Trasher

Firefox 11v 1600mah lipo-stick was good for hundreds of shot at 570fps.

It's a Leupold Mk4 replica from ehobby. Parts should be here next week.

- PDI 450fps spring: I guess this is what the trigger group can take with the PDI 2nd sear installed. I ordered a 570fps PDI VSR spring of the same ID/OD, so we will see. - Cylinder size: the piston is also shorter, so I think air volume shouldn't be a problem. Spring size? Maybe. - I'm not skirmishing with a 270fps sniper rifle. I think the rifle is fine in stock form (210mm groups at 40m with .29 SGMs), but nothing exceptional. I ordered the PDI cylinder HD set, 2nd sear, barrel spacer, VSR endcap, and a VSR setpin, plus 2 springs (450fps and 570fps). - My pics of the internal

PDI parts are already out: cylinder sets, tightbores, and now springs...

No. Tighbores barrels are overrated.

For example: http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/madbull-shark-h...one-spacer.html

Tried different setups, the best was the black Madbull Shark with the black fishbone nub/spacer. The Element/Deepfire black H-nub is not recommended, the white is OK. The factory barrel is high quality, no need to replace. Test the stock gun before replacing anything.

The real thing has very little recoil, like a .22WMR...

Please note guys, with a Systema M160 your rifle will be well over 600fps... I think an ~M140 and .29 SGMs is the best combo for the SVD.

Great pics stuntman, I always wanted to use a dog ingame to track down opponents.

lipo stick 11v 1100 and 1600mah. (for 580fps)

I fired hundreds of shots on a very high powered spring and never had a jam. 8.4v 1600mah sounds low powered to operate the rifle on stock spring. You also have to learn to pull the trigger fully back (unlike with real guns) and wait until the cycle is finished.

And do you think this "little bit of tape" will prevent barrel wobble/creep on the long run?

Pimp my 556...

If there is no barrel wobble how the outer barrel can move? Or do you seriously think only the outer barrel wobbles, but not the inner? Point is, if any of you really want to improve accuracy, instead of buying useless inner barrel upgrades, please fix the outer barrel assembly and install a mechanism (a ball bearing and a spring for example) which will make sure the nozzle is always locked in the same position.

Well, RA-Tech asked for a wishlist (in their MP7 review video) of upgrade parts...

You know, we are talking about refinishing/fakewearing wooden parts...

Tweaked the hopup a bit more, and I can 2nd the opinion that black Madbull Shark rubber and fishbone spacer is the best config so far (for BBs around .30).

Spending $$$ on tightbores won't fix the wobble of the barrel assembly and the hopup/nozzle inconsistency... Don't expect much improvement in performance, if there will be any.

Installed black Madbull Shark rubber, but consistency didn't got much better. Switched to Guarder 70 and black H-nub. Performance improved, but no tests until midweek. The Prometheus barrel didn't improve anything (as I expected) so I went back to the stock one.

I shot 100-150 BBs today to test accuracy. Target was a woodland overall (at kneeling height) at 60 meters. Typical result was 6-8 hits out of 10 shots with .40s. Not bad. Problem is, accuracy started to degrade after a while... Fps variation is OK (no more than 2-4), so I suspect the hopup rubber or deposit in the bore from the .40s. I'll try the Madbull Shark hop next week. Short video of the test coming up.

1. Removed the finish with 100 and 180 sanding paper. 2. Sprayed a thin layer of Tamiya red brown. 3. Sprayed everything matte black. 4. Wiped most of the black off with a rag and paint thinner. 5. Sprayed a thin layer of Tamiya linoleum deck brown. 6. I'll apply at least two layers of matte transparent finish. I expect some of the paint to wear off for more realistic/battered look. The rubber buttplate is a shortened, modified AK recoil pad. That is all.

Almost done with refinishing the wood, no more shiny red tint, no more slippery buttstock:

If you don't like to upgrade guns then you should also avoid the A+K SVD.

Do you mean the scope? It's the PMO16 model, which has better optics than my earlier, Belarus-made model - but it's still cr*p, too low powered, too narrow field of view, narrow eye relief, etc. I just ordered an original SVD-to-Weaver mount and a good Leupold M1 replica to have a fieldworthy scope. A Prometheus 650mm barrel is also on the way for testing.