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'Aged' AK Plastic Furniture


NegativeCambre

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  • 4 weeks later...

I was really impressed by how yours turned out, NegativeCambre, so I tried to style mine after yours a bit (I don't know why, but the strip of OD tape on the upper handguard really appealed to me especially).

 

Full3.jpg

 

Handguard.jpg

 

Handguard2.jpg

 

Fullcombined.jpg

 

This is my first AEG, UTG AK47 Warhawk (fixed up a bit so it preforms well). Pardon the bayonet, I know it's an m16/m4 one, but I like the thug-AK look, hence the tape. It looks light in the pictures, but it's pretty dark and looks very old and beat up in person, I absolutely love it. It took me a few hours to get it just the way I wanted it... But, I may still touch it up, and make it even darker later.

 

I also employed another technique into mine: singeing the plastic lightly with a barbeque lighter. I wanted some heat damage on my AK as if it was overused and hit with hot led. I got the idea from this video

. You can see where I did it mostly on the corner of the handguard and various small spots. Much easier to see in regular lighting. If you practice a bit on something lame like a springer, you can get the technique down to blackening the plastic and such without making it bubble. You usually want to do this with just the tip of the flame so it just licks the surface for a second or so. Wipe off any blackening, and redo it until it is permanent.

 

Also, I've played through 2 games with bad rain, and it seems to be holding up pretty well so far. This is getting me in the creative mood and I think my next AK projects will making my AK-74 stocks plum colored (easy enough), and doing this marker/nail polish remover technique on my $9 AK springer.

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  • 1 month later...

I'm sorry to bump such an old thread, but I have a few questions before I try this and would really appreciate any help.

1. Did you remove the fake wood furniture before doing this treatment? If so, how did you get the front handguard off - I've looked all around and can't figure it out.

2. Do you scratch and singe the plastic after applying the marker and acetone or before?

3. To the poster above me, did you use lacquer like one of the earlier posters suggested, or is it holding up as well as you said without it?

4. I've got both regular Sharpie and Sharpie Industrial Super Permanent. I was considering using the Industrial one, but I'm worried it might not be affected by the acetone. Anyone ever used this kind of Sharpie?

 

Again, sorry for the bump and I hope I'm not breaking any rules, but I'd really like to try this on my UTG AK-47s. I want something older and beat-up to contrast my clean high-tech Marui P90TR.

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Apparently I'm the one idiot who couldn't get this to work right. I tried with a fresh Sharpie and acetone nail-polish remover. Now my pistol grip looks like well... a piece of plastic someone took a sharpie to and then cleaned off poorly. I'm really not sure what I could've done wrong.

 

So what now? Does anyone happen to know where I can purchase a new pistol grip for it?

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  • 4 weeks later...
Apparently I'm the one idiot who couldn't get this to work right.  I tried with a fresh Sharpie and acetone nail-polish remover.  Now my pistol grip looks like well... a piece of plastic someone took a sharpie to and then cleaned off poorly.  I'm really not sure what I could've done wrong.

 

So what now?  Does anyone happen to know where I can purchase a new pistol grip for it?

Hmmm, well, it sounds like you didnt "smuge" it enough. I ran into the same problem when I was doing that so I had to apply more sharpy and a bit more nail polish remover.

 

Oh, and sorry for bumping this thead, it king of old. :P

 

Update,

 

I tryed this after such a success on my UTG paratrooper (See pics befor this page) so I wanted to try this on my UHC 1911 grips. I found its a bit harder to do when the plastic is textured like my grips. I really had to get the sharpy into the cracks. I will add a pic later.

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