user7

On your hunch, I bought a g&p tape switch [for ehobby asia] It does fit the jack, but it still is a constant on no matter which mode it is in. meaning if I squeeze and release the tape switch it is on and stays on until I press it again.

I ordered it from airsoft global in hong kong. from order confirmation to my doorstep took about a week.

I forgot to mention, when I mounted the dbal to my gun (it took the same real estate as the peq). the vfc tape switch did not fit the G&P dbal. the g&p jack is slightly longer and thicker, however i don't have any measurments. I don't have any other laser remote switches to test out however. I just tried plugging in my headphones - and they fit! obviously they won't do anything, but i can say that the dbal will fit shure se210 <- whatever that size is.

It's about 1 - 1/8" not counting the adjustment dials (those are off to the side)

Please bear with the video quality, my $100 camcorder likes to auto-adjust light and focus for max annoyance. Part I - the review http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wh6padC1AJQ Part II - function test http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DIVO-NsAeKI

As some of you may know, many airsoft guns in canada are now partially or wholly clear body, for ease of importation. while it is well known for lesser chinese companies to sell clear plastic airsoft, more established companies such as G&G and SRC have started manufacturing clear bodies for the Canadian market. KJ Works is the first company to create a clear lower receiver for a GBBR. Before I paint my body black, I wanted to get some video of the mechanism (hammer, sears...) in action. the main focus of the video is the clear body and the internals while in operation. the the dr

on a similar vein, what tool is needed to remove the grip. the allen keys i have are too short to reach the screw

i justt hope there is a c-mag in the future

I still have mine, and it still fires (most of the time). even though i'm a plinker, it has shown some worrying wear - namely a crack in the hammer has appeared. I try to not dry fire it or use stronger gas on hot days. I've also noted that there are light strikes during hot summer days when I use green/propane. it comes down to it that Tanakas in general are not upgradable; there is no aftermarket support, no clones even.

it's sooo long, its fantastic. two questions, how many shells does it hold now? and did you replace the old spring with a longer one? (though that would most likely be a yes). fyi, i recently measured the inner barrel to be 241mm. still do not know if aftermarket aeg barrels would fit as i didn't take apart the hop up to see how it worked. if anyone cares about my opinion, it seems the new CL slugshots don't use an inner barrel system so in theory one could remove the inner barrel unit, find a way to affix the ring thingy that connects the barrel & mag tube at the front end,

I dont own a camcorder, so that would be tricky to pull off. My digi cam does have a video function, but i would have to be pretty drunk to believe i'm photogenic enough to put my mug on the internet. Maybe in the future.

The performance On duster the power is fairly weak, but that is to be expected with the gas pushing 3 BBs through one barrel. Although I do not have access to a crono, I think under 200fps on duster is believable. The range I’m using is 25ft / 7.6M long with an ambient temperature of about 15 C/ 59 F. The first couple of shots on duster seem to show a rather tight grouping; the first shot produced two holes 2cm apart and the second shot produced a single hole. However, it was only after all the shots were fired that I noticed some flyers that did not catch my eye. These where located n

As said before, the outer barrel is held by a small metal pin underneath, near the receiver. The problem is after using the gun several times, the vibrations shake the pin loose, drops down slightly and jams the fore-end tube assembly (see picture). Removing it allows the barrel to be removed and exposes one of the few plastic pieces of the gun, the chamber. I should say that the outer barrel, chamber and breach bolt (which to remove, would require taking the chamber out) are not meant to be disassembled as the exploded diagram in the manual does not go into that detail. (shot from

The fore-grip is removed by twisting the fore-end tube nut; I used a used a flat head screwdriver and sort of “stirred” it out, after which the fore-grip slides out. I didn’t remove the fore-end tube assembly because it was not necessary and it seemed difficult to remove; needing to pivot it up slightly and jimmying both of the action bars to disconnect it from the breech bolt.

Once that is done, unscrew the mag tube, twisting counter clock-wise and pulling it out from the front. This gives access to the barrel guide ring which is fixed to the barrel via a Philips screw. Incidentally the screw also holds the inner barrel assembly in place, so once that is out the inner barrel slides out the front. As shown in the pictures, there is a fixed hop up, most likely tuned for 0.2g BBs as that is what is recommended in the manual. I unfortuantely forgot to measure the inner barrel but I would estimate it to be around about 24cm in length. (flashligh

The guts I’m sure everyone has heard that the Tanaka shotgun is close enough to the real steal version in terms of dimensions that one could fit aftermarket furniture and other real M870 accessories. However, comparing the internals of the Tanaka with the manual of the Remington M870, and many of the parts look the same as well. I am not saying that real steal internals can fit or that you could convert it to fire real ammunition, but it is nice to see this attention to detail. Because of a mysterious problem that prevented me from fully cycling my gun, I decided to take my gun apart in

The operation Gassing up the shell requires the included special tool that prevents the valve from opening while filling. As seen in the pictures, the gas fill valve is located in the centre of the back of the shell and around it is the bit that the firing pin strikes to release the gas. I've said before that the shells are like little grenade shells, well they're not exactly like that. The gun does not hold the valve button open, rather like any GBB or NBB it strikes it briefly. I have found that the shells hold enough gas for at least six shots and frankly after the sixth time I got tired

More detailed pics (that shaky look is not intentional, I'm just a poor photographer)

The details The gun is based on a 14” full stock version of the M870. It can house 4+1 shells but since I only have the two that are included, I can’t comment on the fitting of the shells (such as how tight the last round goes in the mag tube). There is only a front bead sight so this gun is intended for quick point and shoot, which I have not fully mastered yet but rest assured it is easy to aim. I’m just a bit thick. Trades are beautifully engraved with “ 12GA. FOR 2 ¾ OR SHORTER SHELLS” on the left side of the barrel and on the right, “TANAKA WORKS ASGK MADE IN JAPAN”. Similarly engr

The Intro A while back, Tanaka released a new, more modern shotgun to compliment their m1897 trench gun. The first in the M870 range is a fixed stock , 14” police model. Here are some specs that I err… borrowed from somewhere: weight = 2 550g, length = 875.0 mm, capacity = 4+1, power = 350fps. I’m betting that the power Redwolf reports is based on a single bullet using green gas/propane., performance is significantly reduced when using 3 bbs. Tanaka shotguns, for those that do not know, utilize a gas in the shell system which differ from other gas shotguns and are more like tiny grenade