CaptCalvin
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Everything posted by CaptCalvin
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As much of a VFC AR fanboy as I am I actually wouldn't trust their other designs. The above post I would only apply to their AR pattern rifles since that's the ones they seem to be focusing on improving over time and there's relatively little to go wrong with an AR design in the first place.
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Probably ill-advised. The trigger components in the MWS are chrome plated to prevent wear. You'd be removing this protection if you start filing away on these.
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If my past experience with ratech parts are any indication those will "explode" as well. In any case a steel bolt stop wouldn't do anything good for the hop up unit. Make one out of nylon like renegade said. All it takes is a dremel tool... or even an exacto knife
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From my experience the WD40 definitely did not destroy any of my o rings. I did not observe cracks and disintegration in the rubber soaked in WD40 as I have with some other types of lubricants. Still I would consider it a short term solution. The swelling goes down after a few days and the same leaks happen again and I would have to re-soak. Ideal solution would be to just find a more snug fitting o ring.
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New firing control group parts have almost no bearing on this problem. The main fault lies with the steel wire trigger bar being too short. When the trigger is bottomed out on semi mode the trigger bar doesn't push the trigger link thingy in the fcg pack far enough back to break the shot. It is only when you pull even harder beyond the design and start flexing material does it get pushed back far enough to trip the sear.
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One thing I found to be hokey about this gbb is that when bumped in the back hard enough the hammer will drop due to the mass of the trigger bar. Only thing that prevents it from firing in this event would be that the hammer would be caught by the auto sear since the bcg would also be bumped out of battery at that moment. This would require cocking the gun again to reactivate the trigger, in which case you would end up with a double feed. So I don't know about adding any more mass to the trigger bar.
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Nope. Won't fit. Trouble is mainly with the hopup system.
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Cheese metal bolt isn't the problem. There's quite a lot of material to wear on that. The problem (or potential problem) is the hop unit.
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Great news!
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I mean if we have more information about how it works we might be able to make a more informed opinion.
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The guy's page seems to be selling his/their projects including this one. Not sure if it's a one off or if he/they are making more. My Chinese reading skills are especially with traditional characters is pretty rusty so I'm not entirely sure what the story is.
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So this is already out there:
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The outer case is made of some pretty cheap plastic though. I barely applied any force on the screws and it put hairline cracks around the screw holes. Though the cracks haven't developed beyond that point. The screws are now just loosely screwed in and held in place by loctite.
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I don't have any inconsistencies my self. Just thinking of some of the things that can cause these problems.
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Yeah that's one problem with CO2. On some guns it chambers the round so violently you'd have to use so much hop just to stop it from rolling out the barrel, as well as putting dings and scratches on the surface of BB's that'll affect trajectory.
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Yeah that's what happened with mine out of the box. Stopped after about 2 days. As for the inconsistency, some things to look out for would be the rocket valve, the rocket valve spring, the pin that holds the front portion of the nozzle to the rear, as well as possibility of double feeds which appears to be pretty common with this gun.
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Well plenty of systems take RS uppers these days. But good point on the trigger pack.
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Well with that kinda skill and resources you can practically do anything with any GBB AR platform.
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While you're at it, remove the magazine, depress the magazine disconnect, and fire the gun in full auto that way. Observe the bolt carrier assembly and describe its behavior.
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And if it clicks is it a faint or pronounced one?
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What I did was just to put a piece of rubber in between the reservoir and the bb channel assembly so the feed lips actually sits completely flush with the hopup unit. This also ensures that when you release the magazine that has bbs loaded you don't get a loose bb that might fall into the rest of the mechanisms that'll cause problems. However you wont be able to keep the dry fire function on the magazine as the switch will not be retained this way. I actually wouldn't recommend bending any zinc alloy either. This stuff don't take well to being flexed.
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I think it's alright. Takes more work to make skirmish able. But I like the p90 and I like gbbs. It's not like I have many options right now or probably ever.
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As for me I keep it on and I expect it to function. I get GBBs for realism and if the gun keeps cycling after rounds run dry that kills realism for me. Also real potential for someone to keep shooting at someone thinking they're sending projectiles down range when they aren't. At least with an AEG there are distinct audio cues.
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I don't see it adding too much mass as I imagine the zinc alloy itself is of comparable weight to the steel. Though I would still definitely stay away from RA-tech. I don't see a steel bolt carrier here as necessary anyway. But if you must have a steel bolt carrier I'd look at the CAT one instead. It has a more realistic shape and although I can't find any weight figures right now it does look to have less material than the ra-tech or the OEM if you're concerned about reciprocating mass. Also the bolt carrier doesn't come in contact with the cross bar, assuming the elastic buffer in the stock
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Modern consensus regarding burst modes expecially Colt's mechanism seems to lean on the unfavorable side anyway. Non self resetting as well as inconsistent trigger pull depending on which position the ratchet is in makes it very undesirable. Also, you didn't have to swap out the buffer for a rifle length one? Wouldn't you have to stick a massive amount of coins in there otherwise?
