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  1. Greetings. Thank you for opening my question. Quite a bit of a long post ahead. Sorry for possible typos.I am preparing to buy my new airsoft loadout this fall. I've been running a cheap Woodland setup for a few years now, but it's more than time to upgrade, really. I've put together a kit I would like to use, so I have every single element (Weapons, base uniform, carrier, pouches, helmet, accessories etc.) already picked. I am working with more kit variations, depending on which pieces will be available when the time comes to buy them as one full loadout. But I have stumbled upon 2 problems.My trouble is connected mainly to the camouflage and climate I will play in, so photos of our average forests are coming up shortly. My location is Middle / Eastern Europe.1. I am not quite sure what my base camoflauge and upper layer color should be. I would like something functional for my climate. So, I picked Kryptek Mandrake as my base (combat uniform set). I would like to ask: Do you think this is a good decision ? Would you recommend something else ?2. Again, I am not sure of my upper layer (Helmet, carrier, pouches, MOLLE backpack, gloves, knee and elbow pads). There is not much of these colored in Mandrake, and if yes it would most likely cost me a lot in shipping. So, I have to resort to one-color accessories (gladly, I think it looks cooler, actually). Now, I can't decide between Olive and Coyote. I know Olive is great for forests but I have seen Coyote working wonders in some forests as well. What would you recommend picking ? If there is something better you can think of that I have not mentioned, please, write me about it here.I tried putting all of these into perspective in Photoshop onto the images I attached to this post. From what I've seen, my current favorite combination is Mandrake base + Olive upper layer. But I am still not quite sure, considering all the stuff such as shadows, bright sun light etc. And that is why I would like to ask for help from you guys.Photos:Kryptek Mandrake variant I think will work the best for my climate:Average look of our forests in spring: In summer: And in fall: So, what do you guys think ? Should I switch any parts for other camo / color ? Would you overhaul my choices completely ? What do you think could be done in a better way ?TL;DRI am looking for the best color combination for my loadout and climate. Current favorite is Mandrake + Olive but I am not quite sure, and I would like to get to know other's tips.Once again, sorry for a long post. Thank you for any input. Have a nice day.
  2. This is Dead_Christmas's (DeadChristmas69's) review of the Crosman Stinger P36. Its true name is the M43F. (OEM'd by Double Eagle).Memories of the past await! The Crosman P36 takes us back to a time far into history!...The exact time I cannot recall. *Shrugs* My age was ten when I got my first copy of this replica. This pistol was actually my first airsoft handgun! The version my mother bought for me was the transparent plastic one with black grips. One event remains in my recollection. The battle between my neighbor and I at an unpopular local park, far out in the countryside. My friend's Remington Wingmaster proved to be an overwhelming opponent for my meager sidearm. The battle was his, and I hadn't stood a chance.The present day is our focus, now. Currently, two Crosman versions are in my possession. Clear and black, sitting alongside a sort of desert camouflaged-grip and clear plastic version. Both of them were eBay listings, calling out to me for purchasing. Of course, I felt more than happy to oblige. Both of my copies arrived with their magazines, and used, but undamaged condition. Excitement at the prospect of owning another piece of my childhood was almost palpable!Now, their specifications will be listed:Retailer brand, OEM: Crosman, Double Eagle.Origin of production: ChinaModel names: Stinger SASP36/P36 by Crosman, M43F by Double Eagle.Price: About 16$ for the SASP36 itself, and 4.99$ for an extra magazine (SM1P36). Due to scarcity of both items mentioned previously, prices will vary. Common second-hand prices range from 20$-30$ including the cost of shipping.Package includes: Crosman P36 (SASP36), one magazine (CR-SM1P36/SM1P36), owner's manual, warning sticker, 100 Crosman .12 gram pellets in an LLDPE bag.Real gun counterpart: STI 2011 4.0, precise model unknown. Likely chambered in 9mm.Firing mechanism: Spring-action, manual cocking, single shot.Caliber: 6 millimeters, 0.24 inches.Velocity with .12, and .20 gram pellets: Roughly 200 FPS, and roughly 154 FPS, respectively.Sights: Fixed front blade, fixed rear notch. Entirely unmarked.Build materials: ABS plastic externals entirely, ABS plastic internals almost entirely. ABS plastic constructed magazine. Aluminum inner barrel. Steel springs and screws. Contains lead weights in the grip, and inside the magazine.Some examples of accessories designed for this model: Crosman/Game Face Pistol Holster (SAH02), Crosman/Game Face Shoulder Holster (SAH03), Crosman Class 2 Red Laser (71599), Crosman/Game Face LED Weapon Light (75901).Weight: .68 lbs, .31kg.Overall length: 7.5 inches, 19 centimeters.Inner barrel: Smooth bore, aluminum. Exact length unknown, but likely around four inches long.Hop up: Yes, fixed, designed for .12 gram pellets.Range: Short with .12 gram pellets, and .20 gram pellets. The hop up has a noticeable affect on .12 gram pellets, but almost none with .20 gram pellets.Accuracy: Poor with .12 gram pellets even after cleaning the inner barrel, hop up, and pellet loading path. .12 gram pellets fly either above and left or right of the sight picture with poor consistency of accuracy. .20 gram pellets are significantly more accurate, and fly in a flat trajectory. Consistency of accuracy with .20 gram pellets is okay.Outer barrel threads: None.Accessory rails: Yes, one picatinny rail with one locking screw slot on the bottom of the frame. Not the same size as real picatinny rails, but can fit weaver and picatinny accessories provided that the locking screw is not too wide.Magazine Capacity: 14 rounds.Safety: Yes, lever, it is the fake slide-stop.Orange tip removal: Not recommended, glued in place to the outer barrel. Outer barrel will become too short, have a black piece protruding from the bottom of the outer barrel, and become receded into the slide.Parts that are known to break: Trigger, and the back of the slide.Markings/trademarks: "STINGER P36", "CAL. 6mm BB", "made in china", "SAFE", "FIRE", "WARNING: BEFORE USING, READ OWNER'S MANUAL AVAILABLE FROM CROSMAN CORP, E. BLOOMFIELD, NY 14443 US.". Five digit serial number.My subjective view on appropriate uses for this replica: Backyard war. Target practice.Personal thoughts: This is obviously a pistol designed for target practice, or for battling with other spring weapons. Though, the P36 falls short in comparison to even other handguns above and below its price range. Nostalgia and sentimental value what primarily attract me to it. It's an ancient model presently, with the earliest review discovered to be from 2005. eBay currently has three of them available, or one might be found Goodwill's online store. Spare magazines are next to impossible to find, though I own two of them. The P36's grips are comfortable to hold, and indoor target shooting is a fair challenge with this sidearm. The biggest challenge in that, is figuring out how to position the sights in order to properly cannonball .20 gram pellets.It's light, fairly small, and does a decent shot. Most importantly, the P36 reminds me of fond, and possibly rose-tinted memories from my childhood.Images of the SASP36 will be posted in the future.

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