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Tarnish

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Everything posted by Tarnish

  1. Others on here have said that they're not very good quality and that the CA 1200 round auto-winding mag is a far better option, albeit more expensive, this is only hearsay, I have not even seen a MAG box mag myself. Anyone with real hands on experience of it here?
  2. Well I'm an armourer in the defence industry if you want to bandy "knowledge" around and I can state that the Minimi is not a bleedin' rifle it's a machine gun hence it being called the L110A1 Light Machine Gun in the British Army. One of your drill staff obviously didn't know his *albartroth* from his elbow on that day. Anyway it's all by the by as Pablo says, this is airsoft and they're all smoothbore anyway.
  3. On that score I have to agree with Gaffa that the A&K is anything BUT a beginners AEG. I've been playing airsoft for eight years and if I try to imagine myself in 1999 trying to get to grips with the Minimi I'm quite sure it wouldn't have been a pretty sight. I've owned and used AEGs by various manufacturers from TM, Classic Army and ICS for example so I have a fair range of experience. The A&K M249 certainly has its share of rough edges but having paid £200 for a clone where a CA249 would have cost at least twice that, I have to say that as far as I'm concerned the A&K is a great
  4. Jonny having looked at your profile to see you say you have a G&P M249 so I'm a little bemused as to why you would the fork out for an A&K M249 too. Anyway it does seem rather pointless you ranting at the rest of use who all in all are pretty happy with the A&K. Keep in mind too that a great many of us can't stretch that bit further to buy a more expensive M249, I'm afraid my mortgage and other sundry bills win. that battle! If it wasn't for A&K I wouldn't have a Minimi full stop. You say a lot of people on other forums are having trouble too? I'm active on a number of oth
  5. Well there's great consistancy on A&K's part I see. My wiring is 16 AWG, seems we may have all got different sizes and I was lucky and got thicker stuff. Still in your position I'd still be tempted to see how the stock wire fares during use, any wire is going to get warm considering how we airsofters tend to abuse it.
  6. It's a myth, the battery voltage is the deciding factor, the gauge of the wiring has no effect on that score. I've made no changes to my wiring and my fuse is still in place and the RoF is very good indeed with Component Shop's 9.6V battery around 800rpm at a rough estimate by my ear. Basically "If it ain't broke, don't try to fix it!"
  7. As I've mentioned before I have the 9.6V 2200mAh "nunchuck" battery from The Component Shop which fits very snugly in my Mk1. If you have a Mk1 or Para the 4300mAh battery you've listed will not fit, the battery compartment is not big enough. I say regards the Mk2 obviously as I've no idea how big the battery space is there.
  8. Yes it is worth buying and no an 8.4V 3300 won't fit in a Para, you also need a small connector and that 8.4V will have a large one. I have a 9.6V 2200mAH NiMh "nunchuck" battery from The Component Shop fitted in my Mk1 for £19 plus £2 P&P. I've sealed the two halves of the battery together using clear sealent. The battery space in the fore-grip which is used in the Mk1 and Para is 128mm long by 34mm wide and a maximum battery depth/thickness of 34mm. You're far better off getting a 9.6V too as the gun can take it fine and it keeps the rate of fire up that little bit higher.
  9. Well that's encouraging, hopefully the standard bits will become available too as I'd like to have a Para stock, barrel and carry handle set to slap on my Mk1 when I feel the need.
  10. I've done a little more cosmetic tweaking to my Mk1 to improve its appearance around the area of the gas block and fore-sight group. Having studied pictures of various Minimis I noticed that on the real Mk1 the gas block pin (the one the heat-shield hooks under on the Mk2 and ParaMk2) is much shorter, so I have cut it down in size and profiled the ends to make it correct in appearance. Additionally I wasn't too keen on the colour of the metal coating used on the gas block so I gave it a dose of the abrasive blasting machine at work which took it back to a bare metal colour which was a vas
  11. I believe FarEast is going to give details of that box-mag fix in his full review of the A&K M249 but he'll be able to give the final word on that score.
  12. Other than having carried out some lubrication and tidying up the cable harness I'm going to leave my gearbox as it is until I've given it a session in the field. I've got some shims ready and I've been eyeing up some replacement wiring but I'll save all that for the future. I was all geared up to hit Combat South yesterday but I gave it a miss due to a dodgy foot that needs a little longer to get better so two weeks from now it is.
  13. Doh! Yeah too right there, send it back! No amount of modding will stop that one falling off!
  14. Two things corrected that problem with my box-mag. First I gave the release catch and its spring a good squirt of silicone spray as it was a bit sticky in its operation. Second I modified the ammo feed block slighty so the flange did not interfere with the box mag release catch as unmodified it is always partly operating the catch. EDIT: Note it will still be "loose" in as much as you will feel it move on its mounting bracket but it should not become detatched in future. ! As Pablo said, referring back to my original post.
  15. No worries, that's why we're all here I hope, to help each other out. You'll soon discover that AEG engineering is more of an art than a science and as Pablo said of his efforts we've all made our fair share of mistakes in the past, I know I have!
  16. Methinks Pablo has found a new love in his life! You'll have to give us a break down of all you've done to your beastie when you get a chance.
  17. Well I placed my order for two batteries with Component Shop at 10:10 yesterday morning, the package arrived this morning and the 9.6V "nunchuck" is now charged and in its new home in my Minimi and I got a little freebie key fob with a compass and light in it too. Thanks again for the link Smurf.
  18. All to the theme from Mission Impossible
  19. The Mk1 does not come with a rail on the feed cover, but then I'm a bit of a purist hence my choice of the Mk1 in the first place, I've no great desire for a scope on mine. Mind you I am hoping that the various sub assemblies such as the barrel and butt groups will become available for separate purchase in the future so I can mod mine into a British Army Minimi, then I may want to nail a SUSAT on if a decent one ever get released. Oh incidentally regards my battery purchase from The Component Shop this morning, I've already had an email to say they've been dispatched. Now that's
  20. Yeah I'd done the biz of splitting the cable and I used some locking wire as a hook to achieve the same result you got with a rod and tape. I agree the barrel removal is a rather funky feature as it's the same as the real weapon but the thing that concerns me is the outer barrel being quite soft and the amount of wear that the locking catch causes even with a lot of care being used. I'll give the fore-grip removal a fair crack of the whip if only to save on that wear. Like yourself though Stealth the more I play around with this gun the more I like it despite it flaws.
  21. I recall there being a mention some days ago by someone complaining that they didn't like having to remove the barrel the fit the battery in the Mk1 and Para. Well for those that aren't yet aware the manual is correct and the foregrip can be removed. It has a hook at the front end and the rear engages in a spring clip. To remove grip at the rear and rotate downwards, to refit locate the hook at the front onto the gun then rotate the rear back up and push into engagement with the spring clip. I think this will aid the issue Stealthbomber also noted in the difficulty encounter when feeding the w
  22. Thanks for that Smurf, I've now ordered two batteries from them as the prices are so good. The 9.6V 2200mAh "nunchuck" for my Minimi Mk1 and an 8.4V 3300mAh for general use on my other AEGs. Two batteries for less than the price of one from any other store I'd looked at, a damn fine deal. The feature I really liked on the website too was the diagram with dimensions of each battery that comes up when you click on the photos, a great aid for helping decide which battery is suitable for ones needs
  23. Thanks for that link, I'd not heard of them before, great prices. I do have to chuckle when I see a 2200mAh battery being accussed of having " not a lot of capacity". I think it underlines how few rounds I fire compared to most airsofters, 2200mAh lasts me a long time indeed. I played for a good few years with an 8.4V 1250mAh NiCd battery that only started to let me down when it got old. Anyway back to the subject how is the service from the Component-Shop and how is the quality of the products? This assuming you've actually ordered from them of course. Cheers
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