, and sealed with a matte varnish: So, one thing I found interesting is that the Well Webley's cylinder catch isn't the same as the real thing. When the frame is full
  14. Got my hands on a pair of Umarex Single Action Army revolvers in 6mm. Also, they work with the homemade 'ratshot' shells: Which I originally built for my Wingun: The shells can hold up to six BBs and are intended for Wingun revolvers, but seem to work in the Umarex SAAs despite being slightly undersized for the chambers, so I suspect they'll work in a variety of revolvers. They're made from vinyl tubing sleeved inside deprimed .357 magnum cases with the primer pockets bored out. If anyone's interested I wrote a how-to guide on making them- have a read and let me know
  15. I'm going to a post-apocalyptic themed game in a few weeks so I figured I'd dress up my APS for the occasion. Refinished the stock, added a heatshield and bayonet lug, and painted up a rubber M9 bayonet.
  16. For reducing friction in the channel, definitely, but you need to make sure the surface is deburred and polished, which could take a while to go through successive grits of filing/sanding. Considering the other benefits this modification provides, and that it takes about three seconds for a drill to go through the channel, it seemed like an easy choice to me. Keep in mind the valve stem doesn't actually seal against the channel, it seals against the O-ring that rests above the channel, which is significantly oversized, so this modification doesn't compromise the seal at all.
  17. I knew I should have taken a reference pic before drilling out all my shells. Here's an unmodified shell: Notice how the valve stem is a perfect fit for the channel that it rides in. This works fine when they're new, but the shells I have that were heavily used had nicks and burrs in the channel making the valve movement gritty and stiff. As well, it's a tight fit for the firing pin, which over time can apparently cause damage or even breakage, and the way the firing pin grips the shells makes it a little harder for them to extract. If you look at my shell above, there's a gap bet
  18. Thank you! If you use a CAM870, also consider modifying your shells for improved performance.
  19. I did a little bit of experimenting today. One of my shells was experiencing a lot of friction between the valve stem and the channel it rides in, which was making it hard to trigger. Following the advice of a user on the Airsoft Canada forums, I drilled out the channel with a 1/4" drill bit: This immediately produced a number of improvements: -The friction in the channel is gone and the valve slides smoothly. -The charger knob (the part you screw to lock in the shell) doesn't stick to the shell, which makes it easier to charge the shells. -The shell expels less gas when it 'sets'
  20. Completely by accident I grabbed the worst-looking one of the shells I got with the gun (which had been heavily used), and not any of the other 10 used shells that look okay nor any of the 24 brand new ones that arrived in the mail Thursday. The cool thing is that while the rim looks gnarly, a quick hit with sandpaper to knock out burrs makes it function perfectly.
  21. APS CAM870. I also figured out how to make effective wads from scratch instead of buying the APS ones, and wrote up a guide on Imgur.
  22. Got mine all done up, got to try it in-game, and did some work on making homemade wads and varying payloads- all in all a productive week. First, here's the gun: I'm very happy with it so far, but buying the APS wads and paper seemed like a total ripoff so I decided to make my own. After a few failures I found two methods that seem to work really well, one for CQB using a shot card, and the other for longer range using a homemade shot cup. I wrote up a guide and put it on Imgur. Hope you guys find it useful. Here's a pic of the finished product:
  23. I finally bit the bullet and got the full-length wood furniture one, but I'm having an issue with disassembly. I removed the tube extension followed by the barrel, but now I can't get the bolt and forend off. On a real 870 I'd depress one of the shell latches and it would slide off, but that's not happening here. Do I need to remove the stock and trigger housing just to get the forend off?
  24. It can turn in 90 degree increments. It's meant to either be used as a makeshift carry handle, or turned to the side to hook under your arm so you can hold and shoot one-handed while breaching a door, escorting a prisoner, rappelling from a helicopter, renewing your subscription to Tactical Life, etc.
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