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KJW M9 frame as well.


Wege

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:P

 

direct cut n paste too...

 

 

Tokyo Marui Tacmaster/ M9 - Pull it apart and put it back together.

Or Why do I Bother?

Tools required :

1x 10mm flat head screwdriver

1x #3 flat head screw driver

1x small (sub-1mm) punch or awl

1x #1 Phillips head (as found in jeweller's sets)

Needle nose pliers

Angle tweezers

Hard rubber or hard plastic hammer

Cloth (for wiping items clean)

Silicon spray

Clean and clear area

Plenty of nice white light.

Patience

Exploded diagram of your TM M9/92f style GBB

This guide.

 

Note: Read it all first, before sitting down and pulling things apart.

http://www.wgcshop.com/gun-folder/marui-m9-install.htm

Use this image ^^^^^^^^^^^^^ as a guide, in case you have no manual with you.

 

Now Class, the lesson begins... Now

http://img437.imageshack.us/img437/423/kjwm9013nl.jpg

Take the magazine out.

Use the take-down lever on the left side of the frame to remove the slide.

Put the slide to one side.

http://img437.imageshack.us/img437/3411/kjwm9021pu.jpg

 

Lay the Beretta down on it's left side and now take off the right-side grip.

Please be carefull with a small piece of wire located directly underneath the grip, and jammed into the Trigger bar.

You NEED this wire, and you won't find one easily, unless you make one yourself.

http://img437.imageshack.us/img437/1684/kjwm9056ps.jpg

http://img437.imageshack.us/img437/7386/kjwm9069qp.jpg

http://img437.imageshack.us/img437/7271/kjwm9077ll.jpg

Take the trigger-bar spring out, and lay it carefully to one side, perhaps attached to a magnet.

Pull the trigger back, and now you can wedge out the trigger bar.

http://img437.imageshack.us/img437/8992/kjwm9085dr.jpg

http://img437.imageshack.us/img437/4399/kjwm9099ge.jpg

Turn the Beretta over so it is lying on it's right side now.

Fiddly bit ahead.

Take off the left-side grip.

Be carefull with the slide-stop and it's associated spring.

http://img437.imageshack.us/img437/672/kjwm9041jn.jpg

http://img437.imageshack.us/img437/7676/kjwm9037bl.jpg

Have a look at the spring and rotate it so you can see where the straight bit (of the spring) is supposed to go when it is installed on the Beretta, with the slide lock.

Put these two pieces next to the trigger bar and spring.

 

At this point, look at the magazine release. This can be pulled out. When you come to re-assemble the Beretta, you can also reverse the position of the magazine release, which is good for left handed peoples.

 

Next thing to come out, will be the take down lever itself. You need to remove this part to remove the trigger-frame. If you don't need to get to the trigger and hammer, then do not worry about this step.

What you do is depress the button located on the right side of the frame, but instead of turning the left-side lever to the left, (part TM-6), rotate it counter-clockwise. You will see that it will now come out, as will the button you just depressed (92B-58) as will the spring (92B-59). Hopefully these will be still together, unless you have a KJW in which case they will be almost negative attraction! Put these three pieces somewhere safe and tidy.

http://img437.imageshack.us/img437/6500/kjwm9108uo.jpg

 

Now, some pins to remove. I work from the top of the frame, to the bottom, taking the big pin out last. If you need to just remove the lanyard loop, you only need to remove that last big pin (part 92B-54)

http://img437.imageshack.us/img437/267/kjwm9130vx.jpg

http://img437.imageshack.us/img437/745/kjwm9117cc.jpg

http://img437.imageshack.us/img437/7316/kjwm9127jj.jpg (note the broken lanyard point here.. icky)

 

Ease the hammer spring housing out, as it is under tension from the hammer spring itself. Don't pull the lanyard piece out unless you have to.

 

*Note for KJW metal frame owners.*

If you have a KJW full metal version, you will find that there are only 2 pins through the frame (92B-55 and 92B-56), and no trigger spring housing (part 92B-52).

The only thing keeping in the hammer spring is going to be 92B-54, so please do not damage or lose it.

You can now undo that flat head screw you can see and enable you to pull the hammer/trigger frame out of the plastic outer frame. Put the hammer into the upright or relaxed position (activate the sear and push upwards/forwards on the hammer). This eases tension on spring 92B-50 and can enable the metal frame to come out of the plastic frame with far greater ease. This is another spring that can pop out at an awkward moment.

http://img437.imageshack.us/img437/2690/kjwm9148ib.jpg

http://img437.imageshack.us/img437/1740/kjwm9161md.jpg

http://img437.imageshack.us/img437/2813/kjwm9167oa.jpg

 

http://img437.imageshack.us/img437/6733/kjwm9150ak.jpg

http://img437.imageshack.us/img437/4185/kjwm9173ui.jpg

Now that your inner frame is exposed, just pause up a moment. If you need to just swap it into a different frame, then you can stop right here, and work backwards. If your trigger spring has broken, as apparently the Beretta M9, 92Fs and Tacmasters are prone to do, then you have to carry on going.

 

Have a look at the pieces and how they are in relation to each other. Note the position of spring 92B-42 and how the tip(top of the spring) goes into that little square hole through 92B-41.

*FIDDLY POINT HERE*

Now then, remove the phillips head screws, remembering that the smallest one goes into the hole closest to the hammer.

 

Carefull ease the frame apart, and you will now find that the hammer has moved out of position, the hammer pin (#41) and spring (#42) have also moved.

Do not panic. Do not worry. Yet.

kjwm9217ik.jpg

 

Try not to disturb the trigger and trigger spring if you do not have to replace it. Just take a look at it; how the spring (92B-35) is sitting on the trigger (92B-34) and where the trigger spring end rests on the frame (92B-33).

 

Also have a look at how the Sear (92B-45) and spring (92B-44) are attached to each other. Also note the spring as it would normally be on just the hammer. See how the spring rests inside that hollow in the hammer?

http://img437.imageshack.us/img437/8462/kjwm9199pv.jpg

http://img437.imageshack.us/img437/2622/kjwm9189pa.jpg

 

Now, without worrying about how things actually work, take out spring #42 and lay it aside. This is going to be a trial run for re-connecting the trigger-frame.

 

http://img447.imageshack.us/img447/3268/kjwm9221ob.jpg

http://img447.imageshack.us/img447/7046/kjwm9234re.jpg

http://img447.imageshack.us/img447/2144/kjwm9242xw.jpg

 

Put the hammer pin back into its little slot in the frame (it looks like a small depression/notch. If you look at the side of the frame you removed, you will see a notch/depression in the same place on that too). Now, put part 92B-46 back into the correct position, and try to close up the frame. You may need your fine awl or punch to just jiggle things (springs etc) into their correct places.

 

Pull it apart, and repeat one or two times. Take note of the areas that may have issues when re-attaching both halves of the trigger-frame assembly.

 

Now that your confidence is raised, here is the fun time - re-attaching the hammer-pin spring and hammer-pin, and keeping them in place while closing the frame.

I cannot tell you how to hold it in place, as I am right handed, and I just 'did' it. Suffice to say, that you have to get that spring (which you have now put back into the hammer, haven't you ) threaded into that little square hole that is in the hammer pin (part#41.. in case you hadn't remembered)

You will feel as though you want 3 hands or a few more fingers, but really.. it is only fiddly.

 

When you are closing the trigger/hammer frame back up, don't just jam it into place, but close it, and then see where you have not closed it properly (remember those practise runs? Well, the problem is going to probably be where you noticed it then.) Get a fine pointed tool and just ease the various bits around, and into place. Then VOILA!!!!!! The frame is back together. Put the middle screw (part#92B-48), and do it up gently and NOT all the way. Now, insert the other two screws, and do them up till they are a bit tight. Go back to the middle. Carry on tightening a bit more. Then the other two screws. Hey presto! It's back together.

 

Now you can re-attached spring (hopefully still undamaged) 92B-50 with the little prong sticking up.

 

When you replace the trigger frame back into the main frame (the pistol shaped frame!) take note to pull the trigger back about 1/2 way or so, to get the trigger part back through the frame. Try putting the two pieces together first, and you will see what I mean.

 

Well, that was not that hard was it? Just do it all up in reverse..... with one exception.

 

When you go to put the trigger bar back in, take note to have the hammer fully cocked. (This tip brought to you by the letter T and the Arnie's user "Duff Beer") NOW you can put the trigger bar in and put the trigger-bar spring in. Re-attach the right side grip, and do a few Double Action test fires. Is the hammer being pulled back each and every time? Good. and carry on with re-assembling the other side. You other folks, well, take the trigger-bar spring back out, and the trigger-bar itself. Try this step over again. Make sure the hammer has been cocked and it should work.

 

Put the take-down lever back in, put the slide stop back in, the magazine release back, and carefully put the left grip back on. It may help to keep the whole unit horizontal, put your finger into the magazine well to hold the magazine release in place, and then put the left grip on. It does get easier with familiarity. Now you can put the slide back on. Rack the slide. 'Fire' it (nothing should happen because no magazine is in... Right?) and just see that things are happening as they should.

 

Take a warmed up (body temperature) magazine, and put it in. Try to fire it. It should now work.

 

All is good.

 

Note: This has not taken into account the slide. I am too tired and I may write that up later. I would prefer to put pics in as well (with this) to assist and show visually what I mean, however, no tripod, a rubbish early Minolta digicam (that they never even fully supported.. see if they get any more money from me... tards...) and a lack of an extra person to take the pictures while I am demonstrating all conspires to not have piccies. This piece was started before the other M9/92F posts, but only now have I got around to finishing it.

 

Ah well. Hope this was of help.

 

Wege

 

Edit.. a pair of slightly angled tweezers assisted MASSIVELY for when I re-assembled the hammer/spring/frame stage. I was able to hold the spring down in a slight notch (that does become obvious when you are putting it together. I was able to do it in the first go, and in under a minute

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As an after comment.

 

I had to install a new trigger spring into a TM M9, and I note that the arm alignment of the King Arms trigger spring (from their 92fs spring set) is slightly out from that of the KJW and TM trigger spring arms.

It makes it a bit harder (and more swearing) to install, is all.

 

Just lettin you know.

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