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Hey there, I made my first video about a range-accuracy test with a PPS XM26 shell ejecting shotgun. I bought this shotgun a half-year ago but it was one of first time when I used it. My experiences was that this shotgun isn't like the cold weather, that is why I didn't use it for a while. I recorded this test on 5-10-15-20 meters distance with 4 different BBs, like 0.12g - 0.20g - 0.25g - 0.30g BBs. The results was that you can hit the target on 5-10 meters all the time if you aimed to the target. On 15 meters I recommend heavier BBs, like 0.23-0.28g BBs because the wind can change the trajectory but in CQB I recommend 0.23g or 0.25g BBs. It is hard to hit the target over 20 meters which is acceptable for a shotgun. If the weather is good (temperature) you can hit the target by aiming above the target. The grouping is really closed thanks for the hidden inner barrel and for the fixed hopup system, there isn't any grouping under 8-11 meters. Basically the XM26 shotgun is a really nice gun. The receiver and the bolt carrier is made from aluminium, the outer parts looks really nice. The stock is a copy of B5 crane stock with really nice surface/finish. I liked the gun except the compensator which was made from plastic, I will replace it with a steel version in the future - it will cost a lot to reproducing but I don't care. Sadly it is hard to use because it doesn't have any shell catcher - unlike the M870 has few solution. The M870 isn't as well built shotgun as an APS CAM870. Lighter and it looks like a toygun - compared to APS. The receiver and all the external parts made from metal, more like aluminium. There is few parts which made from steel - ejecting plates, forend cradle bars, shell carrier, shell ejector, shell catcher, sear. The painting on the receiver isn't homogen but the other parts are really good. At this moment I'm a bit busy but I like if you share your experiences with your PPS shotgun. I will record a video review in the future but at this moment I can not do it.
Just a little bit of background, I saw a video of this gun back in October and immediately became interested. I'm a big fan of both the Terminator films and Westerns, own a modern reproduction of the Winchester 1887, and had been long considering buying a Marushin M1887 and seeing if I could convert it to 6mm- so when I saw that a clone of the Marushin was coming out, and in 6mm no less, I jumped at the opportunity. So first things first, here's how it comes out of the box. Not too bad, really. The finish on the wood is terrible, and the matte black finish looks a little weird compared to the distinctly metallic finish on the real thing, but the whole gun is aluminum and the grips are decent quality wood. It feels solid. I've owned quite a few cheap pot metal guns and it doesn't feel like that at all, and I wouldn't be concerned about breakage. That said, it's aluminum. Repeatedly opening it up to mess with the grips and internals has worn at the threading and it's in danger of stripping screws. Just have to be gentle with it. So firstly, working with the externals, I sanded the wood down, easily removing the cheap stain and finish. I stained it with a few light coats of Minwax Gunstock, then sealed with several layers of Tung oil. As I said, the wood is much better quality than the finish indicates, and I think it came out pretty well. I also wanted the gun to have a more metallic sheen, and while I could try wearing down the paint to expose aluminum, I was concerned that oxidizing aluminum would have the wrong finish. So, I buffed it with powdered graphite. My point here is that while it may look like a cheap toy out of the box, it's not made of terrible materials and can look much better with just a little bit of work. I did try fitting the full stock from my real 1887, and it would take just a little bit of removing wood to make it fit, so I ordered a second full stock so as not to modify the one I use on the real shotgun for obvious safety reasons. Now onto operation. First, it uses green gas or duster, through a fill valve cleverly hidden behind the hammer arm. With the hammer uncocked, you open the action fully, and it exposes the valve. Because the valve is recessed, the gun comes with a small fill needle extension, but I found I didn't need it for my propane adapter. It was hard to get a good image here- the gun is pointing to the right, and you're looking at the lever assembly in the foreground. Next, the shells. The gun comes with five of them. Each shell is a CNCed aluminum tube with a plastic sleeve/cap friction-fit over it, with an O-ring at either end. The design is almost identical to the Maruzen M870/M1100 shells, but slightly shorter and with an interesting recessed rim design. Unlike the Maruzens, the interior is not simply a single 6mm hollow tube. It has a larger 6mm hollow tube big enough to hold the BBs, which narrows into a 4-5mm channel for the gas, like airsoft revolver shells. Because the BBs can only fit in the short, larger section, each shell only holds up to 3 BBs. That's better than a single shot I suppose, but still pretty stupid since I see no reason whatsoever why the shell could not be opened up with a drill bit to hold 8 or 9 BBs instead like the Maruzens. It looks to me like it was just cloned from the 8mm Marushin, which only held 3 BBs, which is a disappointing missed opportunity for improvement. Below on the right is the stock shell. You can see the O-ring that holds the BBs in and the 6mm tube, and just the end of the gas channel. On the left is a homemade shell- we'll get to that. So now with the shells loaded with 1-3 BBs each, they get loaded into the gun. Oh, here's where the fun begins. It seems simple enough- open the action, push the carrier down with a shell, slide it into the tube. In practice, however, if you push the carrier too far down the shell just runs into the bottom of the magazine tube, and the shell won't go into the tube unless it's almost parallel, necessitating a very awkward motion to load it. If your finger slips, the follower or already-loaded shells ram the one you're trying to load back, and then you have to wedge it forward with your thumb and push it into the tube. This process can be dramatically improved, as discussed below, but out of the box it took me about a full minute to load five shells, and that's as someone already used to the funky loading mechanism from the real thing. Here's what the action looks like. The lifter is the only significant plastic component on the gun. Oh yeah, and the gun holds five shells in the tube plus one in the chamber. The manual says 4+1, but the gun holds five in the tube fine. By comparison, the real thing also holds five in the tube and one in the chamber, but can also hold an additional shell on the lifter, for a total of seven. This replica can't, so it's limited to six. Once the tube is loaded, the user either loads the last shell directly into the chamber, or onto the carrier. Fully opening the action pushes the lifter up, then closing the action loads it into the chamber. Here's what it looks like with a shell on the lifter. Pull the trigger to fire, then cycle the action with the lever. The extraction is extremely smooth and reliable, and doesn't ding up the shells or wear down the extractor the way the Maruzen guns do. It's very smooth in operation. Unlike the real one, it does not eject straight up, it flings the shell backwards and a little bit up, so they go across the user's wrist. No complaints here, it does exactly what it's supposed to. I will note that the gun is a little weak, firing about 330fps with 0.2s and propane at roughly 70F (21C) with just one BB, making it pretty weak with 3 BBs. That's also fixable. I'll note here that not only does the gun have a hop-up, but it's even adjustable and works pretty well. That's a great feature for a multi-shot shotgun, as most seem to have a fixed hop or no hop at all. The gun comes with a dummy shell with a lever, you load it into the breech and turn the lever and it adjusts the hop. Pretty slick system. So now, let's talk about how to make this gun actually useful and not just a cool-looking wall-hanger. Firstly, the loading system is the worst part of the gun, by far. Having the lifter go too far down and needing to get the shell almost parallel with the tube before it will go in are the two big offenders. Both are surprisingly simple to fix. To fix the lifter, I glued a small piece of ABS plastic to the lever mechanism, as shown below: When the lifter comes down while the action is open, this piece of plastic is in its path, and arrests its movement, preventing the lifter from going down too far. Once the action is closed, it gets out of the way so the gun can feed. Action closed: Action open: The second problem is with the tube. I don't have any pictures as it's hard to get to, but it turns out there's a small gap between the tube and the frame by design, which is what the follower engages to keep it in the tube. If the shells are being pushed in at an angle, they hit the lip formed by this gap, and won't go in. My solution was to fill this gap with a bit of epoxy putty, then smooth it out with sandpaper. Now I can load shells in at a steeper and less awkward angle. These two changes make the gun much easier to load and fix the main problem with using the gun. Another issue is the power. It's pretty lacking. Thankfully the hammer spring is easy to get to and can be bent or shimmed to give it a bit more power. Piece of cake. And lastly, the shells. Initially I was going to talk about how shells aren't sold separately, but it seems that in the last day Evike has added a 5-pack of shells for $18 to their site (despite telling me last week that they had no plans to do so), so the issue is now less the unavailability of shells and more their cost and 3-BB capacity. Although $3.60 apiece is cheaper than any other airsoft shell I've seen, getting a decent combat load of 30-50 represents an expensive investment, and again, 3 BBs apiece, so might as well just get a tri-shot. My options were to use a drill to open out the stock shells, or to build new ones from scratch. I opted for the latter. These shells are composed of 5/8" ABS tubing, 20ga shotgun hulls, an assortment of steel and nylon washers, and rubber O-rings. They're extremely easy to make, feed and cycle as well as the stock ones, hold 9 BBs apiece (woohoo!), and only cost about a dollar in materials each. If anyone's interested I'd be happy to detail the materials and construction process. Stock and custom shell comparison: And in the gun: One last shot, the final result: A lot of people see shell-ejecting shotguns as unskirmishable gimmicks, but personally I've never had any trouble with my Maruzens, and I'm feeling confident that with these modifications this gun will be a serious contender in CQB. I intend to get some shooting footage as soon as I have the opportuntiy in the next couple of weeks. Hope this was helpful!