DipTwit

My etiny also lets the sector gear spin just a bit longer / further than standard a&k or systema. This is generally fine as there's no anti-reversal latch so the piston spring tension will keep it from happening when the gun's in normal use. As long as you 'back off' the sector gear to it's typical position (using a burst sounds like it works for you) before you close the receiver shut, it should be all clear. Since your is making weird noises, the electronic swap might mean nothing and you should double check the following (no offense meant if these seem idiotic, people really have do

Yup it sure is. You can double check the chamber packing (that the nozzle seals against) in the hopup to make sure it is in good shape too.

No, but I did try King Arms and one other brand of Cylinder - might have been alpha but I'd have to check - and I did find there are minute differences in nozzle sizing between brands. The diameter, not the length: in some cases, the 'flare' around the nozzle actually binds going into the hopup. So as opposed to not being long enough, it simply doesn't go all the way in because it's sticking. If you have digital calipers you can sometimes gauge if this is the problem, but otherwise you might have to play with it in your hands to kinda 'feel' if this is happening. If so, you might have to c

I don't think it sounds excessive, the piston head does a pretty good job of pulling it back straight, and I'm pretty sure mine are similar to that. Does it feed ok if you just hold the gun upside down and drop a single bb in the tube? Not sure if that's a great test, but curious anyway.

Sounds like there's a few things that could be going wrong... if the new screw you put in has a larger head, or if the damage to the piston head is severe enough, then the piston head might not be gripping the nozzle to pull it back (or not pulling it back all the way) This means the nozzle isn't moving back enough to allow the next bb to load. You should be able to test this by taking out the main spring (from the back so leave the piston / cylinder heads in place) and pull back on the piston, watching how the nozzle moves. Also, after replacing the nozzle spring, make sure the nozzle mov

Not exactly sure what you're trying to describe here - are you saying the back (inside the cylinder) end of the nozzle is damaging the piston head? I've had this happen with a genuine Systema (although it was a well used one) where it broke off pieces of the lip that holds the small piston head o-ring in place. If you mean the nozzle is jamming in the cylinder head though, from not being kept straight (too much wobble in the nozzle, and won't slide in and out smoothly) then it could be either the nozzle or cylinder head but I would think you could see the physical damage easily if it were

My Systema won't swap upper/lower with my A&K, the takedown pins are slightly different size but I heard that the latest batch of A&K fixed that, anyone able to confirm it? Also, my Systema was second hand and a challenge kit, so I'm not actually sure if it's a 2007- or 2008+ I just know it has the newer internals. I didn't think Systema changed anything in the fit of receivers during that time, but again someone else might be able to confirm.

It seems to always be a double-edged sword... the clones are trying to add value by including out-of-the-box some the handier 'upgrades' out there (this is a copy of the hopup made by RWA and others) but if they do so at a lower quality level, are they really helping? I'm at the stage where, if someone wanted to buy an A&K to run as a primary, I could help them replace some of the stock parts with ones that will last better, and make a few mods that will avoid the breakdowns I experienced. I appreciate that the A&K allows me to do so, but I appreciate even more the fact that the st

Not quite sure what you're asking - any setup found to work well in a Systema will also work well in the clones. I have a CQB Orga barrel with Orga flat hop adjuster and love it, very accurate.

What that means is that it's getting jiggled around in the process, enough to press down on the microswitch at some point. Maybe the bolt catch spring is a little strong- normally that lever is held in a neutral balance between that spring, and the spring of the microswitch. If either is a little stronger then shaking the gun will cause the microswitch to accidentally go up (empty mag detection) or down (bolt catch pressed detection) In fact this does happen normally from time to time; usually it detects empty mag by mistake during a game and you have to tap the bolt catch to keep

Be VERY careful with that white post, it's ceramic not plastic so it's probably cracked. I would avoid touching it as once it breaks off it's not simple to replace, you'd have to dig the bottom half of it out if the threaded hole it's in.

Be VERY careful with that white post, it's ceramic not plastic so it's probably cracked. I would avoid touching it as once it breaks off it's not simple to replace, you'd have to dig the bottom half of it out if the threaded hole it's in.

I put a detailed post a page back in this thread, but the gist of it is that A&K use a thicker bearing on the end(s) of the bevel so the bevel is a little different than Systema. So the Systema bevel sits further down, scraping against the sector gear, and the shaft is too long to close the gearbox without binding. I found a bearing the right size, but still needed to shim both ends to get it perfect. I suppose you could dremel out the cavity in the bevel gear, just remember it still needs to have at least one shim so it only touches the inner circle off the bearing. You mi

I suspect you'll fit those gears in fine, except the bevel gear, since it'll be the same as the Systema one. However, I have a set of those gears, and I don't think they're any better quality than the A&K ones, to be honest. With a Systema bevel, pinion and motor, my gearbox sounds smooth as butter, just as nice as my real Systema. It just took some work...

Yup. No idea why it would be on that tight, never heard of using loctite on a cylinder, especially from the factory. Unless it got cross-threaded when it was assembled and they just cranked it instead of straightening it out and re-screwing. Buying a new cylinder isn't a bad thing, of course, in my case the stock cylinder was made of such soft material that the threads wore out after taking it apart a half dozen times. King Arms ones are decent, PPS are ok, not sure about others. Whatever you get, take it apart and lube the cylinder and all rubber, in case they are dry. And make sure the n