Baxter Posted May 12, 2011 Report Share Posted May 12, 2011 Any way to put the pictures back up?? Been looking for a guide like this, but cant find any good. Link to post Share on other sites
kilo_64 Posted May 13, 2011 Report Share Posted May 13, 2011 What do you need help with? I could walk you through. Shoot me a pm Link to post Share on other sites
Baxter Posted May 13, 2011 Report Share Posted May 13, 2011 Looking for general information on the P226. Just got my first and before i even think about taking it apart, even for maintanance, i want to make sure i know what im doing....otherwise i would be posting here stuff i could have given me the answer myself. But i wil come back to your offer!! :-) Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted May 13, 2011 Report Share Posted May 13, 2011 Here is the TM SIG 226 takedown from a magazine scan I found (the magazine is called The Book of Toyguns Dissasembly). You can google it and maybe find a download link for the complete magazine scans, contains quiet a few disassembly guides that can come in handy. Worth noting when taking down the 226 is that to remove the dissasembly lever, you need to push in a small notch in the inside of the lower frame, which holds the dissasembly lever in place... I missed that and pryed mine out, causing some unwanted play in the part when I put it together again. Hosting on my own web service so can't guarantee it will be up there forever, feel free to rehost. Here are exploded views as well, found on AirsoftCanada (scanned by someone namned "jugglez" I assume from the tags.): Link to post Share on other sites
spirit2 Posted May 20, 2011 Report Share Posted May 20, 2011 Thank you, Stunt! I just finished assembling my 226 last Sunday using this. Without this guide, I would not have had the guts to convert my stock 226 to the Guarder 2010 MBK and it would have certainly ended as a pile of parts. Link to post Share on other sites
chesnok Posted May 25, 2011 Report Share Posted May 25, 2011 Any chance of same thread starring KSC P226? Link to post Share on other sites
amateurstuntman Posted June 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 16, 2011 Somebody send me one and I'll do the thread Link to post Share on other sites
jezworld Posted June 19, 2011 Report Share Posted June 19, 2011 Great guide - although I managed to succesfully transplant all the innards from my Guarder kitted Sig to a rather expensive Prime P228 kitwithout any help. A major feat as Im used to doing Glocks... Has anyone managed to do the Prime conversion and still get a decent trigger action? Ive got to a stage now where the hammer works when you pull the trigger but the action is very very weak (almost a floppy hammer). The trigger doesnt return properly either. Feels a bit crappy. I havent even got to a point where I can test fire this yet - at the moment the thing is practically unusable. I'm wondering whether its an issue with the Prime kit (maybe size difference in length of frame) perhaps. Anyone successfully get their Prime kit to work effectively? Link to post Share on other sites
amateurstuntman Posted June 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2011 I installed a Prime 226 kit on one of mine and it took a lot of fiddling about with the hammer group, trigger bar and trigger group to get it to work smoothly, I also polished the frame rails to a mirror finish. I also did a guide on the "ramp" bit that resets the take down lever détente. Link to post Share on other sites
def-50 Posted October 23, 2011 Report Share Posted October 23, 2011 Hi stunt, your topic is absolutely wonderful but the pictures seem dead. I will appreciate if someone can fix them. Thanks a lot. Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted October 24, 2011 Report Share Posted October 24, 2011 I re-upped the images I hosted previously in my post on this page with the disassembly guides, hope those will help in the meantime. Link to post Share on other sites
def-50 Posted October 25, 2011 Report Share Posted October 25, 2011 I re-upped the images I hosted previously in my post on this page with the disassembly guides, hope those will help in the meantime. Thank you so much, but they didn't help. My problem is not simple enough to solve with this photos. When i look at the frame from above after i take out the slide and get the dissassembly lever to its old position again, i see that little part called P226-44 is not moving freely. Because it is locked by dissassembly lever (P226-60). Also, the trigger is not going its first position after it is pulled and hammer dropped. The hammer spring and hammer mechanism are working fine, but i can't solve what is wrong with trigger group. I need very detailed photos for that. Thanks for your help again. Link to post Share on other sites
BaBaBooey Posted October 25, 2011 Report Share Posted October 25, 2011 Thank you so much, but they didn't help. My problem is not simple enough to solve with this photos. When i look at the frame from above after i take out the slide and get the dissassembly lever to its old position again, i see that little part called P226-44 is not moving freely. Because it is locked by dissassembly lever (P226-60). Also, the trigger is not going its first position after it is pulled and hammer dropped. The hammer spring and hammer mechanism are working fine, but i can't solve what is wrong with trigger group. I need very detailed photos for that. Thanks for your help again. PM a detailed photo of what your front chassis looks like from the top. Also, a photo of the frame (the right side) where the trigger bar connects to the shear. You might have your trigger lock safety engaged with an improperly installed trigger bar. Link to post Share on other sites
def-50 Posted October 25, 2011 Report Share Posted October 25, 2011 PM a detailed photo of what your front chassis looks like from the top. Also, a photo of the frame (the right side) where the trigger bar connects to the shear. You might have your trigger lock safety engaged with an improperly installed trigger bar. I will do it as soon as i go back home, which is in next week. Actually, i think the trigger bar is properly installed. Because my pistol have been working perfectly for almost a year. Suddenly this problem showed up last month, i hope it is a fixable thing. Thank you very much for your advice, i will get the photo. By the way, i have a question about one of your P226 pictures. As i remember, you have an airsoft P226 with old diamond grips. Did you install your RS pistol's grips to airsoft one? Or, is there any place selling those grips? Thank you again. Link to post Share on other sites
BaBaBooey Posted October 25, 2011 Report Share Posted October 25, 2011 I will do it as soon as i go back home, which is in next week. Actually, i think the trigger bar is properly installed. Because my pistol have been working perfectly for almost a year. Suddenly this problem showed up last month, i hope it is a fixable thing. Thank you very much for your advice, i will get the photo. By the way, i have a question about one of your P226 pictures. As i remember, you have an airsoft P226 with old diamond grips. Did you install your RS pistol's grips to airsoft one? Or, is there any place selling those grips? Thank you again. Yes, I have checkered grips from an stamped steel SIG P226. I'm not certain if there is an airsoft version; Hogue makes a checkered grip that looks the same. I don't think the Hogue grips have the date codes inside the grips, but I'm also not sure if all SIG grips had date codes. The modifications might depend on the type of frame you have - I had to carve out some material on the right panel to make it fit. Link to post Share on other sites
Kingmob3 Posted October 26, 2011 Report Share Posted October 26, 2011 guys, I'm having a bit of trouble with my sig. I replaced the valve knocker and everything seems to work except part #61 does not engage with the hammer- it's limp and does not reset. This leaves the valve knocker out and binds up the trigger. if any one can post photos of each side with the grips off, and how the main spring is supposed to engage it would be great. KM Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted October 26, 2011 Report Share Posted October 26, 2011 Sounds like you've seated the hammer strut wrong. Look at the take down guide i posted, pics 1 and 2 in the first JPEG. The top notch of the hammer strut needs to seat onto the cylinder inside the hammer as shown in pic 2. Also make sure the strut goes into the main spring housing and spring properly. I usually insert the hammer strut correctly first, flip the gun upside down and then install the main spring housing... Link to post Share on other sites
Kingmob3 Posted October 26, 2011 Report Share Posted October 26, 2011 Helped a bunch, thanks. I also had the spring that lifts the trigger bar going through the hole. Why does TM put holes where there shouldn't be any? KM Link to post Share on other sites
def-50 Posted November 11, 2011 Report Share Posted November 11, 2011 PM a detailed photo of what your front chassis looks like from the top. Also, a photo of the frame (the right side) where the trigger bar connects to the shear. You might have your trigger lock safety engaged with an improperly installed trigger bar. http://s1080.photobucket.com/albums/j332/def-50/ Link to post Share on other sites
BaBaBooey Posted November 11, 2011 Report Share Posted November 11, 2011 http://s1080.photobucket.com/albums/j332/def-50/ You trigger safety bar is installed upside down so your pistol is permanently in safe. Flip and you should be ok. Let me know if you want photos of how it should be installed. Another option is just to completely disable the safety feature...not many people know about it and use it anyways. Link to post Share on other sites
def-50 Posted November 11, 2011 Report Share Posted November 11, 2011 You trigger safety bar is installed upside down so your pistol is permanently in safe. Flip and you should be ok. Let me know if you want photos of how it should be installed. Another option is just to completely disable the safety feature...not many people know about it and use it anyways. Which one is the trigger safety bar? There is no need for photos, but i appreciate if you tell which one it is. Link to post Share on other sites
BaBaBooey Posted November 11, 2011 Report Share Posted November 11, 2011 This part - it's upside down. It also puts the trigger bar out of position causing more problems. Flip it over and it should fix your problem. Link to post Share on other sites
def-50 Posted November 12, 2011 Report Share Posted November 12, 2011 This part - it's upside down. It also puts the trigger bar out of position causing more problems. Flip it over and it should fix your problem. I flipped it but it didn't solve my problem. Still the trigger is not going its first position after it is pulled and hammer dropped. I think a spring is broken or dislocated. So, what can i do now? Link to post Share on other sites
BaBaBooey Posted November 12, 2011 Report Share Posted November 12, 2011 Keep the front chassis assembly installed and remove the entire rear assembly. Check if the trigger still sticks. Link to post Share on other sites
def-50 Posted November 25, 2011 Report Share Posted November 25, 2011 Keep the front chassis assembly installed and remove the entire rear assembly. Check if the trigger still sticks. Can you be more clear? Should i remove the hammer group and keep the trigger? Link to post Share on other sites
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