user7

On your hunch, I bought a g&p tape switch [for ehobby asia] It does fit the jack, but it still is a constant on no matter which mode it is in. meaning if I squeeze and release the tape switch it is on and stays on until I press it again.

I ordered it from airsoft global in hong kong. from order confirmation to my doorstep took about a week.

I forgot to mention, when I mounted the dbal to my gun (it took the same real estate as the peq). the vfc tape switch did not fit the G&P dbal. the g&p jack is slightly longer and thicker, however i don't have any measurments. I don't have any other laser remote switches to test out however. I just tried plugging in my headphones - and they fit! obviously they won't do anything, but i can say that the dbal will fit shure se210 <- whatever that size is.

It's about 1 - 1/8" not counting the adjustment dials (those are off to the side)

Please bear with the video quality, my $100 camcorder likes to auto-adjust light and focus for max annoyance. Part I - the review http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wh6padC1AJQ Part II - function test http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DIVO-NsAeKI

As some of you may know, many airsoft guns in canada are now partially or wholly clear body, for ease of importation. while it is well known for lesser chinese companies to sell clear plastic airsoft, more established companies such as G&G and SRC have started manufacturing clear bodies for the Canadian market. KJ Works is the first company to create a clear lower receiver for a GBBR. Before I paint my body black, I wanted to get some video of the mechanism (hammer, sears...) in action. the main focus of the video is the clear body and the internals while in operation. the the dr

on a similar vein, what tool is needed to remove the grip. the allen keys i have are too short to reach the screw

i justt hope there is a c-mag in the future

I still have mine, and it still fires (most of the time). even though i'm a plinker, it has shown some worrying wear - namely a crack in the hammer has appeared. I try to not dry fire it or use stronger gas on hot days. I've also noted that there are light strikes during hot summer days when I use green/propane. it comes down to it that Tanakas in general are not upgradable; there is no aftermarket support, no clones even.

it's sooo long, its fantastic. two questions, how many shells does it hold now? and did you replace the old spring with a longer one? (though that would most likely be a yes). fyi, i recently measured the inner barrel to be 241mm. still do not know if aftermarket aeg barrels would fit as i didn't take apart the hop up to see how it worked. if anyone cares about my opinion, it seems the new CL slugshots don't use an inner barrel system so in theory one could remove the inner barrel unit, find a way to affix the ring thingy that connects the barrel & mag tube at the front end,

I dont own a camcorder, so that would be tricky to pull off. My digi cam does have a video function, but i would have to be pretty drunk to believe i'm photogenic enough to put my mug on the internet. Maybe in the future.

The performance On duster the power is fairly weak, but that is to be expected with the gas pushing 3 BBs through one barrel. Although I do not have access to a crono, I think under 200fps on duster is believable. The range I’m using is 25ft / 7.6M long with an ambient temperature of about 15 C/ 59 F. The first couple of shots on duster seem to show a rather tight grouping; the first shot produced two holes 2cm apart and the second shot produced a single hole. However, it was only after all the shots were fired that I noticed some flyers that did not catch my eye. These where located n

As said before, the outer barrel is held by a small metal pin underneath, near the receiver. The problem is after using the gun several times, the vibrations shake the pin loose, drops down slightly and jams the fore-end tube assembly (see picture). Removing it allows the barrel to be removed and exposes one of the few plastic pieces of the gun, the chamber. I should say that the outer barrel, chamber and breach bolt (which to remove, would require taking the chamber out) are not meant to be disassembled as the exploded diagram in the manual does not go into that detail. (shot from

The fore-grip is removed by twisting the fore-end tube nut; I used a used a flat head screwdriver and sort of “stirred” it out, after which the fore-grip slides out. I didn’t remove the fore-end tube assembly because it was not necessary and it seemed difficult to remove; needing to pivot it up slightly and jimmying both of the action bars to disconnect it from the breech bolt.

Once that is done, unscrew the mag tube, twisting counter clock-wise and pulling it out from the front. This gives access to the barrel guide ring which is fixed to the barrel via a Philips screw. Incidentally the screw also holds the inner barrel assembly in place, so once that is out the inner barrel slides out the front. As shown in the pictures, there is a fixed hop up, most likely tuned for 0.2g BBs as that is what is recommended in the manual. I unfortuantely forgot to measure the inner barrel but I would estimate it to be around about 24cm in length. (flashligh