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A few questions regarding a TM G17


Chris North

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I want to install a PGC metal slide and barrel set onto my G17 soon, but I've never installed a metal slide before. I have a bit of experience with GBBs, and I've taken my G17 down to the bare slide already, so I don't think that it should be too difficult.

 

Firstly, how do you remove the inner barrel from the outer barrel? Would I have to completely take apart the hop up assembly? If so, how big of a chance is there that something might get screwed up?

 

Is the PGC set a drop in fit?

 

I'll need a new recoil spring correct? Will the steel recoil spring guide and hammer spring set made by Guarder work? If not, what will?

 

What does the ejection lever (?) part do? I know what it does on a real Glock, but why is it separate instead of just fixed like on the other airsoft Glocks? Does it move or something?

 

How do you remove the mag catch?

 

There's some Japanese writing on the side of the slide, behind the ejection port. Would anyone happen to know what that is?

 

Lastly, I was wondering if I am using the night sites correctly. I charge them up under a desk lamp for a minute or so, but they only last 20 minutes before becoming really dim.

 

+1s for everyone that helps. :lol:

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I want to install a PGC metal slide and barrel set onto my G17 soon, but I've never installed a metal slide before.  I have a bit of experience with GBBs, and I've taken my G17 down to the bare slide already, so I don't think that it should be too difficult.

It won't. To take that extra step, you'll just need a Phillips screwdriver and a file or sandpaper. Or just a Leatherman tool.

 

Firstly, how do you remove the inner barrel from the outer barrel?  Would I have to completely take apart the hop up assembly?  If so, how big of a chance is there that something might get screwed up?

You need to wiggle it out. It's a bit more tricky than on the KSC Glocks. Getting the IB assembly into the PGC outer required using the cleaning rod as a guide to get the inner barrel through to the narrow part in the front.

 

Is the PGC set a drop in fit? 

Mine required sanding the top ridge and right side of the loading nozzle for smooth action. Other than that it was drop in and has a good fit to the frame.

 

I'll need a new recoil spring correct?  Will the steel recoil spring guide and hammer spring set made by Guarder work?  If not, what will?
Well, you won't exactly need it, but it's good to have. I got the Guarder set from Redwolf, and installed the hammer spring as well. That thing is tough to get in, but increases muzzle velocity a bit. The biggest benefit is preventing light strikes in hot weather. The recoil spring improved the cycling speed somewhat, and generally the pistol is a good performer. I'm giving people with fully pimped 2011's a run for their money in Airsoft Practical shootings.

 

What does the ejection lever (?) part do?  I know what it does on a real Glock, but why is it separate instead of just fixed like on the other airsoft Glocks?  Does it move or something?

 

How do you remove the mag catch?

It's the extractor, and it's a separate part in this slide to make it look more realistic. The other ones look "molded in". Also, the slide has an old style gray finish to the slide (the latest real Glocks are shiny black), but the extractor is black. The mag catch should come out just by bending the spring visible in the mag well (looking from the top) to clear the part.

 

There's some Japanese writing on the side of the slide, behind the ejection port.  Would anyone happen to know what that is? 

It's not Japanese. It's Glocks markings for pistols sold elsewhere than in the US. You'll find the same symbols on the right side of the chamber (at least on the original plastic parts, which I have here now).

 

Lastly, I was wondering if I am using the night sites correctly.  I charge them up under a desk lamp for a minute or so, but they only last 20 minutes before becoming really dim.

Use a SureFire or sunlight and you won't need more than a few seconds for a bright glow. But you need tritiums if you really want good night sights. I kept the original sights on my TM Glock.

 

+1s for everyone that helps. :lol:
I had quite a few of them... But maybe these jokes about getting reputation will help me get over the loss.

 

-Sale

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I'm having a few problems now. I don't know what happened, but yesterday, I left the slide locked open for an hour while on my desk. I'm not quite sure what happened, but my brother picked the gun up and attempted to close the slide it wouldn't. I believe what happened was that the hammer fell while the slide was open, and prevented the slide form closing. So I tried to push it down or let the blowback unit ride over it with a piece of a card. I'm not sure that it helped, but I eventually was able to close it. After that the trigger pull is really gritty and sticks. I lubed it, and I thought that the problem would eventually go away.

 

Today, however, I noticed that I could pull the trigger and get the hammer to fall while the slide was opened. I tried doing the thing I did yesterday with the card, but so far no luck.

 

So what's going on? I didn't do anything to my knowledge to cause this. Is it possible to fix? How should I get the slide to retract?

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You must be missing some parts inside the pistol. It's simply impossible for the hammer to fall when the slide is back.

 

When the slide locks, try to push the trigger forward. I have a modified trigger mechanism in mine, so I can't say how the original ones behave with the PGC slide. I have thought of a fix for this, but haven't been aware that it could be possible even with a regular trigger mech.

 

-Sale

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The trigger's completely forward, and it won't move back, either. I haven't purchased the PGC set yet, nor have I disassembled the trigger/hammer mech. Is there any possibility that the little nub (that sticks out of the hammer setup) on the bar that connects the trigger to the hammer mech (all part G26-36 was worn down or bent?

 

Aha! I was able to bend the plastic slide slightly to get it just high enough off the rails to get it over whatever was obstructing it. I'm a little tired though (I was actually planning on seeing if anyone had replied to the topic and going to sleep), and I can't remember if the hammer was cocked or not. I pulled the slide back due to habit to get the slide off, so I don't recall whether there was a cocking noise or not.

 

Edit again: The hammer falling does not seem to be the problem. I've removed both the barrel and recoil guide from the slide and mounted it on the frame to see what was going on. It seems the part I mentioned earlier (G26-36) is what's obstructing the slide from closing, because it sticks out in front of the blowback mech, which obviously shouldn't be happening. Possibly, the first time this happened it was something else that caused the problem, then when I was trying to get the slide to close I was being a bit too rough and bent the part, which would also explain the "gritty" feel. I'm not quite 95% sure just yet though.

 

And 30 seconds later, I'm now almost sure that it's the source of the problem. I have to pull the trigger a very small amount (just to the break point) for the little piece to pop up. I'm going to look at it a bit more.

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There's a Shooters Design one out at Redwolf too. I'm not sure if there is more than one.

 

Would anyone be willing to take a few pics of the hammer mech while it's in the frame from the top, and a pic of the blowback unit viewed from the bottom of the slide? I would really appreciate it.

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Chris, I have the exact same problem as you, but I thought it was because of a certain modification I made to the firing mechanism. It seems that this can happen even in out of the box condition, so I'll look into a fix.

 

It is the part G26-36, which sticks too high up from the firing mechanism. It engages part G17-8. You can get the slide to close in these cases by pressing G26-36 down from the ejection port, but ease the slide forward or you'll get a slide bite to your finger. Another option is to smack the heel of the grip hard. I did that today during a stage and still won, so that problem was quick enough to clear. Luckily it never happens during shooting, because the trigger is back when the slide cycles.

 

Lance: Why would you want a metal mag catch? I do about 300 magazine changes per week and haven't noticed any noticeable wear on the mag catch. I got the pistol when it was released.

 

-Sale

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Okay, I figured this problem out. I fixed my Glock and another one today.

 

It seems that for some reason, the disconnector fin of the trigger bar (G26-36) got bent forward. The bend is visible when you look at the trigger bar from the side. It's where the bar makes an S-turn, which you can see from the top.

 

To fix the problem, I simply grabbed the top fin with pliers and bent it back. Now the fin is more towards the rear in the trigger forward -position. The slide doesn't travel far enough to let the trigger bar rise in front of the blowback frame (G17-8).

 

-Sale

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That worked, but I think I still haven't gotten it perfectly bent in the right position yet as the trigger pull is still a little rough. :)

 

Do you think that the part was bent from just regular usage? The fin was fairly difficult to bend, so I don't see how, and with all the months Marui must have put into R&D on this thing, it doesn't seem possible that its just a design flaw.

 

Also if you don't mind me asking, what did you do to your trigger mech?

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