deadwood83

Be careful with outer barrels in the A&K upper receiver. On my receiver the centering pin cutout was rotated to about the 11:50 position and the A&K barrel was pinned to match, but a dytac or Systema outer barrel would not have the hop chamber groove centered because of it. I'm not sure if a systems or FCC complete rifle would have been better since people end up replacing electronics, motor, hop chamber, and packing anyway. The Systema receivers aren't anything to write home about either. Plus the learning aspect is worth a lot. I've had 3-4 people ask me if they should sell t

The bolt catch absolutely needs to be push to make. when the switch is pushed, that is like the bolt lever (key word being lever) being pressed into the receiver. When the bolt catch is OUT, that is what happens when a magazine is empty and the electronics cut out. With your current switch (push to break) the gun will only fire with the bolt catch in the 'mag empty' position.

Not Orga barrel, just Orga hop unit. I use a DeepFire SS barrel in my PTW. Once you superglue the sleeve to the barrel itself (deepfire just cuts their AEG barrels to PTW chamber end and supplies an outer sleeve) it works quite well. My outer barrel is 12.5 inches so an Orga barrel is not very practical since they'd cut it and I'd probably lose the crown.

The FCC pinion will work with the A&K box, it just won't sound that great. I have the A&K pinion on my JG motor which feeds my FCC CNC gearbox just fine. Note that my FCC gearbox is the torque type (larger sun gear and different tooth count on bevel to match) so that my ROF does not exceed the magazine's feeding speed since I use only .25 to .3g BBs. The FCC gears are MUCH stronger than the A&K gears so the A&K bevel will wear itself to fit the FCC/Systema pinion. My A&K pinion now has straight teeth rather than a slight helical arrangement and is very quiet. I a

Well in the interest of science (and because I can't stop tinkering) I now have both RWA and Orga hops. But I'm having a bit of a problem. To try and keep things a bit consistent I put the Orga hop in the RWA hop chamber using the RWA hop packing but every bb overhops a lot. In short, using .28g at 435fps I could consistently hit a target 9 feet above my point of aim at ~70 feet of distance... with the hop off. Have any of you guys experienced this problem? Looking down the barrel, it does seem that I can't get the center of the hop rubber to be as recessed as my RWA hop. The bottom of t

Whew so I've used my franken-TW and a second A&K TW as well as my brother's G&D DTW MAX3 10.5" keymod each for two games now (and my franken-TW for 3 days of ~5 games each). The subject of each paragraph is bolded so that you can skim for relevant information. Regarding Feeding Issues and Magazines/BBs. I found the two big feeding issues were magazines and bbs. The G&D magazines feed well in the DTW but are dismal in my PTW and A&K TW. A&K magazines are incredibly inconsistent in assembly which leads to feeding issues. I purchased 5 individually packa

Heh. So yesterday my younger brother's 10" 2014 G&D keymod w/ USMC markings also came in the mail. If there is an interest, I can compare it to my A&K as well as what has become of my A&K. As I've delved further and further into the individual components and assembly of my A&K I became more and more frustrated. Basically if I had an extra screw set, an extra buffer tube, and an extra pistol grip I could reassemble my A&K from the parts left over. With that said, if there is genuine interest I could do a comparison between A&K, G&D, and a more or less from

I'm curious about this as well. My KingArms cylinder has a locking ball too small to properly hold tension against the buffer tube cap in the receiver as well as fitting loosely. But my A&K cylinder has already ripped the rack on a piston. Now, if your KA cylinder fits your buffer tube hole (should need to compress the ball spring to make it sit flat) and it doesn't wobble in your receiver then all it needs is a good lubing and red loctite on everything. The individual components seem to be well made and quite strong. I'm curious about Celcius and PPS/Super Shooter cylinders tho

Most definitely. I think some of the poor motor performance is related to the whole brush/comm problem. Even cleaning brushes and comms in a normal AEG motor (spinning 19k rpm) can net you a gain of 60 rounds/min. I would think then that the effect would be greater for higher RPM motors (such as PTW motors). The problem is that these clone motors rarely have the brushes in the proper shape. This can, of course, be remedied a bit by proper low-voltage no-load break-in then a cleaning, but that will cause brush wear on brushes that may already have a short life. But brushes are cheap.

SO a little update. The blue board A&Ks are NOT CTW clone electronics as suggested here: http://www.airsoftcanada.com/showpost.php?p=1810670&postcount=22 I tried to fit my CTW-compatible etiny trigger board and the button was too low for the trigger to push. It was an easy fix (desolder big button from A&K board and replace small button on etiny with larger a&k) but just a heads up. Hoping to get my other stuff all installed today. Took apart the A&K motor yesterday and my goodness it was poorly assembled. One of the four screws on the pinion end was cross threa

Red loctite?

Ah, roger that. I love the S&W trades a lot; probably because my daily carry pistol is an S&W M&P9 Pro Series. Placed an order for the G&D 10" keymod from ASGlobal. Well, my younger brother did since he loved the idea, function, and feel of my A&K rifle but didn't want all the problems. The G&D gearboxes seem to consistently show less wear inside when opened in every review I've seen. Some people have had problems with poorly dimensioned planetary and sector gears, but on my A&K those gears were fine so between his rifle and my spare parts, a truly good clon

The popular consensus seems to be that the best mod for stock hop rollers seems to be gluing the stock roller then gluing a piece of Dubro RC Helicopter Fuel Line over it to make the nub fatter. There are DIY mods for flat nubs as well. I;m thinking that for cushions do you think that 16AWG silicone insulation from turnigy batteries would work? I tend to get pieces of the perfect size to go between the ring and barrel when installing deans connectors, but my condo isn't big enough to do any real testing. Oh and a warning regarding mixing and matching etiny electronics. If your A&

So the stock A&K electronics have a nifty feature that fails to get mentioned. Three round burst. I don't know what I did, but now my auto is a three round burst.

Roger that. My motor has much epoxy holding the windings. When and if the JG motor comes in I'll take it apart and do the 'Tack' mod which is soldering the comm and wires as well as removing the shims from the 490 type motor so that it is height adjustable. Our A&Ks have the center grip plate screw which, if replaced with a longer piece and a ball from a bearing placed on top, can adjust armature height for a perfect bevel:pinion mesh. One thing that carries over from AEGs is motor height. Proper motor height will do wonders for long term reliability and reducing stress on the motor i